I'm looking at buying a 1988 Mac 26D that's for sale in my area(Southeast US). The boat is on the water(fresh water) at a marina and has been for about a year - I would keep it there and in the water. The price appears reasonable but there are a couple of things that I wanted some opinions on since I've been out of sailing for several years and b/c my last boat was a Hobie Cat. I went to take a look at the boat and found out that the electrical system(12V) wasn't working; it only works when the the outboard is running. Is this a difficult DIY job? The other hitch is that the owner says it's about time for bottom paint but is willing to pull the boat out of the water to let me examine it. He believes it will be fine for one more season. What should I look for to determine the urgency of new bottom paint?
We did go for a sail on the boat and everything appears to be in good condition. Anything specifically I should look at due to the age and/or model?? I investigated hiring a marine surveyor but there aren't any in the area and the ones I did manage to contact were too expensive considering the overall cost of the boat. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and opinions!
Pre-purchase advice...
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magiccity_02
- Just Enlisted
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Tue Jun 06, 2006 8:26 am
- Location: Birmingham, AL "Vado Lento" 1988 Mac 26D
Re: Pre-purchase advice...
This could just be a bad battery.magiccity_02 wrote:I went to take a look at the boat and found out that the electrical system(12V) wasn't working; it only works when the the outboard is running. Is this a difficult DIY job?
Growth?magiccity_02 wrote:The other hitch is that the owner says it's about time for bottom paint but is willing to pull the boat out of the water to let me examine it. He believes it will be fine for one more season. What should I look for to determine the urgency of new bottom paint?
You also want to look for blisters... I don't know how much you are paying for the boat, but getting someone to fix blisters, apply barrier coat, and bottom paint could cost more. But, just slapping on new bottom paint yourself cost time and whatever you pay for paint...
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Chip Hindes
- Admiral
- Posts: 2166
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 6:13 am
- Location: West Sand Lake, NY '01X, "Nextboat" 50HP Tohatsu
If you would post a more accurate location, somebody nearby might be able to assist you in person.
Assuming your electrical system is pretty basic; i.e., a battery recharged by the motor alternator, with the panel positive hooked directly to the batery, no switches, etcetera, the problem is almost certainly the battery. A new one is about $35 at WalMart.
Interesting about needing bottom paint but that it should be good for another year. I believe the life on most modern bottom paints is only about two years to begin with. Many believe that bottom paint is not needed on a trailer boat in fresh water, on the theory that pulling it out of the water and scrubbing it a couple times a year is less trouble than bottom paint.
It's easier to "get away" with that up here in the frequently frozen Nawth wherein the boat is only in the water six months a year and the colder water inhibits growth much of the time it is in the water. Again post your location and somebody in the local area should be able to advise you on bottom paint requirements.
Assuming your electrical system is pretty basic; i.e., a battery recharged by the motor alternator, with the panel positive hooked directly to the batery, no switches, etcetera, the problem is almost certainly the battery. A new one is about $35 at WalMart.
Interesting about needing bottom paint but that it should be good for another year. I believe the life on most modern bottom paints is only about two years to begin with. Many believe that bottom paint is not needed on a trailer boat in fresh water, on the theory that pulling it out of the water and scrubbing it a couple times a year is less trouble than bottom paint.
It's easier to "get away" with that up here in the frequently frozen Nawth wherein the boat is only in the water six months a year and the colder water inhibits growth much of the time it is in the water. Again post your location and somebody in the local area should be able to advise you on bottom paint requirements.
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magiccity_02
- Just Enlisted
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Tue Jun 06, 2006 8:26 am
- Location: Birmingham, AL "Vado Lento" 1988 Mac 26D
Thanks Chip & DLT. The boat is on Lake Logan Martin in Pell City, Alabama - about 45 minutes east of Birmingham.
BTW - here is a link to some photos...
Sale Listing, 88 Mac
BTW - here is a link to some photos...
Sale Listing, 88 Mac
Last edited by magiccity_02 on Tue Jun 06, 2006 11:46 am, edited 2 times in total.
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argonaut
- Captain
- Posts: 531
- Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 8:23 pm
- Location: '97 26X, Yammy 40 4s, Central Fla.
Sounds like you have a cooperative owner, a good sign.
If you've done any reading you know these are lightly constructed boats, don't expect it to be built like a Hunter.
Good news is it doesn't have to be. Mr. Holub owned one and might provide details to look for but these are simple boats, built lightly but tough enough for most anything you'll see. D & S model owners often alter the rudder, sometimes gudgeons need to be beefed up and the new shape gives better control. Check idasailor.com about that.
Popular mods include roller furling, and a bimini. Far as things to check I've seen word of problems with the ballast valve rusting, the threaded rod separates from the metal plate. That's underneath, you'd have to trailer it or have it hauled to see how it's doing. A "real" electrical system is probably the most popular mod, there was scarcely more than a battery in that boat. Also check the outboard, that can be a significant cost item.
If he'll give you a test sail and it doesn't sink it's probably OK.
These are fine sailing boats, one sailed away from me two weekends ago like he had his motor on. Most parts are reasonably priced and easy to get.
If you've done any reading you know these are lightly constructed boats, don't expect it to be built like a Hunter.
Good news is it doesn't have to be. Mr. Holub owned one and might provide details to look for but these are simple boats, built lightly but tough enough for most anything you'll see. D & S model owners often alter the rudder, sometimes gudgeons need to be beefed up and the new shape gives better control. Check idasailor.com about that.
Popular mods include roller furling, and a bimini. Far as things to check I've seen word of problems with the ballast valve rusting, the threaded rod separates from the metal plate. That's underneath, you'd have to trailer it or have it hauled to see how it's doing. A "real" electrical system is probably the most popular mod, there was scarcely more than a battery in that boat. Also check the outboard, that can be a significant cost item.
If he'll give you a test sail and it doesn't sink it's probably OK.
These are fine sailing boats, one sailed away from me two weekends ago like he had his motor on. Most parts are reasonably priced and easy to get.
Yeah, if you are going to store it on the trailer, then it shouldn't need bottom paint at all...
You mentioned that the electrical works when the motor is running. To me, that suggests that there is no wiring problem. With what you've said, I'd bet it just needs a new battery... But, it may not eve need that. Does the battery start the motor? Are you sure you have the switch(s) in the right position?
You mentioned that the electrical works when the motor is running. To me, that suggests that there is no wiring problem. With what you've said, I'd bet it just needs a new battery... But, it may not eve need that. Does the battery start the motor? Are you sure you have the switch(s) in the right position?
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Frank C
Hey Magic, welcome aboard.
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Sale Listing, 88 Mac
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Sale Listing, 88 Mac
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magiccity_02
- Just Enlisted
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Tue Jun 06, 2006 8:26 am
- Location: Birmingham, AL "Vado Lento" 1988 Mac 26D
Good info so far...thanks!
As for the wiring - from my initial inspection there are 2 batteries(12V and other??) and one is new(I believe the one that is supposed to start the engine). The outboard has an electric start but it does not work...not enough juice?? Pull start cranks easily and smoothly. There is a switch under the starboard bench to turn on the main power. I will be looking at the boat again and now have more questions for the owner thanks to you guys. Sorry, I'm not an electrical expert by any means but may be much more educated soon...
Actually, I will be leaving the boat in the water...too convenient and inexpensive not to.DLT wrote:Yeah, if you are going to store it on the trailer, then it shouldn't need bottom paint at all...
As for the wiring - from my initial inspection there are 2 batteries(12V and other??) and one is new(I believe the one that is supposed to start the engine). The outboard has an electric start but it does not work...not enough juice?? Pull start cranks easily and smoothly. There is a switch under the starboard bench to turn on the main power. I will be looking at the boat again and now have more questions for the owner thanks to you guys. Sorry, I'm not an electrical expert by any means but may be much more educated soon...
I have read that elsewhere. The rudder on this boat is a little beat up and I would likely look to modify it after I beat it up a little moreargonaut wrote:D & S model owners often alter the rudder, sometimes gudgeons need to be beefed up and the new shape gives better control