Electric Ballast Tank Valve...NOT!

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Spirit of the Wind
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Electric Ballast Tank Valve...NOT!

Post by Spirit of the Wind »

After reading a couple of posts about an electric ballast tank valve from Camping World, I decided to install one last spring. Now that the season is over, I have to reluctantly report that the mod was a complete failure. While it worked initially, algae buildup during the season prevented the valve from opening. The manual override screw worked, but was below the waterline and difficult to reach. The screw is made of a relatively soft metal. Halfway through the season, the slot was damaged to the point that a screwdriver would no longer fit it.

Over the winter, I'll replace it with a manual version.

Oh well, not all mods can be winners. :?

Bob Cameron
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Night Sailor
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Post by Night Sailor »

Thanks for that report. All of us know from experience that some of our brightest ideas either blow a fuse or grow dim with actual use. But we keep trying anyway and create some real winners too!
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Chuck Healey
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Post by Chuck Healey »

Same thing happened to me. Mine lasted about half a season before it wouldn't open, and yes that override screw strips very quickly. This is on a boat in fresh water that sits on the trailer most of the time. In theory it seemed like a great mod, but in practice a different story.
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Post by Paul S »

Chuck Healey wrote:Same thing happened to me. Mine lasted about half a season before it wouldn't open, and yes that override screw strips very quickly. This is on a boat in fresh water that sits on the trailer most of the time. In theory it seemed like a great mod, but in practice a different story.
Was thinking of a similar mod to my power ballast vent mod:
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=5169

Put a door lock actuator (or some other actuator) in line with the ballast rod..probably wouldn't have enough throw to do it..and would kinda look like crap (unless encased somewhow).

There are several other mods here that just use a long rod or cable to do it..sometimes simple is better..

Still don't think anyone has been brave enought to try my power vent mod (above link). So far works very very well..

But it is good to hear reports of brave souls that come up with a mod and report it doesn't work as planned later on..

Paul
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aya16
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Post by aya16 »

I tried the electric valve in the back. Worked slick. It was sweet lift a switch and the valve closed. Buttttt the thing was not water proof enough.
even though I 5200 the thing up pretty good. Now if that thing was water proof.....
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tidalwave
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SAME RESULTS...TOTAL FAILURE BY END OF SEASON

Post by tidalwave »

I had the same result...total failure of the unit after two months. A great idea which doesn't work
I kept my :macm: in fresh water and it didn't last a full season.

Luckily I kept the original ballast waste gate and reinstalled it.
I am going to put a short extension on the top end of the pull rod, so it
will be easier to open and close the gate.

I guess the old adage K.I.S.S. (keep it simple) is the best way.
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ALX357
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Post by ALX357 »

'Learned this method from an another X owner, it is just too simple and works wonderfully, .....
I have a dedicated boat pole for use in opening and closing the ballast gate valve at the stern. Shortened a bit, but still able to be used for a regular boat pole when needed ..... it is kept clamped to the transom beside the motor, close to the valve, and easily reached from the helm seat without bending down over the transom or having to lift the seat at all. Just unclip the pole, and use it to pull on the standard valve T handle to open, or push it back down to close it.
It has a plastic end, and I cut and sanded most of the point off, leaving a small shoulder and the outside flat of the hook to give a good bearing surface for pushing the T handle down to close it, and use the hook to lift the handle up to open.
Seems .... obvious .... no need to rig up complicated mods or spend alot of time/money on this easy solution.

(No, the photo is not reversed, if you noticed the hinge on the helm seat.... I moved the hinge to the starboard side to allow better access thru the transom on the ladder & port side. And the backstay had to be moved to the port side also... )

Image

THe pole is tethered with a stainless steel hardware clasp, so it can be removed easily, yet be secured from falling in the water accidently.
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Divecoz
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Post by Divecoz »

A few here have made a rod extention to get the handle up for an easy reach. Tat is something I am pondering to do myself.
By the way was the electric version marketed by Popeil The pocket Fisherman people ? :D
I too as have many others no doubt, bought or built things that sounded good , looked good on paper, but in the end just didn't work as planned or hoped for. You will find there are some very smart guys on this board.
Many who you would describe as being a lot more than just Handy with tools too.
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Sloop John B
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Post by Sloop John B »

I just use the usual boat pole. Clunked up, it's on the bench alongside. This is a 'perfect pole' with the rubberized thong, not the cheap WM of which I went through two.
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Divecoz
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Post by Divecoz »

I just noticed the X has a different set-up for raising and lowering the rudders than does the M
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ALX357
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Post by ALX357 »

The block raising and bungee hold-down on the Mac in the picture are mods.
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