Rudders 99x

[Kevgrn114]

So I thought that the newer style rudders where the narrower ones, but am I mistaken on that? Last time I was out I got stalled trying to fight weather helm. I did have full main but only a small amount of genoa out so I know that contributed, but I couldn't help think that the wider rudders might have given it more teeth. So which style is newer?

[Crikey]

Kev, first check their alignment.

[DaveB]

Regardless what others say about the older MacX rudders and Aluminum brackets. After 4 years Sailing with Original Rudders and Aluminum Brackets I find no faults in them at all. This is covering over 2000 miles both Atlantic and Gulf Coast of Florida.
One does have to equip. rudders with quick release cams. Without them you can do major damage in both the rudder brackets and rudders.
You can also do same damage with the update stainless brackets and more so of rudders since they are 6inches lower than original.
Original rudders are just fine tho I reinforced them but same shape and form. Shallow waters the original is much better.
Just my 2cts.
Dave

So I thought that the newer style rudders where the narrower ones, but am I mistaken on that? Last time I was out I got stalled trying to fight weather helm. I did have full main but only a small amount of genoa out so I know that contributed, but I couldn't help think that the wider rudders might have given it more teeth. So which style is newer?

[Kevgrn114]

I guess it could be alignment, one of the brackets is bent a bit, just haven't got to fixing that yet.

[seahouse]

Hey DaveB!

Took your advice - got my Duckworks quick release clam cleats this summer, but I'm just getting around to installing them now. If you would be so kind as to share an iota of your extensive experience... ...Do you use the cleats to hold the rudders in the "up" position as well, or do you use the standard factory-supplied cleats for that? The releasing cleats would be faster, of course, but it does make a difference in their mounting location.

I'm also wondering how easy it is to ensure that the rudders are tightly set against the stops in the down postion. The nature of the engagement of the cleats means that they release some of the tension when they hook in. But maybe elasticity and length of the 1/4" line takes up this slack?

Thanks in advance! -Brian.

[seahouse]

...Or anybody that has installed and uses the Duckworks releasing clam cleats?

[Ormonddude]

I have Harken 150 I use the same cleat to hold them up as to keep them down they are only $30 to replace if i hit something and they blow apart lol

[133bhp]

I have them - been good except for one occasion where the one rudder I was using tripped on someting once underway and went to steer and coud'nt (was laying almost flat) and headed for a steel lined jetty. managed to get the engine down in nick of time!

Point is; I had mine on minmum setting which seemed plenty, but it's worth fine tuning so as to flip up only with some force.

p.s Rope jams and keeps the line/rudder secure until trips.

[seahouse]

Very good point 133bhp. It's good to know about that, thanks. If the cleat were tripped, you then have no way to secure the rudders either up, or down, unless you retain the use of the original cleat. I guess in an emergency you could hold the line up by hand, if you are aware what's happening and act fast. Maybe the cleat will snap back down quickly into the ready position by hand? Maybe the lightest setting is appropriate if it doesn't pop up without hitting something. The stern rail seats, and the full enclosure, when up, do complicate the installation and functioning a bit.

Ormonddude that must be what the MacGregor video is referring to when it says that the rudders will kick up if they hit something - the plastic cleats explode! (?) But they do match the plastic winches. Maybe they explode too.

-Brian.