MacGregorSailors.com

I'm planning to sail the Fl keys in the spring for ~ a month and doing lots of upgrades to get ready. One of my big upgrades is around my anchor setup as I'll likely be solo and want to be able to sleep at night.. Like most things, I've been overthinking this setup for the past year or so, but here is where I settled.

For my main Anchor and selected a Galvanized 13lb Mantus M1 - https://www.mantusmarine.com/
They had a sale recently and it seems to be a good all-around Anchor. I thought about a 17lb, but that just seemed overkill and I can always use my secondary Danforth's if things get really rough.

For a bow roller, I've look at many options (and even acquired a few), but I've finally settled on a SeaDog Medium Anchor Bow Roller
https://sea-dog.com/groups/3015-medium- ... bow-roller
Its right at the size limit to fit on the boat (Length to Anchor locker, Width, etc) and provides flexibility. I am going to upgrade my forestay and install CS Johnson Quick Release forestay levels to raise the height of the jib (I have a CDI Roller Furler), which also helps to provide more room for the Anchor roller. I've seen multiple posts on forestay mod, so I'm sure you can search/find that on the site. If I do end up needing to replacing my forestay due to wear, I'll upgrade to a larger wire just for extra security. I'm also going to need to move the bow cleat on that side as well, but that's not a major issue.

I also picked up a Mantus Anchor Guard (on sale) and will see how that works out. Again, it could be overkill, but looking to make it as secure as possible. https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-anchor-guard/ More on that later once I get it installed.

My current dilemma is if/how to reinforce the bow to support the anchor and bow roller. The Anchor Roller only partially sits on the pulpit and it's going to hang over the front (this is normal), but I'm still a little concerned about how much it's going to stress the bow area to have a 13lb anchor on the nose bouncing around in the waves (I'll remove it when trailering). I'm going to put in a large backing plate under the deck (likely using 1/2" UHMW) as it is strong, no issues with corrosion (galvanic or otherwise), and easier to work with. I'm still debating having a stainless plate made for the bow to set on top that provides more surface area and stick out under the bow roller part of the way (3-4") to provide additional support. Again, this could all be overkill and I have a habit of over-engineering everything, so looking for some feedback.

I attached some pictures where I just have the bow roller sitting on the bow for sizing, etc. Nothing mounted yet.

Feedback ?

-Dennis
P.S. I have a like-new BW Yacht bow roller if anyone is interested as well as 13lb bruce anchor & unused bow roller. Installed the BW Yacht bow roller for a few months last year before I decided to switch to something that could store the anchor. I'll post it in the classifieds.

That is a fine looking anchor roller! And, you can't go wrong with a Mantus.

I get using backing plates beneath the roller bracket, and below the deck, to spread the load out for the fiberglass. However, hanging it out past the deck 3 or 4 inches doesn't seem to do much for me. Are you trying to support the roller bracket?

If you are worried about the moment created by a 13 lb anchor, just wait till you see what snatching on a set anchor with a 5,000 lb boat will do to it.

Now, if you hang the bracket way out, you will need to extend back over more of the deck so you don't just tear the nose off off.

Maybe if you explain what situation you are designing for, I could wrap my pea-brain around it...

Better yet, got a sketch?

I like your roller also. I've got one that came with my boat that I've attached. I decided to make an extension to the tongue that holds the jib and fore-stay which I then riveted the side of the anchor roller to. I then riveted the anchor roller to the deck.

On my first launch, we had a very steep grade to the ramp and the rear of the boat floated up and caused the anchor roller to hang up on the bow cradle causing it to pull out the first rivet into the bow. I ended up using 3 large lags and rivets to fix the situation and it seems to work fine now. I did consider getting a 1/4" thick aluminum plate to mount to the front bow and then drill and tap screws into that because then the pressure would be more spread out like you said. With my M26S there's not easy access to the area under the front bow and I could barely get my hand into the area. Let alone hold a wrench etc..

Pics are my first set up. Unfortunately, I don't have pics of the final job.

Good luck.
Mitch

Hi Demos!
So it’s now February 2021. Did you finish your bow anchor roller project? Did you get to Florida?
Any pictures of your finished & tested project?

I ask as this is a topic of interest for us as well.
We would like to instal some sort of bow roller along with an electric anchor winch to avoid clambering up to the bow to drop anchor every time.

We are also looking at modification to the existing anchor rope locker. It’s too small and awkward.
There is a foam flotation cavity below it we are contemplating opening up which would give much needed room for chain, anchor & anchor lines.
We would replace the removed foam into the two side spaces on either side within the forward bow cabin space which would be about the same flotation volume as would be removed.

It sounds like you have a good idea of getting the stresses mitigated and it would be nice to see and know how it turned out.

Regards, Over Easy

Here is the bow roller with a 15 pound manson supreme on it. 11900 miles and she is still doing fine. Lots of big waves up to 5 feet crossing the upper gulf from Carrabelle Fl to Steinhatchee Fl and she is still fine. The second pic is of the washers under the deck. No other reinforcement. For anchoring I have a loop of rope through the eye that you wench the boat up on the trailer with and I always tie the anchor rode to that loop. This lowers my scope calculation by about 3 ft. and doesn't seem to pull the boat down when on anchor in rough weather near as much as when the rode pulls from the deck height. I will look for a picture of this loop.






Here is a picture of the loop. I let the rode out then tie the rode to the loop with 3 half hitches never has it come loose.

Here's my skinflint bow-roller solution. Well not entirely skinflint, that IS a Mantus, just sayin'. The guy at Mantus made fun of the Mac stock bow roller when I sent him a photo. He said something along the lines of "Why don't you install a real bow roller?". Reminded me of Crocodile Dundee.

I cut out a bit of the anchor locker lid fiberglass to create a chain pass-thru. I used to have a trailer quick pin to ensure that it wouldn't move, but I stopped using it a long time ago and the anchor hasn't budged, but then again we are lake and river sailors who have never been to sea.
https://www.amazon.ca/Invincible-Marine ... 227&sr=8-9

We were wondering the same thing about the hull and fwd deck strength for mounting a bow roller and rode on our Mac26X.

The force applied when anchored in storm conditions can be considerable from what we have seen (not personally experienced as yet).

Does anyone have any idea of the strength of the fwd cleats and how they are secured underneath?
Are there any reinforcement plates?
Are they bolted or screwed in place?
Do they have any issues with pulling out under load?

Does anyone have any idea of the strength of the bow pulpit feet attachments?
Are there any reinforcement plates?
Are the feet bolted or screwed in place?
Does the pulpit hold up under load or is it more of a handhold?
Does anyone know if anyone has tried to modify it to include a seat or would it be to weak for something like that?

One thought we had (and it depends upon the answers to the above questions) was to make a fitted “Y” plate on top of the deck incorporating the existing mountings for the cleats and bow pulpit feet that would extend beyond the bow to mount a bow roller as well as integrate a larger anchor chain locker and winch.

The thought is to have all the existing deck penetrations reinforce each other and distribute any loads more uniformly to the fwd bow decking.

Any thoughts? Concerns? Cautions?
Good / bad / other?

ris wrote: ↑Mon Feb 08, 2021 7:44 pm For anchoring I have a loop of rope through the eye that you wench the boat up on the trailer with and I always tie the anchor rode to that loop. This lowers my scope calculation by about 3 ft. and doesn't seem to pull the boat down when on anchor in rough weather near as much as when the rode pulls from the deck height. I will look for a picture of this loop.

Here is a picture of the loop. I let the rode out then tie the rode to the loop with 3 half hitches never has it come loose.

This is just brilliant!

I don't think I'd be too worried about trailering loads or wave hopping loads on an anchor resting on the roller. As @JimmyT mentioned a heavy boat backing off and the anchor suddenly taking a set will transmit far higher loads. They seem to handle that just fine. However after seeing @SlowSL's hurricane damage boat viewtopic.php?f=8&t=28237#p349401 I do wonder what that bow can take. @ris's solution is just plain obvious (after he showed it). There is no doubt that loop is reinforced far higher than the bow roller area and that is before the other benefits you mentioned. Thanks @ris.

Inq

To answer your question about what lies beneath the bow on a 26x, I've attached a couple of photos I've posted a couple times before showing the bow cleats are supported with washers. I previously installed and removed the BWY bow roller (which they candidly tell you is intended for raising a lunch hook and is not appropriately sized to hold an anchor shank). I replaced it with the SeaDog roller. I also added a larger bail on the roller and the Mantus bow guard.

I use a Mantus 35 lb galvanized anchor, 30 ft of 1/4 inch G4 chain and 300 ft of half inch double braid Norestar line. Is this overkill? Maybe, but I also don't drag even in 40 ft of water with a 10 ft tidal swing and gusting 40 knots. (I'm not claiming I actually get good sleep in those conditions ... but I intend to never drag.) If you search the archives, you will find a few other proponents of using a 35 lb anchor for your X/M/T, mostly from folks who anchor frequently in highly variable conditions.

The boat is a lot stronger and can do much more than most people give it credit for. I've had this arrangement for 3+ years and it's worked out well despite some serious pounding (by Macgregor standards).

Also, I added a heavy duty twisted shackle (1.5 inch length) between the bottom of the roller furler and the bow stem fitting so the anchor can sit straight on the bow. This necessitated slightly retentioning/adjusting the other parts of the standing ringing.

Finally, I almost always use an anchor trip line with a small buoy because I don't have a windlass. Youtube example below.