Any Good Or Bad Year ?

[Dido]

First post so here goes:
We have identified that the Macgregor 26x is the right boat for us and we have looked at several 2nd hand boats ranging from 1996 to 2001 and have more viewings planned for this bank holiday weekend, I was wondering if all years are equal, in the 2nd hand car market certain years of a particular model should be avoided due to manufacturing problems that eventually get resolved, what advice would you give, regarding which Macgregor 26X year is better or worse ? Also any tips on what to check for on 2nd hand Macgregors ?

Thanks
Simon (Peterborough,UK)

[Québec 1]

The most recent X is the best !
Q1

So I hear!!!!

[sailor141]

The new ones have the beefed up steering system, the ballast vent under the forward v-berth, and larger filling valve for the water ballast.

Things to know:

+ If the boat was kept in the water, check for blistering on the hull. If the previous owner didn't protect the hull with a barrier coat in addition to bottom paint there may be blistering.

+ Check in bilge areas for any signs of major problems. (full of water and debris)

+ Check the trailer for damage, rust, potention problems.

+ Check the engine, see if you can go with the owner on a Sea Trial to see how everything works.

+ Check the condition of the sails and sailing hardware.

I have a 2002 model and have enjoyed it since I got it. Hope the info helps

[nedmiller]

I have a '98 and there were some changes that occurred after my boat was built that I wish I had. That said, I think that it is more important to look for a boat that was really well cared for and one that the previous owner invested in some high quality mods. When we found our X, the previous owner had just put on a NEW 60 HP Bigfoot, had all lines led aft, had shore power professionally installed with a West Marine charger and Blue Seas Combiner, had put in a Teak and Holly floor in the cabin, lazy jacks, a Wallas furnace, and so many more mods that would have cost me thousands. He had built a beautiful cherry wood galley front that I would have never been able to make or afford to have someone make. That gave us a wonderful platform to add the things that we wanted, like an Engel 'fridge and a Lowrance HDS 5.
My point is that you can get a with high quality mods and the price will not be that much greater. That to me was more important than the relatively minor changes that occur from year to year. IF you can get a newer X with great mods, then of course do that since the improvements are significant, but don't fail to consider a boat just because it is an earlier model.

SILK

[Russ]

As mentioned above, the model year probably isn't an issue. I know of no "problem" years.

Better to look at added features, maintenance and status of the motor and trailer. The motor being one of the most complicated parts of the boat, I'd have a mechanic check it out.


--Russ

[Hamin' X]

As already mentioned, the ballast vent was moved forward in later models. Also, early model X's had a secondary fill valve under the companion way step, that was problematic and a smaller transom fill valve. Earlier models had balsa core deck construction, that could be a problem without proper maintenance of deck fittings. Earlier models had cast aluminum rudder brackets, that have been known to break. Later models have SS brackets. I think that 2001 and later models have all of the running production changes incorporated.

~Rich

[Rick Westlake]

In mid-1999 MacGregor changed their decks from balsa-cored to a sort of "corrugated fiberglas" lay-up that has ribs of fiberglass between the deck and the cabin overhead. This layup means no chance of delamination or deck rot. Bossa Nova has that corrugated lay-up, and was built August 1999.

The ballast vent is up under the V-berth in Bossa Nova, too; and she has the stainless-steel rudder mounts. I did change from a "composite" centerboard pendant (steel cable from the board to the turning block on-deck, then polyester line back to the cam-cleat) to an all-polyester pendant; that's easy enough to do, once you get the centerboard-hanger out of the trunk. If you have the steel cable, replace it with Sta-Set now before it breaks.

The most problematic items, I agree, are the motor and the trailer. Both are easy but expensive to replace. My 1999 Honda 50 is running strong, and so is my 2009 Sea Lion double-axle galvanized trailer.

[puggsy]

Nothing wrong with the hull...but all the rest is ..."to a price"...and could be better...I would love to get my hands on the bare hull and fit it out to MY satisfaction....
even thinking along the lines of a rear jet unit like what is used on a jet ski...not so much to tow a skier, but to negotiate shallows...Many West Australian cray [ lobster] boats have them [ larger units] fot getting in close to the many reefs up and down the coast, including the Abrolhos Islands. Check out the islands on NEARMAP.

[bartmac]

Re jet unit....having considered a number of motors for our 26x and not wanting to plane our boat,we settled on a 15 suzuki four stroke.Does just fine but the idea of something else is interesting.The possible loss of space under the cockpit and the idea of thru the hull installation was too much work.An outboard is such an efficient self contained power unit.Just finished the SS frame at the stern which now houses 6 solar panels following the curve,cockpit lighting,anchor light.The bimini also swings of this allowing it to stay up even when sailing.Our boat is 2000 complete with front vent and SS rudder mechanism,and whilst it has the remains of antifoul there are no signs of any blisters.The condition of the sails indicate not much usage......all the sailing equipment was scant and not usable or incorrectly assembled.
BUT and its a BIG BUT......the cost of any changes,mods,additions need to be taken into account when purchasing because I'm intentionally NOT counting the cost because it would upset the treasurer and would take the shine off another wise great experience....the customising the boat is as much fun as any hobby with great rewards.We come back from a trip with a list of improvements ie new foam for the bedding and cushions,dodger,furling,boarding ladder,etc etc and if you're not handy its costly....the internet is great for purchasing supplies from all over the world....probably not a concern in the US or UK but Australia is a small market and pricing is not competitive for anything but bog standard.Sails from US ie hanked main and furling UV protected genoa135 for the cost of just the genoa... and didn't take long at all

[Dido]

Thanks for all your replies, we made a bid for a 1996 boat that had some minor damage (Fell of the trailer, in boatyard awaiting top coat) but depsite meeting the asking price over the phone someone turned up paid £1000 more in cash and drove her away before the deal could be done, I learnt a lot from the boatyard though.

However all was not lost as this weekend we saw a 2000 X and paid a deposit , collecting her on Wednesday, paid 5K more but we have a great boat that is ready to sail,the rigging has not been used for 4 years and looks brand new, already flicking through the MODS pages as would like to add shore power, we intend to user her all the way through the winter on inland waterway and have a few electic hook up morings in mind.

Anyone got any hints on shore power please let me know.

Thanks Simon & Avril new owners

[Phillip]

Oppps, missed the above post, so sorry.
Cheers
Phillip

[Russ]

Anyone got any hints on shore power please let me know.

Search the mods. It is probably one of the easiest things to do IMO. My idea of shore power is an extension cord running into the cabin. We have no power on the dock and it's only when on the hard at the house.

[nedmiller]

My advice on shore power is to buy a real shore power unit. Mine has a polarity indicator and you cannot plug in the shore power cord to a marina outlet with hot to ground. Sometimes when on the hard, I use an converter and an extension cord to my shop and I'll get the extension cord plugged in hot to ground--the indicator light glows. Also, I think the main switch panel cuts connection to both wires as an additional safety feature. One danger you face with a homemade unit using an extension cord and a breaker switch cutting the power-only wire is that if you accidentally plug the wire in backwards, it will be hot coming into the boat with NO Ground, since you switched it off! We do not stay in Marina's often, but I have been in some that you have to use a real shore power cord. Others may experienced in marina stays could weigh in now.
I'm not an electrician so take my advice with that level of ignorance in mind.

SILK

[Russ]

If you are going to be using shore power regularly, install it properly with marine grade components. As mentioned above, there are some extra bene's such as reversed polarity indicators and GFI as well. It's not difficult to do at all, but if you aren't comfortable, don't do it yourself.

What do you need shore power for? A couple of outlets usually works for most people.

For years our previous marina only had 15A standard electrical outlets. I needed a 15-30A adapter to plug the shore power cord into. We actually used the adapter quite a bit as some marinas didn't have 30A outlets. Then they upgraded to 30A and I could run the hot water heater and air conditioner simultaneously.
We still prefer to be untethered from the dock on the hook and away from people.


--Russ

[bartmac]

As the mac 26 is a highly mobile both on water and land I would consider the need for shore power unnecesarry if a proper 12v system is installed.This has worked for us on both our boat and motorhome.The ability to stop anywhere and do all the things you want to without worrying about 240V or 110 is rather liberating.Most other appliances are available 12v dc and do double duty on land and on water.......aircon is the only energy sapping thing I can think of not possible on 12v.All power tools are now available with amazing lithium batteries allowing no cords.The other consideration in Australia is the rules rules and more rules once you introduce 240 in a motorhome....don't know the rules for boat but safety would demand caution....dangerous stuff those electrons along with LPG or propane.