Frank C wrote:This issue, lubing the lugs, has been debated numerous times. Some say use Never-seize. KMc says never lube lugs whatsoever. WD 40 won't do much either way, the heat from braking will vaporize it and fresh water or salt water will quickly wash away any residue.
Sounds as if the M trailer is using the larger size hubs ... the non-tapered spindle and 2.32" hub are the signals - all good, if true. The 26X had 3,500 axle and 10" brake drums (or 10" rotors) and 1.98" hub bore. Sounds as if the 26M takes a 12" rotor (?) on a 5,000 lb. axle.
The rotor is 10" Not sure what the axle is rated at.
On the lugs. I have heard both sides to oil and not to oil. I have heard from more than one mechanic not to use antiseize though..just oil. On my cars I use antisize on the hub and sometimes on the back of the wheel on the cars that the wheels tend to stick to. I either leave them dry (if recently oiled or are very clean). I will oil them if I have not removed the lug nuts in a long time. Naturally .....torquing the lug nuts is most important...and should be checked on a regular basis. I plan on oiling the lugs on the M trailer when i get it back together. The M trailer lugnuts should be tightened to 85-95.
Of course this thread that I started is for my trailer..there may have been.or may be...part changes from time to time..so what works for me in this situation...may not be right for someone else's trailer. I do hope that Macgregor does keep it the same....but sitll be careful before starting this project..especially before a trip.
Well, I'm not going to repeat my anti-lube argument all over again, but I will say this... if anyone ever can find a reputable trailer or vehicle manufacturer that recommends lubricating wheel studs prior to torquing them, I'd love to see it.
kmclemore wrote:Well, I'm not going to repeat my anti-lube argument all over again, but I will say this... if anyone ever can find a reputable trailer or vehicle manufacturer that recommends lubricating wheel studs prior to torquing them, I'd love to see it.
Everyone will have their own take..Can't remember reading in any service manual NOT TO (or TO) lube lugs. I usually find the torque setting....but not to lube or not to. I did find this on Popular mechanics (jives with what I was taught):
"it overstresses the fasteners and could make them snap off, which has potentially disastrous consequences. It's also likely to warp the brake discs, leading to pedal pulsation, reduced brake life and increased stopping distances."
Here's how to attach your wheels. Clean the mating face of the wheel and hub of any debris or rust. Wire-brush if you must. The wheel must sit absolutely flat. Then, lubricate. I like to use a thin film of oil or antiseize compound--this will make the wheel easier to remove in the future by preventing corrosion. Hang the wheel on the studs or bolts. If your car manufacturer does not prohibit lubing the lugs, put a drop or two of oil, or a match-head-size dollop of grease on the threads and chamfers. Don't use antiseize compound
Congratulations to Bob Johnson of BJ's Brake Shop, Grants Pass, OR, who correctly answered our June question, "Technicians A and B have both developed the proper practice of tightening lug nuts with a torque wrench when installing wheels. They both start by making sure the stud and nut threads are clean. They also both use the star sequence, initially hand tightening the nuts, then torquing to one-half of the specified value before tightening each nut again to meet the torque spec listed in the manual. The only different step they take is that Technician A puts a small dab of anti-seize on the studs before screwing on the nuts. Which technician is correct?"
Technician B is right. Technician A is probably over-tightening the lug nuts-maybe even enough to result in frequently warped rotors and pedal pulsation.
Torque specifications are routinely listed for use with "clean, dry threads." While it is possible to use anti-seize compound sparingly enough to avoid running and contaminating rotors and/or pads, treating lug-nut threads with anti-seize (or any other lubricant) is likely to result in over-tightened fasteners when torquing to the factory spec. If you feel you must use anti-seize on threads consult the compound maker's literature or website for instructions on revised tightening procedures.
I confess I have lubed studs and bolts on all my cars since Ive been driving.
Here is my take on this - if you are a salt water trailer user, there is no way I would not lube the threads as they will lock up tight and when you face your first flat, the probability is high you wont be able to get your wheel off.
I use a dab of Moly grease, and torque them by hand, I dont worry about losing them on a trip, since I have picked up a good habit from Chip - an hourly walk and check around the trailer, with lug nut check (by wrench) included
like i said everyone will have their own opionion...been lubricating lugs since i was a kid and never had a single issue of warped rotors, lugs falling off etc. I was taught (taking evening mechanic classes at the local high school) to make sure the lugs are clean and lightly oil them to get the proper torque. The few times I didnt do it, had issues with lug nuts rusting in place (this trailer, and my pickup). I don't overload it with oil..just put a dab on my finger and run it across the threads. Barely a drop or 2.
just got the replacement parts from waymire...looks good...bearings fit the rotor..bearing protector fit...
But the rotors were bare metal (probably like the stock ones). So i cleaned them, painted the hub and back with some expoy chassis paint. Hope to slow down any potential new rust.
Chip Hindes wrote:My guess is chassis paint will not hold up to the heat generated by the brake rotors.
Thought of that too..but better than no paint on it.. i didnt have any rotor/high temp paint handy, and it was the toughest stuff I had on hand. It is not like I am doing a concours restoration of a classic car.
