best bulwagga roller

[Dullboy]

In looking at the BRM-2 and the URM-2, it seems the BRM is a bit beefier, but with a shorter rear tang. With the length of the Bulls shaft, would be URM fit better?

Any ideas?

[Frank C]

I installed the BRM to properly stow a Claw, then switched to the Bulwagga. Since a BRM stows the Bulwagga no better (to my view) than the URM, I'd probably just use the URM. If nothing else, it's less awkward looking.

[Dullboy]

Thanks Frank. I haven't seen them in person and it's hard to really tell from the catalog.

[Frank C]

Here ya go - Stephen did this URM Mod page.

and here's an up close 'n personal of my BRM-2 mod page .... I'm paranoid about tying it down with bungee cords, to prevent any risk that it would come loose. It probably can't fall off, but it does rattle loosely up there without the elastic.

[Catigale]

The shaft of the Bull (called the stock IIRC) nicely fills the URM2 - there is a metal U shape band that also happens to stop the Bull from coming back and hitting the boat when it is stowed. When I trailer, I put a tennis ball on each 'fluke' to stop them from damaging the gelcoat. I live next to a middle school with tennis courts next door with a 15 foot high fence separating us - they send me spares regularly.

PM or EM if I can help with mod of course!

Tightening the forward bolt/nut combo was tough - needed a long extension on socket and a Princess to hold the nut up top.

The URM2 just fits in between the cleat and the forestay tang - I put it a bit closer to the tang, figuring you only struggle there once per trip (and not at all when you slip as opposed to trailer), while you use the cleat a lot more.

[Chip Hindes]

My version of Bulwagga storage.

The storage concept is great, the deployment and retrieval quite frankly suck. Also I've given up on the idea of a mod which would fire the anchor out of the storage tube like a mortar

It's on my list for this fall/winter to add a roller, but on my '01 with the stemhead mounted bow light, I have the added complication of moving that. I norticed in the mods some have added a bracket just above the roller, others have moved it up to the pulpit, some have added separate port/starboard lights to sides of the bow. I'd prefer the existing light on a simple bracket, but am concerned that will get in the way of deployment/ retrieval. For the pulpit mounted light, does the wiring go up through the stanchion or is it just fastened to the outside of the stanchion?

Can the light be removed from the outside or do you have to reach way up into the stemhead from inside, in which case it might be easier to just cut it off and buy a new one? Is there a big hole under the existing light which will have to be refinished/ sealed when I remove it?

I seem to remember a discussion on this subject several years ago, probably on the old board, but can't seem to locate it.

[Dullboy]

That's terrific guys, thanks. I can't imagine any problems, but if I run into issues, I'll definitely PM you, Stephen.

btw, we must be living right, I also live next to a Middle School tennis court. I never have a need to purchase tennis balls.

For the season, I went ahead and did your mod, Chip. I used a 2" diameter piece of PVC with a notch cut out at the top as you suggested. It's hose clamped onto the pulpit stanchion as well. I don't trailer far, so the PVC was adequate. As you say, Stores well, but deployment and retrieval suck. That's a capital S-U-.... well, you understand. Just about broke my thumb this past weekend holding the anchor wrong.

That was the last straw, and I will have the roller in place for next outing.

[Catigale]

Chip - my pulpit mounted NAV light wires run inside the stanchion





Say it aint so.....

Also I've given up on the idea of a mod which would fire the anchor out of the storage tube like a mortar

[Dullboy]

Ditto here on the wiring for the nav light.

I crawled up to look inside the bow, and I don't see the wires. Must go directly from the stanchion to the inside of the liner.

[Frank C]

You guys both have 2002 model, for which Roger finally moved the light and wiring to the pulpit. Chip and I have older boats where the wiring just ran thru-deck.

When removing my bow-light we snipped the wires just under the light base. It's still usable by simply soldering new wires to it, but I've never yet done so.

I figure some weekend I'll bend a piece of Home Depot aluminum flat stock to fit the pulpit tangs and mount the light just where the mast foot is trailered. Plan to extend wires outside the pulpit (the idea of running them inside the pulpit seems too much like torture).

[Captain Steve]

I mounted mine on either side of the cabin..in the black stripe, ala Duane. got a set of black perko vertical side mount nav lights for 17 bucks! seems to have a set listed on EBay, all the time. easy to run the wires back to the circuit panel.

[Dullboy]

Well, I went ahead and ordered the URM-2 roller. When it came in I had the feeling it was a bit small for the application. I hand held it in place along with the Bull and I didn't like what I saw.

Yesterday I drove across the metroplex to the West Marine store (wowzer, what a toy store) and exchanged it for a BRM-2. After returning home I hand held it in place and was much more satisfied. The drop roller and beefier head end looks to hold the anchor better.

Now, all I have to do is install it. I figured I would mark the holes and drill, bed the roller in 4200 and install the bolts with a backing plate all the while using 4200. If anyone has other thoughts, I would certainly welcome them. I'll post a picture as soon as I get this done.

[Frank C]

One advantage to the BRM is that it extends the anchor far enough that the flukes cannot contact the hull. I took that oppty, when mounting backing plate for the rearmost bolt, to mount an extra wide plate that also backs-up the cleats. PM if you need any suggestions.

[Tom Spohn]

When we had a '98 X, we mounted one of these:

Anchor Roller

It was very easy to mount and worked great.