Repower and Repair or Sell?

[larryd97]

I'm at a bit of a crossroads with my second hand 2004 26M. In a nutshell, I need to decide to invest what it will take to make it "good enough" for me to be happy with it or get rid of it and just shop for another boat someday, even if it is another 26M. I enjoy the versatility of the 26M and just wish I knew what I was looking at when I bought this one.

The previous owner did not maintain it well - he had kids and never had time for it. It spent many years baking in the sun with no compounding / wax. The gelcoat is chalky and oxidized, and in some places non-existent. If you try to compounds some spots you just end up taking off paint.

The engine died on my last summer. I found out a month ago it's a lost cause. So, now I'm facing investing ~$11k for a new outboard on an old boat that looks old. The sails are original and the main is shot. It's still usable though in some places the sun has destroyed the material and it's starting to rip.

Below is my list of things I want fixed / improved long term.

• No motor - $11k
• Mainsail blown out and torn ($1k)
• One of the fuel tanks leak when heeling - would want a second BWY 17 gal aluminum replacement.
• Power connector at base of mask for steaming light is broken and I can't figure out how to remove it.
• The gelcoat is in rough shape and would take frequent compound / wax to keep it from looking like crap.
• The hull has barnacle scars that resulted in soft spots (I have no experience with fiberglass repair).
• Leaks in the rain and I have no idea where. Probably from the windows or rub rail.
• Interior cushions are in rough shape and smell moldy.
• The entire interior smells moldy because it leaks in the rain.
• Interior carpet pieces are gross.
• The autopilot was DOA when I bought it.
• The Raymarine S100 GPS died last summer - $1k
• The trailer brakes are broken (lines broke off, master cylinder leaks.
• Trailer needs to be re-wired.
• Bimini needs some TLC. Canvas is OK just the rigging.

All said and done this sounds like $15k-$20k to get her in the shape I want her in.

I don't mean to sound like a negative nelly, and it's not like I'm unwilling to get my hands dirty some. I don't even know how to do most of these things, and there are not many services nearby and the ones that are have long waits to get work done on a boat. I'm willing to do some work myself but in general I look at this as if I paid to have all of the work done that I want done would it be worth it.

Is it worth the investment? Thoughts or suggestions?

Thank you!

Larry

[Stickinthemud57]

This sounds like a boat that would be better for someone with the time, skills, and inclination to do the work themselves and/or put up with the current conditions.

If you can find one that comes without these problems (and it would take a good surveyor to find that out) for a price you can accept, then it sounds like that would be a better use of your money, with less hassle, and get you to sailing sooner.

[Jimmyt]

Is it worth the investment? Thoughts or suggestions?

Not $15-20k.

You could find a better boat for that kind of money; and be on the water much quicker.

Having said that, the reality of boating is; if it’s not brand new, you’re going to need to spend money and time on it. So, your hands are going to get dirty to some degree regardless. Buying a better starting point would get them less dirty.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

[leefrankpierce]

Sounds like you are describing my boat, I just use it that way, but mine is an X.

Like most things in life, if you did the work/enjoyment cost analysis, and the real $ cost analysis, we would never do anything.

Not a solution for you, but you are not alone.

[Jimmyt]

Sounds like you are describing my boat, I just use it that way…

Excellent point. A small kicker, good sails, and a bleach/pressure wash of the stripped interior would put it back on the water in better condition than several boats in our club.

Picking one or two projects a year is a way to eat the elephant one bite at a time…

But, I can respect not wanting to eat an elephant.

[dustoff]

From the pictures it seems the hull gelcoat is restorable, but you may need to repaint the black, but I don't think so.
This appears to be a boat worthy of being brought back to life.
The big ticket items would need to be replaced on any boat of this age: Outboard, sails, standing rigging, and running rigging.
The cushions can most likely be salvaged by thorough cleaning and replacing all the foam. Throw out the old rug pieces. They're no great loss anyway, and you can replace with synthetic flooring or DIY cut to fit carpet you can find on amazon. You'll probably have to use heavy duty carpet detergents and rent a steam cleaner to go over the interior carpet glued to the hull. Some people have removed and replaced this on the forum, but it is a major pain and project because of the adhesive macgregor used and the odd cuts and shape of the carpet pieces.
I'm pretty handy, and can do a lot of projects myself, but you'll should/need to pay to have the following things done by reputable vendors.
-New suzuki 4-stroke engine install: if you dont' have the cash you can get a loan for an outboard separate from the boat with separate title. $12K
-Hull repair, prep, and surface coatings: I would have a pro check for blisters/voids, fix ones they find, do an epoxy barrier coat, and do a two phase ablative anti-fouling coat. $2-3k
- Professional hull and topside paint restoration: Getting this done initially by a top-rated pro will allow you to maintain it yourself for years with an orbital tool. $1500-2k

Everything else you should be able to handle yourself. GPS, sails, rigging, upholstery, and misc seals & Stuff.
Commit to getting everything done over a year. Build a detailed budget and project schedule and get after it. Be sure to separate the must-dos from the nice-to-haves so it doesn't turn into endless project.
Good luck.

[larryd97]

Is it worth the investment? Thoughts or suggestions?

Not $15-20k.

You could find a better boat for that kind of money; and be on the water much quicker.

Having said that, the reality of boating is; if it’s not brand new, you’re going to need to spend money and time on it. So, your hands are going to get dirty to some degree regardless. Buying a better starting point would get them less dirty.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

I don't mind getting my hands dirty though I hesitate to take on big jobs that are irreversible without some mentorship. There's none to be found nearby. I live in a pretty remote area without a lot of marine services around. Available time is also a factor. I really like the versatility of the 26M. It's a fun boat and there's really no alternative on the market new or used.

[Russ]

You have to weigh your options.

New (ish) motor. Maybe pick up a used motor and slap it on.
The gelcoat is cosmetic. I've seen MUCH worse brought back to new with a little TLC.
Rigging stuff can be pricy, but not as bad as other boats.

It may be it's too much for you and another person might take this on as a great project.

Even if you just depowered it with a used motor, you could use the boat like many to as a trawler.

How much enjoyment would you get out of it? Is it worth the effort? The answer may be to pass it to another person. List it here in the classifieds if you choose to sell.

[leefrankpierce]

Are 2 strokes legal in your area?
Good prices on used, and gets you going again/

[larryd97]

Thank you for all of the suggestions. I'll spend some time putting together a plan and budget then decide if I'm going to move forward with fixing her up.

Do you have any suggestions as to chasing down the source of leaks above the waterline? When we get heavy rains I end up with quite a bit of water in the bilge. When I purchased the boat we put a fresh bead of 3M sealant around the rub rail but that's it.

From the pictures it seems the hull gelcoat is restorable, but you may need to repaint the black, but I don't think so.
This appears to be a boat worthy of being brought back to life.
The big ticket items would need to be replaced on any boat of this age: Outboard, sails, standing rigging, and running rigging.
The cushions can most likely be salvaged by thorough cleaning and replacing all the foam. Throw out the old rug pieces. They're no great loss anyway, and you can replace with synthetic flooring or DIY cut to fit carpet you can find on amazon. You'll probably have to use heavy duty carpet detergents and rent a steam cleaner to go over the interior carpet glued to the hull. Some people have removed and replaced this on the forum, but it is a major pain and project because of the adhesive macgregor used and the odd cuts and shape of the carpet pieces.
I'm pretty handy, and can do a lot of projects myself, but you'll should/need to pay to have the following things done by reputable vendors.
-New suzuki 4-stroke engine install: if you dont' have the cash you can get a loan for an outboard separate from the boat with separate title. $12K
-Hull repair, prep, and surface coatings: I would have a pro check for blisters/voids, fix ones they find, do an epoxy barrier coat, and do a two phase ablative anti-fouling coat. $2-3k
- Professional hull and topside paint restoration: Getting this done initially by a top-rated pro will allow you to maintain it yourself for years with an orbital tool. $1500-2k

Everything else you should be able to handle yourself. GPS, sails, rigging, upholstery, and misc seals & Stuff.
Commit to getting everything done over a year. Build a detailed budget and project schedule and get after it. Be sure to separate the must-dos from the nice-to-haves so it doesn't turn into endless project.
Good luck.

[Jimmyt]

My approach is to get one guy outside with a hose and one guy inside with a flashlight, going over the topsides in “likely spots”. Go one spot at a time, being patient. You can use baby powder in the bilge to help highlight drip paths. Paper towel, or toilet tissue can be used, also. Stanchions, ports, cleats, tracks, electrical sockets, rubber boots, bolt-downs, etc. are all spots that need to be bedded, and are subject to leaking. Leaks over the liner are particularly difficult. A borescope would be handy for looking through the bolt holes after popping the cover plugs out. Or… for looking in other difficult spots.

I’m sure others will have suggestions, too. This is just how I do it.

[OverEasy]

Hi Larryd97!

Sounds like there are a few things “cosmetic” and a few “like to haves” and a few “serious” items on your list.

Might I suggest first getting a gallon of elbow grease if you decide to keep her as this makes the process go a lot smoother.
Also engagement by your family before making a decision either way.
Making it a family decision might reduce some of the stress and angst hopefully.
I can’t/won’t say one path or the other is best for you… your boat/your rules.

If keeping I’d pare down the list on a few points…. These are just my opinions not gospel…

- the floor mats => I’d simply remove them now and toss them in the trash… they are obviously trash… just pitch them and move on

- blown main sail => I’d simply toss it… a sun bleached weakened torn failing main sail is a hazard… if it rips out under load it’s a hazard to you, you passengers and others around you on the water… you just don’t need to deal with that hazard because sure enough serendipity has given already given you a heads-up about the problem… repair isn’t really an option once the fabric ages out… at a later point in time you can replace it with another one (new or gently used) …. just pitch it and move on

- leaking fuel tank when heeling => Pull it out and find out where it is actually leaking… is it a fuel cap? The cap can be easily replaced… is it the engine fuel line fitting? It can be easily tighten or sealed…. Is it the fuel line clamp? It can be tightened…. Is it the fuel line? It can be easily replaced… is I a crack or wear spot in the actual fuel tank? Then appropriately drain it / flush it / air it out throughly and THROW IT OUT… there is in my opinion no valid or permanent effective appropriate way to repair a cracked or worn polypropylene fuel tank… just toss it and move on

- interior cushions in rough shape smelly mold => Are they torn? Failed seams? Stained/discolored? …. Now you have to make a choice…
—- If they are structurally sound might I suggest that you ….Take them out, lay them out on the driveway, spray them throughly with a 10-15% bleach solution on both sides, let sit for 20-30 minutes then rinse throughly with fresh water , rig a rope and hang them up to drain in the sun for a couple hours…. Then unzip them and carefully pull the foam out… let the covers continue to dry and air. Get a clean kiddie pool to throughly hand wash out the foam cores with a 10-15% bleach & laundry soap & laundry sanitizer liquid then throughly rinse out with lots of fresh water… hang up to drain and dry… Now take the covers and do the same… when very throughly dried spray everything with a couple cans of Lysol… let dry again then reassemble … yes the wash water will probably be black (ours were) and it will be a bit of work but our OEM cushions did clean up nicely and nearly all the stains/discoloration disappeared entirely. I’d AVOID the temptation to machine wash and do it by hand.
—— If they are not structurally sound or it’s not worth the hassle in your situation then simply toss them for now and get them out of the way… replacement can be a later purchase our DIY project
—- Note: We did both! The cleanup (and really enjoyed the results) AND we later chose to make a new interior layout and new cushions as part of that project.

- The auto-pilot is DOA … If it’s dead it’s dead… it’s not a necessary item.. it’s a limited use convenience for most folks.. remove and toss it or ignore it as it doesn’t matter for 99% of boating… you really don’t need to replace it or fuss with it… get rid of it and move on

- The Raymarine GPS is dead… if it’s dead it’s dead.. it’s not serviceable, just toss it… you can get an app on your phone or tablet like Navionics or other similar apps… or you can replace it at a later date with a new or gently used GPS … you don’t need much to use your boat … I actually use and carry a current paper/plastic map for the waters we navigate… just toss it and move on

- Bimini issues …. That just something to do… we all have had to do that at some point… you can get replacement straps or you can rig with new lines… not a difficult project… move forward

- interior smells possibly because of leaks …. Now that you have all the cushions out open up and remove all the interior covers and dry out the boat and bilges… a cheap WET/DRY Vacuum comes in handy for a lot of things… We have a little 1 gallon one that we use for lots of jobs in the boat, car, house & garage…remove or suck out any accumulated water… ventilate the interior with a fan … wear a mask if you find any mold or mildew… then spray everything with a 10-15% bleach solution and allow to dry… as you have a Mac26M with the wall carpeting I’d suggest you consider the Rent or buy a good hand steam cleaner vacuum and work your way through the boat with it and maintain good ventilation… yup it’s a bit of elbow grease… but well worth it to refresh things… personally we annually do a complete wipe down of our Mac26X with a 10-15% bleach solution and it makes it really nice for the season’s use… move forward

- leaks …. Fixing the window seals is a job but shouldn’t be a technically difficult one … it takes two people and some time.. to limit your efforts take some paper towels or TP and tape around the perimeters of the windows then hose down the exterior of the boat a window at a time with a garden hose while someone is on the inside to check & record when/wear any water leaks occur…. Address this windows first… personally I’d recommend that you use butyl ribbon caulk witch is available at places like HomeDepot (it’s one of the best sealants if done properly and is also easily adjusted and/or removable in the future… I’ve had to remove other sealants as they have repeatedly failed .. especially AVOID ANY SILICONE SEALANTS as they fail in marine environments and are a genuine PITA to deal with/ apply / cleanup … fix the one(s) that leak … move forward

- gel coat issues - generally a good wash helps a lot… this is a preference thing that is very individualistic … appearances are something you have to decide… the reality is some want a shiny new look and others could care less… I know folks who spend all their time prepping/waxing/polishing their car/boat/plane/motorcycle (or whatever) and never seem to actually use or enjoy using their toy… kind of a balance of life thing you have to decide for yourself… personally we spray down with a 10-15% bleach solution, allow it to sit for 10-15 minutes then lightly power wash from about 18 to 24 inches above surface (never closer!). We use the local DIY hand car wash most times as it’s there and all the soap/water/spray/brush stuff is all there (and the mess)… this is typically a 1-2 hour project… No our boat isn’t pristine but we also know it’s 20+ years old… but it’s clean and we really prefer to enjoy the using of our boat rather than having it as “an image” item… this is a ‘to each to their own item… move forward

- power connector at base of mast - … Are you sailing at night? Are you mooring at night? If not then this isn’t a significant item… move forward … If you are then it is something to deal with… the mast base connector on our Mac26X and wiring are accessible from the interior cabin ceiling via a couple of removable plastic cover disks … the OEM type replacement can be found from several sources but personally I’d suggest contacting BlueWater Yacht (the phone number is in the resource center I believe… not a complicated project that can be done in an hour or two with hand tools in most cases… move forward

- Fiberglass soft spots and repairs —- First question is are they reall blisters or delaminated paint build up? Check before you get too excited on this one as I’ve personally found that 8 out of 10 cases I’ve been involved with were not in fact fiberglass blistering but actually just delaminated paint (probably caused by a crappy cleanup prior to the initial bottom paint dirty application & without a barrier epoxy primer coat… check first by getting a putty knife/spatula and scrape at it to gently remove the paint and see what you actually have.
=> IF it’s just bad paint then that’s one thing and then it’s a simpler strip/epoxy-prime/bottom-paint project… simpler but not simple… IF you want to proceed with that sort of project then it’s a bit involved and would need a separate more in-depth discussion
=> IF it’s actually a Intra fiberglass blister then it can be repaired… it not too difficult and doesn’t need specialized tools of skills.. basic hand & simple power tools like pad sander… it’s a half day or so project type and is better discuss separately… move forward

- broken brake lines and leaking brake cylinder - Ok, this is a more serious issue… if you don’t have the mechanical skills it’s best to get this done by a professional with more experience, skills, tools and facilities… not insurmountable or generally too expensive… depending on what the actual particulars of the situation involved and what is found during the actual disassembly and work… ‘generally’ what you have described is a matter of time and neglect and there may be additional things that need to be addressed as part of the process so expect them and deal with them … brakes are critical to you, your family and a myriad of others surrounding you as you travel… yeah, it’s gonna cost but it’s something that can be accomplished … do it right … move forward

- crapped out engine - that’s a bummer fer sure… we’ve sorta been there/done that/got the T-shirt … while we chose to get a new Suzuki DF60AV for our extended cruising use that isn’t the appropriate answer for everyone… there are good used low hour engines out there for substantially less than the cost of a new engine… there are always people out there are people upgrade to larger engines… the Mac26M was designed for a max of 50-60 hp (although some have installed larger) so I’d suggest staying in that max power range to minimize costs…. If you are not cruising long distances there are going to be a variety of 2-strokes that can fit the bill… there are also going to be a variety of 4-strokes as well… don’t exclude dealerships as they are generally going to be a prime source of the good engines removed for power upgrades… they are also generally going to have the experience, skills, tools, facilities and parts needed to do a proper job in the least amount of time/hassle… this is something you can work on and get accomplished with a bit of effort and planning…. I’d suggest getting the other stuff above moving forward while you work on this aspect to get it accomplished within your budget and particular desires.


That’s enough for now as my typing finger is about worn out…
Hope this might be useful to you as you work through your process and decisions.

Best Regards
Over Easy

[kingtoros]

You have gotten a lot of very good advice. The consistent theme is, in one year, this is too much. But spread out, it matches just about what all of us put in. A new motor is a wonderful proposition. In the time since your boat has been built, you could get a 75HP motor instead of a 50HP it probably came with for no additional weight onthe transom.

I put in about $1-2k/year on various upgrades or maintenance on average.. can skip years and still sail just fine. After you trade out for the perfect 26M, expect to continue investing in it regardless.

If you sell it now, make sure you have a friend that has a sailboat!

How far is remote? Nevada?

[Ixneigh]

Gelcoat looks better than mine.

These boats used poor gelcoat due to environmental regs, or just to save money. Unless you find a garage kept northern boat, all the M models at this point will be having similar issues though maybe not as bad. I intend to re gelcoat parts of mine. I can use the best gelcoat and paint. I keep part of the hull painted because my use case is hard on the boat, and paints easy to touch up.
If I was you, I’d hire someone to do a basic clean. Throw away anything badly moldy. Then reassess. The boat needs to be clean anyway even if you sell it, unless you don’t care at all about getting a good price.
A used main is cheap. A gps is a few hundred. Used engine maybe three grand. Cabin leaks. Seal with silicone. Everything. It’s cheap and easy and takes about a day.
When I got my boat new it had leaks. I sealed all the hardware with silicon from the outside. I live on the boat half the year in all weather. Very few leak issues. Cheap dodge? Yea. Effective. Yes. I’ve had my boat 14 years now. Leaks? Silicon.
The cheapest M I’ve seen is 6000 (in fl) and it looked beat. It probably needs what yours does. Even a 20,000 m isn’t going to be perfect.

Ix

[fredsussman]

Larry, I completely understand where you're coming from.

I work with asset transitions at Peterson Acquisitions, and honestly, when the cost of repairs starts getting close to or higher than the current value of the asset (in this case, your boat), it often makes more sense to sell.

Selling it as-is can save you time, money, and a lot of stress.

If you want, I can also share some quick tips on how to position it for a smoother sale. Wishing you the best with whichever route you choose!