Rudder Repair! Learning new skillz

[LordElsinore]

I remember reading a warning somewhere that if you disconnect the motor from the rudder steering, you need to make sure the rudders are locked down if you run your motor. Well, I was in a really shallow lake and didn't want to risk running my rudders into the bottom, and guess what I did:



Yeah, took a chunk out of a rudder. At least that's how I assume it happened.

Thankfully I had already been binge watching the excellent fiberglass repair videos from Boatworks Today. You can buy a new rudder from BWY, but with shipping etc its about $500. I figured if I own an out-of-production fiberglass boat, I'd better learn some fiberglassing skills. I had never done fiberglassing before.

So far it's going really well and I'm happy with it. Sanded down the area (excuse to get a new orbital sander!), ordered some fiberglass supplies, laid up a few layers and it's looking pretty good so far.

Here's a picture after doing a few layers and before sanding it down to shape



After sanding it down a bit, I think it looks pretty good:




I'm about to start the gel coat, and almost decided to be lazy and just do pure white out of the can, but then I figured I might as well try and learn the color matching process that Andy (Boatworks Today) discusses in some of his other videos, so I have some gelcoat tint coming later today. I plan to do some fairing and apply gel coat this weekend.

My point of all this is simply to say that you can do this! I feel a lot more comfortable as a MacGregor owner knowing that I can repair my boat if it gets a crack or dent or hole in it. I think it's a worthwhile investment to learn. My next project will be to repair some of the gashes in the daggerboard that I've seen. And in the spring I think I will tackle some of the minor dings, scratches, and gouges that are on the hull.

[Jimmyt]

Coming along nicely! Thanks for posting.

[Russ]

Nice. And encouraging.

I snagged an underwater cable with my daggerboard. I'm afraid to lift it out because I'm sure there is damage.

With your post, I may feel braver to pull it out and look.

[Jimmyt]

I remember reading a warning somewhere that if you disconnect the motor from the rudder steering, you need to make sure the rudders are locked down if you run your motor. Well, I was in a really shallow lake and didn't want to risk running my rudders into the bottom, and guess what I did:

And remember; rudders should be either fully up or locked in the fully down position. Using them anywhere in between can damage the bracketry and/or rudders - even if you don't manage to contact a moving prop...

[Dougiestyle]

Hi congrats on the repair, it looks good. I am a DIY kinda person and like a lot of folks I use youtube and this forum for for repairs. Boatworks is great for learning. I learned from him about the 2 different types of resin for using on our boats, epoxy and polyester. I believe the polyester is used exclusively on Mac's. I also like using the laminating polyester for most repairs (due to less sanding between coats and ease of reapplying more coats without waiting for it to dry).

Welcome to the forum and smooth sailing.

[LordElsinore]

Nice. And encouraging.

I snagged an underwater cable with my daggerboard. I'm afraid to lift it out because I'm sure there is damage.

With your post, I may feel braver to pull it out and look.

I’m with ya. I know I have some damage on my daggerboard as well, and haven’t pulled it out to see how bad it is yet. I think I will pull it out this weekend and take a look. I’ll post some photos of it here. Might as well while I’m at it.

[Highlander]

I done this Mod when I repaired my D/B 2017 I would strongly recommend doing this mod if u r repairing ur D/B or not because it protects the top rear trailing edge from chipping & cutting into the D/B trunk when the D/B is in the fully lowered position, also it keeps the D/B from rattling when raised on the water it does,nt seem to b avail to view any more don,t know why as I,m sure I was able to access it back in 2017 ?


Re: Busted my dagger board.
Post by parrothead » Wed Nov 05, 2008 10:03 am

Actually the mod involves bonding a piece of 1/2" CPVC to the trailing edge of the board. I made this repair to the board of our during the winter of 2005-06, and it is still holding up very well. I finally took some photos and posted a "Mods" entry that describes the fix. See http://macgregorsailors.com/modt/index.php?view=1095

Maybe Russ can fix it ?


J

[LordElsinore]

Maybe Russ can fix it ?

I hope so. That would be cool to see the detail. I'm curious to know what it looks like and if it's the full circumference of a pipe or it has to be cut in half first for it to fit in the trunk, etc. I'm game for doing it though

[Russ]

Is it this mod?

https://macgregorsailors.com/mods/index ... em&id=1095

[OverEasy]

Rescue Russ saves the day!
Boy you are good!
Thank you!
Was having a hard time understanding what was being accomplished but with the mod now available it makes perfect sense!

Great Mod Highlander!

[LordElsinore]

OK, I summoned up some courage and pulled out the daggerboard:



As expected, lots of chunks in various locations on both the leading and trailing edges, and on the top and the bottom too:









There are quite a few, but none of them look too intimidating. Looking forward to sanding these down and doing the repairs. My daggerboard has bottom paint on the lower portion that matches the bottom paint on the hull, but all of that is 10 years old by now. Still deciding if I want to put bottom paint on it, but might as well learn how to do that as well I suppose.

[OverEasy]

I you do do your own bottom paint don’t forgo applying a good couple of layers of primer first. Makes a big difference on how well the bottom paint adheres.

Whenever one of the early PO of our boat applied the bottom paint they skipped the primer and the anti marine growth ablative bottom paint didn’t stick very well…..

[Russ]

OK, I summoned up some courage and pulled out the daggerboard:

That's exactly what I fear mine will look like. I don't have the courage to deal with it now. The boat is pretty much tucked away for the winter. Might be a good Spring project.

Please document your restoration progress. I will likely need to refer to it.

[LordElsinore]

I postponed doing the fairing and gelcoat on my rudder for now since I decided to tackle my daggerboard while I was in fiberglassing mode. But, daggerboard repair is coming along nicely. Yes, Russ, I'll be happy to take pictures and post on the progress.

Having seen Highlander's mod, I'm half-tempted to use a slightly smaller hose/pipe in a similar way, but to actually encase it in as part of the fiberglassing. That way the daggerboard would be one solid piece with that extra shape/strength. My only concern would be that if it becomes too strong, it makes it easier for the daggerboard trunk to be damaged rather than the daggerboard breaking away...

[Highlander]

I postponed doing the fairing and gelcoat on my rudder for now since I decided to tackle my daggerboard while I was in fiberglassing mode. But, daggerboard repair is coming along nicely. Yes, Russ, I'll be happy to take pictures and post on the progress.

Having seen Highlander's mod, I'm half-tempted to use a slightly smaller hose/pipe in a similar way, but to actually encase it in as part of the fiberglassing. That way the daggerboard would be one solid piece with that extra shape/strength. My only concern would be that if it becomes too strong, it makes it easier for the daggerboard trunk to be damaged rather than the daggerboard breaking away...

Nope no worries it is only the top section inside the D/B trunk that u r re-enforcing the original exposed D/B will not b so it can rip off as intended

J