Hard to steer with Rudders down

[JJ]

Another newby question:

I have a 2003 26M. I noticed that when I put the rudders down the steering became very hard. I believe it may be because I have not placed the rudders (trimmed?) in the correct position?

When lowering the rudders- Do you simply drop them into the water or do you tie them so they stay in the down position? My understanding is that they simply fill with water to keep them in the down position?

[DLT]

Tie them down.

If you let them, they will trail back a bit, GREATLY increasing the forces required to turn, which of course is bad for the whole system.

They have little adjustment screws, where you can fine tune them. But, as long as they are reasonably vertical (as a new owner) you're probably best off just leaving them alone for now.

But, yes, tie them down...

They do fill with water, somewhat, but it isn't enough to keep them down when you're moving...

The best advice is when you're going to motor fast, pull all three boards up. But, when you're sailing or motoring slowly, put all three boards down.

The dagger board can only be secured in the up position. The weight of the water keeps it down. But, the rudders should always be secured, either all the way up, out of the water, or all the way down.

[March]

You need to tie them down, or else they would stream backwards and "fight you." Also, if you motor the boat forward and backward (as in trying to get it alligned with the trailer) turning the rudders hard might get them in the way of the propellor, if they're not tied down, and you can nick them badly

[Catigale]

It is really important to tie them back (that is, the rudders positioned as far to the front of the boat) as firmly as you can. I sailed all first season without doing this and am amazed I didnt break something.

[kmclemore]

What they said.

I'll only add that some folks like to use bungee cords to hold their rudders down instead of just tying them off. This helps prevent the rudders being damaged, since in the event that they strike something they have some flexibility to kick up. See here (with pictures) or here or here or here.

The other alternative is to use Duane Dunn's method of trapping the down-haul line under the aft cleat, wherein it can pull free under excessive stress from striking an object:

There is a simple wrapping technique that works well. String your lines so the hold down line passes through the hole under the cleat between the two bolts.

To lock down, pull the line tight through the hole, then take what is the tail of the slack lift up end and wrap it around the cleat under the horns 2 or 3 times (not the hold down line as it exits the hole in the cleat and not the crisscross wrap normally used on a cleat.). There should still be a loop of the hold down line free and loose. This binds the hold down line under the cleat providing enough friction to keep the rudder down, yet if you really hit something the line can run back through the hole in the cleat letting the rudder kick up.

Also, if you are cleated down hard and hit something the theory is that the lower black bulls eye on the transom will tear out (don't ever replace it with a mettal eye one). It's suppose to be the weakest link in the system and the easiest to repair.

[KEVIN'S OWN]

You're supposed to tie the rudders down when under sail? Don't you just untie them from the cleats and drop them into the water? I'm confused.

[delevi]

You're supposed to tie the rudders down when under sail? Don't you just untie them from the cleats and drop them into the water? I'm confused.

You cleat them off to remain in either the up or down position. Use one end of the line to cleat them off while up. Use the other end of the line when you lower them to get them fully vertical and secure to the horn cleat so they stay that way when under sail or powering at low speeds. Basically, the rudders need to be tied off at all times to remain either up or down.

[KEVIN'S OWN]

Thanks delevi, will have to take a better look next week when we are over getting the boat ready for the 2nd season!

[DLT]

Bottom line - The rudders should always be secured, either up or down...

I've not used Duane's method, but will give it a try...

[kmclemore]

You're supposed to tie the rudders down when under sail? Don't you just untie them from the cleats and drop them into the water? I'm confused.

Yes, if you don't cleat them in the fully-down position you run a serious risk of causing damage. Either the rudders may pop up into your spinning propeller if the motor is on, or you can crack or break the rudder mounting parts because they will be overstressed if you try to turn the boat with them not fully down.

[pokerrick1]

DITTO ABSOLUTELY AGREED Always tie the rudders down securely. My dealer was quite strong on that point when on our shakedown cruise. Failure to tie them down is probably your entire steering problem - - - you won't believe the difference

Rick

[JJ]

Thanks. This makes a lot of sense. I think the rudders must have been trialing behind me which made it very hard to turn.

Hope to be sailing tomorrow, and I will tie em down!!!

[Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL]

I wrap the rudder hold-down line around the cleat in a loop, not a figure-eight.
If the rudder hits something, it will work itself loose without breaking something.
I know.

[NiceAft]

I have always tied the rudders down securely. This is the first I have heard of the method used by Duane Dunn and Bill at boats 4 sail. I will definitely try this out.

Ray

[beene]

I use Bill's method, as per his advice.

It has worked well for me.

G