Mac 26 Rub Rail damage
Mac 26 Rub Rail damage
This summer my wife and I were anchored at our dock when a heavy wind came up around midnight. It lasted maybe 45 minutes or so. The dock did not do so well. Twisted like a pretzel. Anyway, we suffered some rib rail damage. About one foot of the rib rail was damaged on the port side and a small amount of damage to the rib rail near the bow. Does anyone have an idea on how to repair the damaged rib rail? One of the bolts that is covered by the rib rail tore loose also. This is a Mac 26X - 97' model.
- kmclemore
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You probably mean the "Rub Rail"?
If so, there are several previous postings about the 26X that may be of help.....
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=5504
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=3038
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=3672
If so, there are several previous postings about the 26X that may be of help.....
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=5504
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=3038
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=3672
Two years ago during an unscheduled storm I lost about two feet of rubrail on my '02X. Some large pilings got in the way.
Well, the fellows at Blue Water convinced me to replace the whole thing, and gave me a very reasonable price on a 50 foot length of new stuff.
My local boat shop steered me away from the 5200 stuff as it can grip a lot more than is necessary, and is a real @$#%^& to remove. I went with the 25 year GE silicon white, and so far so good. A steady pull by person A, and goop application (above and below) and poke in place by person B. No question it is a two man job. But two neophytes (myself and another rooky) had the whole thing back in business within about two hours flat.
P.S. It did take about two hours prior, just to remove the original goop.
Well, the fellows at Blue Water convinced me to replace the whole thing, and gave me a very reasonable price on a 50 foot length of new stuff.
My local boat shop steered me away from the 5200 stuff as it can grip a lot more than is necessary, and is a real @$#%^& to remove. I went with the 25 year GE silicon white, and so far so good. A steady pull by person A, and goop application (above and below) and poke in place by person B. No question it is a two man job. But two neophytes (myself and another rooky) had the whole thing back in business within about two hours flat.
P.S. It did take about two hours prior, just to remove the original goop.
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Frank C
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Frank C
Most all docks on the left coast are floaters, and many have pilings interior to the dock's outline, or just at the ends. This means the rubrail is generally above the dock, so there's not much oppty for contacting the rubrail. I'm sure it fares much worse where concrete docks or many pilings are frequent obstacles.
- mtc
- Captain
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- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Panama City Beach, Florida 05 M 'Bellaroo' 60hp Merc BF
No doubt.
I was launching off a moderately constructed finger pier off of a ramp. The pilings were somewhat used, but the wind made up for any protrusions which would damage my hull/rail.
One good slam against the dock, of course the fenders moved, put a fairly good cut in the soft rail.
Had I had another rail type with a harder center I believe it would have survived the 'rub'
Most rails are surface mounted, while the Mac is a 'C' type mount.
I was launching off a moderately constructed finger pier off of a ramp. The pilings were somewhat used, but the wind made up for any protrusions which would damage my hull/rail.
One good slam against the dock, of course the fenders moved, put a fairly good cut in the soft rail.
Had I had another rail type with a harder center I believe it would have survived the 'rub'
Most rails are surface mounted, while the Mac is a 'C' type mount.
