Wayne wrote:Dimitri,
Do you have any tricks to beaching stern to? Do you go in reverse with your motor, then quickly shut down and tilt it up? Do you paddle it somehow? It's a bit tricky isn't it?
Thanks.
Wayne
Wayne, on a boat with such high freeboard as the Mac (Freeboard is several inches higher than my former larger sailboat) I would consider bow-to beaching to be trickier. Its much easier IMO to back-up and see exactly what you are getting into over the open transom. The possible danger I see is if you are in an onshore wind and your bow anchor doesn't set...but you should have enough time to put it in forward and get out of there if that happens (retrieving your bow line so it doesn't go into the prop obviously).
Keep in mind that you should only do it when conditions permit. Bottom type, waves, tide, and wind all play a factor and there is probably nothing worse for a transom than letting it slam repeatedly against the ground in waves. Its an interesting concept getting the exact right tides that would allow you to float up onto a (no-wake) sandbar in an evening ebb tide, stay on the dry all night for a nice comfortable sleep, and then float off in the morning ready for departure. Seems like our Aussie guy (maybe Pilrim?) had some pictures like this and I've read some bahamas cruise logs where the captains did this in the shallow waters also. Another Mac advantage with the flat bottom!
But as far as how I do it for my daytime anchoring routine (lunch hook), first I make sure all my boards are up (you can have a tiny bit of CB down for tracking but you don't even need that when reversing usually as your boat will track properly in reverse due to the weathervane effect) I run slowly parallel to the coast in about 3-5 feet of water until I find where I want to stop and then turn the bow out to sea and eyeball where I want to drop the anchor. The length of your scope depends on the water depth. You are supposed to use at least 5:1 scope which would be 5 units of length for every 1 unit of depth but if there are a lot of boats nearby, sometimes you have to use less so that people won't chop-up your anchor line. It always amazes me how many (either stupid or arrogant) weekend warriors there are who are about to cut your anchor line as they pass in front of your boat. Anyway, for the shallow Florida waters, I usually drop the anchor about 100 feet from shore and hope that it sets by the time it reaches 75 (50 feet of rode when you subtract the boat length) which is usually adequate. There is another whole thread on here recently with lots of useful information about anchors.
I usually drop the anchor from the front hatch then go back to the helm while the first mate tends the line. My stern is probably now in 5-7 foot deep water typically. To do it single handedly, you would want to run the line through a bow roller (which I don't have) or the bow pulpit and then back to the cockpit over the deck so that it will keep the bow pointed offshore while you tend to everything from the cockpit.
Now you back-up very slowly while paying out the bow anchor, you should have your stern anchor right next to you on the cockpit seat (with the bitter end tied to a cleat) ready to throw. I use a pretty small anchor (with a small chain) for the stern and can easily throw it 15 feet. When you are about halfway to shore (now back in 4-5 feet of water) you (or your mate) sets the bow anchor by holding the line tight so it drags right and buries itself. You will feel the right resistance as it sets properly. Then you keep backing up very slowly as you pay out more of the bow line.
At this point, the depth is down to about 3 feet and you need to be tilting up your motor as you are backing and keeping an eye on the ground. You obviously don't want to hit your prop on the ground so when you get into about 2 feet of water, you can see the ground start swirling around and its time to kill the motor and tilt it up some more. If there is no wind, you will have plenty of inertia built up, if it is an onshore wind, you will want to stop the motor sooner and if it is an offshore wind, you may want to try to get as close as you can. In idle, I don't mind tilting the engine right until the cavitation plate is at the surface. In this configuration, you can probably back into less than 18 inches of water without hitting your prop although I will stop usually by 24 inches at the latest and then do the rest with the stern anchor.
You (or the mate) then does a quick secure to the bow anchor (to stop any movement) and then quickly chuck the stern anchor towards the shore. These three movements (stop/tilt motor, secure bow line, throw stern anchor) may need to be done fairly quickly if there is a strong offshore wind. Usually at this point, I just jump off of the back and go grab the anchor and set it by hand. But if you found that you have drifted offshore a bit, you can always drag the stern anchor in some...even throw it out again to get closer if you have to.
When setting the stern anchor on the beach, you will want to pull it upwind/upcurrent enough so that the boat stays perpendicular to the shoreline. You may have to take in or let out some bow line to get it in the exact depth of water you want to be at. If there is no chance of big wake/waves, I'll leave the stern in about 18 inches of water and then may have to later adjust again for the tides.
Of course, if you are overnighting, you would want to throw at least 2 anchors off the bow for peace of mind. There are several different strategies on that and I don't presently do much overnighting and need a bigger primary anchor.
Hope this helps.