Paint??

[Wingnut1956]

I'm rehabbing a V17, on a budget. Has anyone used Rustoleum Marine paint? Were you satisfied with the product? How well did it hold up?
Thanks

[vizwhiz]

If you type "rustoleum" in the search box in the upper right corner of the website, you'll find quite a few threads from boat owners here who have used it on their boats. Most say it was successful, but you don't give much detail... Are you painting the topsides? The bottom? The interior? Please tell us a little more and share some pics of this new project!

[Herschel]

I have used rustoleum marine paint on my 10 ft O'Day Sprite dinghy.I used the topside paint to do the inside. I would say it gave reasonable service for about two years. Then, it began flaking and wearing off. I bought it then because it was inexpensive and handy. I picked it up at Lowe's. This summer I ground down and sanded the interior and did some fiberglass cloth and epoxy repair and strengthening. I, then, repainted the interior with with two coats of a two stage epoxy primer (Epoxy PrimeKote 404) from Interlux and added three coats of a polyurethane top coat from Pettit (Easypoxy). Wow! What a difference! I think the added expense and effort has really made a difference in the look of the interior. I will be very surprised, if it doesn't also wear much better, too. So, I would say the Rustoleum would be OK for a quick and dirty spruce up, but I will certainly go with the good stuff for major efforts in the future. Here are two pictures of my recent paint job with the Interlux/Pettit combo.

[81venture]

I've used Regular Rustoleum oil based enamel on boats for years

Would not recommend it for a slip kept boat. A trailered boat would be fine.

I have not had any issues with paint fade or flake to date.

If you're on a budget it will work fine. Some of the boats in my thread were painted with rustoleum and there are pics where you can see it turned out fine.

Dave

[Wingnut1956]

Thanks for the input. Based on your information and other research I've done, I'm going to bite the bullit and use pettit Easypoxy.

[bahama bound]

Man I have used it on everything from a 14 John boat to a canoe to a 26 foot crownline .i even used it on the metal awnings on my house .i love the stuff . I am rebuilding the diesel in my Catalina and painting the bilge with it now ! I have always found it easy to work with and never had it to peel or flake .i even painted my wife's horse trailer with it .the John boat and canoe and even the horse trailer still look great and its been years since I painted them .i think its only like 12 bucks a quart here at lowes .this is the MARINE rustoleum ....

[Ixneigh]

I use the interlux one part polyurethane paint. It holds up well, esp. If you wax it once in a while. It should be sprayed, or rolled and tipped. If you brush it, expect less then stellar but still serviceable finish.
Ix

[dale4643]

I have a 85 Mac 22 was looking at bottom paint for my trailered boat that did not break me especially since I beach the boat alot and would probably would be touching it up or redoing it again soon....also had a cast iron keel that I needed to get painted and protected. The professional options of "doing it right" looked like just as much work but WAY more expensive.
So I started doing a lot of research, called Rustoleum numerous times...did alot more research, ask around the marinas and came to a conclusion. Rustoleum Pro line paint found in Home Depot, Lowes, Sears etc. MIXED PROPERLY with an acrylic paint hardner (found in tractor supply stores) was the way to go. NOW This is just as important....in any type of painting on any material in any situation PREP WORK MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE! It's been on there since March of this year and that stuff is tough! I beach the thing and don't see anything I even need to touch up. My keel looks like the day I painted it! Here is a thread to read and follow some of the links in the thread. http://fiberglassics.com/fiberglassics- ... boat-paint Follow the directions and formulas... these guys been doing this for years. I say if its tough enough for a snow plow it's tough enough for my bottom paint. Our boat is in the water 2-3 days almost every week...Btw were in Oklahoma with cold, heat and high humidity. BTW I roll tipped

[Wingnut1956]

Im almost finished removing two or three layers of bottom paint, scraping and sanding. I've put countless numbers of gouges in the gelcoat and I'm wondering if I should repaint with gelcoat or just fair the hull with epoxy, and then repaint with bottom paint?

[u12fly]

Im almost finished removing two or three layers of bottom paint, scraping and sanding. I've put countless numbers of gouges in the gelcoat and I'm wondering if I should repaint with gelcoat or just fair the hull with epoxy, and then repaint with bottom paint?

I would definitely go with a layer of epoxy and then put on the bottom paint if you plan to leave it in the water more than a few weeks at a spell. The gelcoat will not buy you anything. Make sure you fully de-grease the sanded surface before you paint, there are waxes in the finish from the construction process that will affect the "stick" of your paint over time.

[Wind Chime]

What’s the difference between;
a) Rustoleum “Marine”
b) Rustoleum “Tremclad”

I have always use the regular Rustoleum Tremclad (Home Depot) for touch-ups on the steel trailer, would the “Marine” version of this product be better for this?

[bahama bound]

Never used tremclad .....the marine is a really slick self leveling paint .it is good stuff .its great for rusty metal .said was developed to paint commercial steel fishing vessels on the west coast .

[Wingnut1956]

Thanks U 12fly. It's my understanding that acetone is a good dewaxer, it flashes fast and leaves the surface read for paint?

[seahouse]

Yeah – good advice, a barrier coat of epoxy is the proper way to do this, and also to ensure good adhesion of the next top coats. Paint does not stick really well (as well as epoxy anyway) chemically to gel coat, and the epoxy barrier is also an ideal primer as it sticks really well to both.

If you're going to do it, it's important to degrease before you sand, not the other way around, as sanding will drive the waxes deeper into the surface and make it difficult (or nearly impossible) to remove later. A finer point, some would say, but it might also save someone from posting in 12 months asking us why their paint is not sticking. (Written in good spirit; not being sarcastic here).

But on an older hull, and considering there might be lower budget to just get by with for now, maybe none of this is an issue.

-B.

[seahouse]

Thanks U 12fly. It's my understanding that acetone is a good dewaxer, it flashes fast and leaves the surface read for paint?

Acetone should do the job on surfaces that are compatible with it. There are solvents specifically made to dissolve mold release and waxes. The one I have on hand that I used successfully (Interlux 202 Fibreglass Solvent Wash*) has no acetone in it, but you want something that will not "eat" gel coat with it (which could potentially be even worse than sanding the wax into the surface); I'm not sure if it will or not. It will readily dissolve and dilute the polyester resin before it is cured, but I expect that old gel coat would be OK with acetone.

To be safe and certain, try some acetone (with a black rag on "clean" white gel coat) and see if you get any of the gel coat white coming off onto it in amounts that suggest it's being partly dissolved. If you don't then you're good to go with it.

-B.

*it lists methyl isobutyl ketone and cyclohexanone as its ingredients. (It took less than a quart to do my hull, and I was liberal with it). The instructions on the can say that it is important to clean old gel coat with it for good adhesion too. So apparently old waxes and release agents do stick around over time. Maybe because of the porosity of gel coat.