below are the assembly of the brakes. Eventually I wil make a nice tidy web page with all the info how to do it..but for now, this should work if anyone wants to tackle this. Then again, if you have any mechanical skills, you won't need this. Nothing strange here.
Ths is the correct rotor. It came in all metal, not painted like the incorrect one that I posted earlier. I took some time and cleaned it quite well, and painted it with some chassis epoxy paint. Should be durable..if it can take the heat. If not..what can ya do? They do have brake paint. I didnt have any of that on hand
greased the rear bearing, put it in the race in the back, now going to tap in the rear seal. Spring side in. Place a wood block over the seal, hit with hammer carefully. Walk it down, it is a tight fit. I put a lot of grease inside this area to ensure enough coverage when putting it on the axle
Seal driven home
Rotor/hub placed on the axle, outer bearing installed, well greased to fill the cavity.
rest of the parts installed. tighten down to zero clearance. Spin hub to ensure it seats in both bearings. rock back and forth to ensure it is done right. CHeck the rear to ensure the seal is on axle properly. DO NOT over tighten!!
Cap installed over nut, cotter pin installed. Do not forget cap. This will ensure the nut doesnt slip
Pack the bearing protector almost full of grease (leave some room in it). Hit home the bearing protector, using a block of wood. rotate 180 degrees between blows until the bearing protector bottoms out in the ridge.
The following pics show how to test to see if enough grease is in the hub. Press on the blue edge. The cover should move...if it does not ..add grease..if it does..it is good. If you forget..read the cap
Old and new pads. Old pads are pretty worn. With new rotors being installed, it is worth the $12 or so a wheel to replace the pads while the brakes are apart
caliper bracket socket - 3/8 hex
Caliper bolts 7mm
installing - back view
bracket mounted
pads installed - make sure u push the caliper piston back into the caliper to fit on the rotor. I used a C-clamp, opened the brake bleeder, put a hose on the bleeder to catch the extra brake fluid. I closed the c-clamp on the piston carefully..pressed the piston back..the extra fluid got forced out the hose into the catch can. Once the piston was most of the way back, the pads were able to clear the rotor.
caliper bolt being installed wiggle the caliper in the bracket to line it up. Tighten up snug..not overly so though.
Calipers installed
Another view
Done - clip installed on pads, grease/dust cap installed. Note the cap has instructions to check the grease level by pressing on an edge.
Wheel installed with 5 new lugnuts on lightly lubricated lugs. hand torque to 90#
Thats all there is to it. I put a lot of steps in...but it is not a big deal.
Paul
