Anchor Windlass
- Jack O'Brien
- Captain
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 6:28 pm
- Location: West Palm Beach, Florida, 2000X, Gostosa III
Anchor Windlass
Please advise your experience-based opinion as to whether a "power down" or "free-fall" model windlass is preferable, and why. Thanks.
- Jack O'Brien
- Captain
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 6:28 pm
- Location: West Palm Beach, Florida, 2000X, Gostosa III
Anchor Windlass
Been four days now without a response so I guess not too many Mac owners have used windlasses before. Doing an edit did not bring this subject to the top of the list so I'm posting a reply just to keep it in view.
- Roy B. Highland
- Deckhand
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2004 12:15 pm
- Location: Central Coast California 1997X
power windlass
Jack, I don't have one but would love to find one small enough to use on my Mac 26.
I have used many on bigger boats and would suggest the
" free fall" model. It'll get the anchor down fast and not use any power. You can stop the rode from going any further with what-ever break the unit comes with. Great if heading into any wind or chop when you are anchoring.
I'm going to watch this post to see if anyone has one on their Mac. You'd think Billy would have one on his.
Roy " Salty Dog" Highland
I have used many on bigger boats and would suggest the
" free fall" model. It'll get the anchor down fast and not use any power. You can stop the rode from going any further with what-ever break the unit comes with. Great if heading into any wind or chop when you are anchoring.
I'm going to watch this post to see if anyone has one on their Mac. You'd think Billy would have one on his.
Roy " Salty Dog" Highland
- Jack O'Brien
- Captain
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 6:28 pm
- Location: West Palm Beach, Florida, 2000X, Gostosa III
Breeze 700 Windlass
http://www.southpacifictech.com/700series.html
Roy:
I am gonna do one of these - just haven't decided whether power-down or free-fall.
I can appreciate the quicker drop of the free-fall, reduced battery and windlass motor usage. I can see the possibility of it allowing the chain to drop on top of the anchor, the clutch needing repair and maybe power-down would pull the rode out of the locker better if gravity weren't enough. Since I mostly anchor in 20 feet or less the quick fall is not so important.
Anyone's thoughts?
I will mount the windlass on a reinforced anchor locker cover that will still swing up and have room inside for a second rode for a bow pulpit mounted danforth backup/lunch hook. I will put a hause pipe for the rode through my X's anchor locker and give up some toe room in the V-berth to get at least a two-foot rode drop. I will buy a Kingston Quickset 22# plow anchor with self-launching roller. I already have a 105 AH AGM reserve battery mounted next to the ballast vent to use for power.
I just can't decide whether to get "power-down" or "free-fall".
Roy:
I am gonna do one of these - just haven't decided whether power-down or free-fall.
I can appreciate the quicker drop of the free-fall, reduced battery and windlass motor usage. I can see the possibility of it allowing the chain to drop on top of the anchor, the clutch needing repair and maybe power-down would pull the rode out of the locker better if gravity weren't enough. Since I mostly anchor in 20 feet or less the quick fall is not so important.
Anyone's thoughts?
I will mount the windlass on a reinforced anchor locker cover that will still swing up and have room inside for a second rode for a bow pulpit mounted danforth backup/lunch hook. I will put a hause pipe for the rode through my X's anchor locker and give up some toe room in the V-berth to get at least a two-foot rode drop. I will buy a Kingston Quickset 22# plow anchor with self-launching roller. I already have a 105 AH AGM reserve battery mounted next to the ballast vent to use for power.
I just can't decide whether to get "power-down" or "free-fall".
- Catigale
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10421
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 5:59 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Admiral .............Catigale 2002X.......Lots of Harpoon Hobie 16 Skiffs....Island 17
- Contact:
on anchors
IMHO unless you are anchoring all the time a windlass is a complicated thing to add...we anchor all the time in the Hudson and just throw a Fortress with 25 foot chain and 150 feet 3/8 out and it sets nicely into the sand or mud.
On a related note, Im seeing a lot of pix of Bullwaga's (sp?) up on the pulpit - do you guys worry about the anchor fouling the genoa when sailing? Im thinking of mounting my anchor up there, but I think I would need a heavy canvas bag or something to stop from ripping my genny to shreds..
Stephen
On a related note, Im seeing a lot of pix of Bullwaga's (sp?) up on the pulpit - do you guys worry about the anchor fouling the genoa when sailing? Im thinking of mounting my anchor up there, but I think I would need a heavy canvas bag or something to stop from ripping my genny to shreds..
Stephen
- Mark Chamberlain
- Chief Steward
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2004 6:57 am
- Location: North Pole Alaska
- Contact:
anchor ball vs windless
I consistantly anchor in 150 to 200 ft of water to halibut fish. I drop the anchor as manyas 4 times in a day. I use an anchore ball on a stainless ring that slides down the rope as I drive forward towards the spot I dropped the anchore, the ball slides down the rope as i move forward until it lifts the anchor off the bottom and the chain and anchor are then floating under the ball, I then just retrieve it across the surface.
The set up is about 65.00. just about all baots in Valdez use this method except for the bigger boats. Works great and cost little.
Windmusher.com
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The set up is about 65.00. just about all baots in Valdez use this method except for the bigger boats. Works great and cost little.
Windmusher.com
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- Jack O'Brien
- Captain
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 6:28 pm
- Location: West Palm Beach, Florida, 2000X, Gostosa III
Anchorman
Stephen wrote: "...we anchor all the time in the Hudson..."
The operative word there is "WE". I singlehand and with old, arthritic knees that need replacement, I don't scramble between the bow and helm very nimbly. Even when I have crew the Admiral won't miss the chore of anchor raising.
In a stiff breeze and/or current (normal here) with two anchors out, first I have to haul one in hand over hand. When it breaks free the boat drops back and, hopefully, stops fast on the other anchor. I stow the first one and then have to haul the second in hand over hand. When it breaks free I know the boat will drift down on the boats, or whatever, astern so I have to hustle to stow it and get back to the helm quickly to avoid disaster. Not fun.
A windlass installation may be complicated for some - I see it more as a fun/hobby/challenge thing to do at leisure.
I will have control switches for the windlass both at the helm and at the bow. If single anchored, which I will usually do with the bigger new plow, I can motor up on the anchor and raise it with the windlass. If double anchored, sitting at the bow I can use the windlass to inch up on the plow anchor while I haul in rode for the backup and raise it. As I'll have more rode out for the plow than the backup, I can then go to the helm and retrieve the plow as a single anchor, or complete it from the bow if there is no hurry to go to the helm. The windlass with its 400 pounds of pull is certainly stronger than my old back which has done all the pulling so far.
The operative word there is "WE". I singlehand and with old, arthritic knees that need replacement, I don't scramble between the bow and helm very nimbly. Even when I have crew the Admiral won't miss the chore of anchor raising.
In a stiff breeze and/or current (normal here) with two anchors out, first I have to haul one in hand over hand. When it breaks free the boat drops back and, hopefully, stops fast on the other anchor. I stow the first one and then have to haul the second in hand over hand. When it breaks free I know the boat will drift down on the boats, or whatever, astern so I have to hustle to stow it and get back to the helm quickly to avoid disaster. Not fun.
A windlass installation may be complicated for some - I see it more as a fun/hobby/challenge thing to do at leisure.
I will have control switches for the windlass both at the helm and at the bow. If single anchored, which I will usually do with the bigger new plow, I can motor up on the anchor and raise it with the windlass. If double anchored, sitting at the bow I can use the windlass to inch up on the plow anchor while I haul in rode for the backup and raise it. As I'll have more rode out for the plow than the backup, I can then go to the helm and retrieve the plow as a single anchor, or complete it from the bow if there is no hurry to go to the helm. The windlass with its 400 pounds of pull is certainly stronger than my old back which has done all the pulling so far.
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Terry Chiccino
- Chief Steward
- Posts: 91
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 12:27 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Santa Cruz, CA., '02x,w/'09 Honda,efi
Mark, can you tell us more about your deep water anchoring? How much anchor rode are you laying out, and what type of anchor have you had the best luck with? Does the anchor ball contribute to the angle of your rode from the anchor to the ball?
When I fish for Halibut we drift and use the motor to hold our ground, I'd like to anchor and shut off that motor so I can pay more attention to chasin' those 'buts!
When I fish for Halibut we drift and use the motor to hold our ground, I'd like to anchor and shut off that motor so I can pay more attention to chasin' those 'buts!
