Boat tips up on trailer
Boat tips up on trailer
We went to Windermere in the English Lake District this weekend for our first sail in our 26X. Everything went well and we are really pleased. The boat is fitted with furling jib also lazyjacks on the main and main halyard led back to cockpit. I think I will investigate single line reefing of main back to cockpit also.
I discovered something interesting about recovering onto the trailer. The slip was steeper than our local one. This made it very easy to gently motor the bow of the boat forward into the vee. The bow strap was attached with a very slight amount of slack to avoid it becoming too tight when the rig was hauled out. When the rig was on level ground the boat had settled further back on the trailer than usual about 4 - 6 inches. I was not concerned and planned to bump it forward as we drove off. We lowered the mast ready to unbolt it and move it forward. At this point we were both in the cockpit and the combined weight of everything plus the overhanging mast caused the boat to tip backwards. It came to a halt and at first I thought the outboard might be holding us up. On investigation we werent touching the ground at the back the bow strap had held us. The admiral was told to stay very still whilst I walked forward (a bit like Michael Cain in the Italian Job) this worked and the boat tipped back into its safe position on the trailer whereupon I got the mast pulled forward pronto. Afterwards she bumped forward easily several goes about an inch at a time.
Im not sure if it would have been a good idea to have had the bow strap tighter when hauling out because it does tighten up considerably when the angle of the boat alters. So I suppose the conclusion is to be careful particularly on steeper slips maybe bump the boat forward whilst the mast is still up?
I discovered something interesting about recovering onto the trailer. The slip was steeper than our local one. This made it very easy to gently motor the bow of the boat forward into the vee. The bow strap was attached with a very slight amount of slack to avoid it becoming too tight when the rig was hauled out. When the rig was on level ground the boat had settled further back on the trailer than usual about 4 - 6 inches. I was not concerned and planned to bump it forward as we drove off. We lowered the mast ready to unbolt it and move it forward. At this point we were both in the cockpit and the combined weight of everything plus the overhanging mast caused the boat to tip backwards. It came to a halt and at first I thought the outboard might be holding us up. On investigation we werent touching the ground at the back the bow strap had held us. The admiral was told to stay very still whilst I walked forward (a bit like Michael Cain in the Italian Job) this worked and the boat tipped back into its safe position on the trailer whereupon I got the mast pulled forward pronto. Afterwards she bumped forward easily several goes about an inch at a time.
Im not sure if it would have been a good idea to have had the bow strap tighter when hauling out because it does tighten up considerably when the angle of the boat alters. So I suppose the conclusion is to be careful particularly on steeper slips maybe bump the boat forward whilst the mast is still up?
- Tony D-26X_SusieQ
- First Officer
- Posts: 306
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 7:20 am
- Location: Mayo, Maryland
The tip is because there is a gap in the retreval line. After you bump the boat forward and secure it snugly in the V the tip should be greatly reduced. It happens because the boat overhangs the trailor at the stern. Too much weight in the back of the cockpit overpowers the weight of the forward part of the boat and the bow tips up in the air. Some people put a block on the ground and lower the motor onto it and that stops the boat from tipping. 
Actually, thinking about the goemetry, doesn't the bow strap get looser, when the boat levels off on the trailer, 'when the rig is hauled out'?
Isn't this the whole reason for the "bump"?
So, aren't you better off cranking the thing in as far as you can get it, before pulling out of the water? Then, all you'll have is the normal gap that you bump to close. Of course, the steeper the ramp, the bigger that gap...
Isn't this the whole reason for the "bump"?
So, aren't you better off cranking the thing in as far as you can get it, before pulling out of the water? Then, all you'll have is the normal gap that you bump to close. Of course, the steeper the ramp, the bigger that gap...
geometry
I've seen this disparity of experiences before, as to whether the winch strap/line gets tighter or looser when the boat is pulled out ...
On my 2004 trailer, the winch sits below the rubber bumper for the point of the bow, so when the rear of the boat rotates downward, the line gets a little slack in it.
If the winch was above the bumper, however, that effect would be reversed. So, I have to ask - were older trailers different at the front? Or are there perhaps several folks out there with trailers that have been modified with relocated winches?
- AndyS
On my 2004 trailer, the winch sits below the rubber bumper for the point of the bow, so when the rear of the boat rotates downward, the line gets a little slack in it.
If the winch was above the bumper, however, that effect would be reversed. So, I have to ask - were older trailers different at the front? Or are there perhaps several folks out there with trailers that have been modified with relocated winches?
- AndyS
Keep in mind, its not just the winch... Its also the location of the eye...
If the eye is below the vee-block and the winch is above it, or visa versa, wouldn't that just be a recipe for disaster?
So, can you significantly "relocate" the winch?
I am far from a mac expert. But, since the "Mac bump" seems to be so legendary, I just assumed that all macs have the winch below the vee-block, thereby leading to the need of the "Mac bump"...
If the eye is below the vee-block and the winch is above it, or visa versa, wouldn't that just be a recipe for disaster?
So, can you significantly "relocate" the winch?
I am far from a mac expert. But, since the "Mac bump" seems to be so legendary, I just assumed that all macs have the winch below the vee-block, thereby leading to the need of the "Mac bump"...
- Graham Carr
- First Officer
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2004 9:19 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Sedro-Woolley WA, 2002 26X , Mercury 50hp 4 Stroke Bigfoot "Pauka2"
-
Frank C
Apparently so. Some owners have reported that they flipped the factory winch to the top instead of bottom of the v-block mount (by drilling a hole to pass the winch rope). This change permits them to physically hoist the bow up to its ideal spot, even though the ramp-angled trailer versus horizontal boat would otherwise prevent it.DLT wrote: ... So, can you significantly "relocate" the winch?
It's always struck me that using such an arrangement, they have the bow slightly suspended (off the bow bunks) by the winch post while the stern remains afloat ... meaning that the boat and trailer are actually towed up the ramp to meet each other, sorta' like a closing clam shell. Seems to me that it's a fine solution, assuming you're not happy with the other work-arounds.
- Tahoe Jack
- First Officer
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 9:50 pm
- Location: Lake Tahoe Nevada 2001 26X Evin/Suz 50..'Octopus'...
Boat tips up on trailer
OK guys, I will post my mod today re putting the winch on top of the strut....It sure seems to work for us. I haven't had an occasion to try it on a super-steep ramp however. Tahoe Jack 
Normal Mac bump never worked for me....maybe too much bottom paint drag.
What does work for me is...
1. With boat afloat above the trailer, fully tighten winch to seat bow in v-chock.
2. Pull up the ramp a foot or two (so boat is starts to be partly supported by the trailer) and hit the brakes.
3. The changed angle between the length axes of boat and trailer will have spaced the bow aft of the v-chock. so again winch the bow snuggly into the bow chock.
4. Repeat the 2,3 sequence several times till the boat is entirely supported by the trailer (their length axes are now parallel). At this point my bow was maybe 1/2 inch from being fully seated in the v-chock...closer than ever before, and enuf for me.
5. This also gives the ballast tank plenty of time to drain while stillon the ramp and so lightens the load to be pulled the rest of the way up the ramp.
6. This works best on a cold rainy wednesday when no crowd is waiting impatiently to use the ramp.
Good luck.
What does work for me is...
1. With boat afloat above the trailer, fully tighten winch to seat bow in v-chock.
2. Pull up the ramp a foot or two (so boat is starts to be partly supported by the trailer) and hit the brakes.
3. The changed angle between the length axes of boat and trailer will have spaced the bow aft of the v-chock. so again winch the bow snuggly into the bow chock.
4. Repeat the 2,3 sequence several times till the boat is entirely supported by the trailer (their length axes are now parallel). At this point my bow was maybe 1/2 inch from being fully seated in the v-chock...closer than ever before, and enuf for me.
5. This also gives the ballast tank plenty of time to drain while stillon the ramp and so lightens the load to be pulled the rest of the way up the ramp.
6. This works best on a cold rainy wednesday when no crowd is waiting impatiently to use the ramp.
Good luck.
- Graham Carr
- First Officer
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2004 9:19 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Sedro-Woolley WA, 2002 26X , Mercury 50hp 4 Stroke Bigfoot "Pauka2"
Hey Jack, looking forward to seeing how you did your mod. I was looking at the factory winch placement yesterday and you can see how it is pulling down. I plan on cutting mine off and raising the winch so it has a direct pull in line with the bow eye. I also plan on increasing the depth of the treads.
Graham
Graham

