Single Handed Docking Techniques
- Win
- Deckhand
- Posts: 40
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 2:00 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Birmingham AL 05 M 60HP Yamaha
Single Handed Docking Techniques
I have had my 2005 26M for a few months now and am getting familiar with the the eccentricities of docking a very light boat with any kind of wind across the bow. My prior boating experience is with a 20 ft ski boat with the helm at midship. I would like to learn the different techniques that have proven succesful for docking single handed.
I always have full ballast and usually have the dagger board down about a foot or so with the rudders up.
Does anyone have experience with a spring line from the front cleat led back to the cockpit? If so what is your technique for getting the line secured while also trying to man the helm?
I always have full ballast and usually have the dagger board down about a foot or so with the rudders up.
Does anyone have experience with a spring line from the front cleat led back to the cockpit? If so what is your technique for getting the line secured while also trying to man the helm?
- Beam's Reach
- First Officer
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- Joined: Sun Feb 27, 2005 1:25 pm
- Location: North Bay, Ontario, Canada 97X, 50HP Mariner 4 Stroke
First, put all boards down, fully... Yeah, this can be a hassle, but it is well worth it in terms of control... The Mac just doesn't control well at slow speeds without them...
With that done, the rest is easy...
Go slow.
Learn where the boat's pivot point is. Obviously, it is right at the dagger board, but you need a feel for how it will turn... Once you get that feel, you'll look like a pro...
The above suggestions will get you right next to the dock.
Then, with the motor in neutral, I just hop off and quickly secure the stern line. Normally, I can then just walk to the front and secure the bow line without any trouble... I also drop the lifeline and position the bumpers before we get to the dock...
If there is wind blowing the boat away from the dock, you'll need to either:
1- Run the bow line back to the stern so that you can keep control of the bow while securing the stern line, or
2- Rig a permanent line from one stern cleat, through both bow cleats, and then back to the other stern cleat. Run this line outside all the standing rigging. This gives you something to grab from any point aside the boat... This is what I did, and it gives you full control of the boat, while standing on the dock...
I singlehand all the time, even with a boat full of people. It is just easier than trying to explain what I want someone else to do...
At first, our dockings were quite the affair to behold. The last time, my wife actually said "Wow, you're getting good at this"...
[on edit]
By the way, War Eagle!
With that done, the rest is easy...
Go slow.
Learn where the boat's pivot point is. Obviously, it is right at the dagger board, but you need a feel for how it will turn... Once you get that feel, you'll look like a pro...
The above suggestions will get you right next to the dock.
Then, with the motor in neutral, I just hop off and quickly secure the stern line. Normally, I can then just walk to the front and secure the bow line without any trouble... I also drop the lifeline and position the bumpers before we get to the dock...
If there is wind blowing the boat away from the dock, you'll need to either:
1- Run the bow line back to the stern so that you can keep control of the bow while securing the stern line, or
2- Rig a permanent line from one stern cleat, through both bow cleats, and then back to the other stern cleat. Run this line outside all the standing rigging. This gives you something to grab from any point aside the boat... This is what I did, and it gives you full control of the boat, while standing on the dock...
I singlehand all the time, even with a boat full of people. It is just easier than trying to explain what I want someone else to do...
At first, our dockings were quite the affair to behold. The last time, my wife actually said "Wow, you're getting good at this"...
[on edit]
By the way, War Eagle!
Last edited by DLT on Tue Aug 16, 2005 7:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
I dock single handed a lot.
I recommend getting a good quality boat hook to grab the dock. I use the extendable boat hook from West Marine, extendable 4 ft out to 12 ft.
I usually set the boat hook at 8 ft long in the cockpit, motor in closer than 8 ft to the dock, use the engine to stop all momentum of the boat, and then hook something on the dock and pull in. Meanwhile I have both bow and stern docking lines in my hand and jump onto the dock as I pull the boat close enough.
The boat hook is really, really useful on windy days as the boat can move quickly on you while trying to dock.
Actually, for single handed, I prefer to dock empty ballast, especially on a windy day. It is much easier to pull the boat around with no ballast.
Hope this helps.
I recommend getting a good quality boat hook to grab the dock. I use the extendable boat hook from West Marine, extendable 4 ft out to 12 ft.
I usually set the boat hook at 8 ft long in the cockpit, motor in closer than 8 ft to the dock, use the engine to stop all momentum of the boat, and then hook something on the dock and pull in. Meanwhile I have both bow and stern docking lines in my hand and jump onto the dock as I pull the boat close enough.
The boat hook is really, really useful on windy days as the boat can move quickly on you while trying to dock.
Actually, for single handed, I prefer to dock empty ballast, especially on a windy day. It is much easier to pull the boat around with no ballast.
Hope this helps.
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jklightner
- Engineer
- Posts: 142
- Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2004 1:49 pm
- Location: Tacoma, WA
I have two 50' lines run from the bow cleats to the cockpit. I also have a 25' line from each stern cleat. This gives me flexibility as to which side to tie up on. Preping the boat for docking includes fenders over the side, rudders and centerboard down, lifelines down, and dock lines coiled loose. Normally they are secured when under way so as not to get caught in the prop. Slower is usally better, ease in and hop out with both bow and stern lines in hand. Cleat the stern, take up the bow and it will swing in. Go forward and secure bowline. I use the extra line to form a springline, usally to the winch. I've also come in, leaned over and toss a line around the cleat from the stern, turn rudders over to force bow in, then get out and secure bow.
- McSkipper
- Chief Steward
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- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 11:40 am
- Location: San Dimas, CA to Bullhead City, AZ
Docking the mac empty can be tricky as you've found out. I put the CB down 1/4 of the way and have the rudders down. When it's windy I will fill the ballast. She blows to easy for my skill level to compensate. Dock lines are in the cockpit from bow and stern as others have suggested.
I like the idea of having the boat hook available.
It gets easier with time and practice. In a short while you'll look like a pro until one day -
.
Skip
I like the idea of having the boat hook available.
It gets easier with time and practice. In a short while you'll look like a pro until one day -
Skip
I've found that even on windy days, it's easier for me without the ballast.
The reason is that the momentum of the boat with ballast full (additional 1500 lbs) is very strong. And in the wind, you have overcome the pull of BOTH the ballast momentum along with the wind force when the boat is being blown around. So there is an extra force you have to deal with.
I don't care if the boat is blown a bit more without ballast, because in pulling it in or pushing out, I only have to overcome the wind force. In my experience that requires far less strength and exertion.
This is just my opinion, and I would certainly recommend that if someone is comfortable with their technique, they should certainly stick to it.
The reason is that the momentum of the boat with ballast full (additional 1500 lbs) is very strong. And in the wind, you have overcome the pull of BOTH the ballast momentum along with the wind force when the boat is being blown around. So there is an extra force you have to deal with.
I don't care if the boat is blown a bit more without ballast, because in pulling it in or pushing out, I only have to overcome the wind force. In my experience that requires far less strength and exertion.
This is just my opinion, and I would certainly recommend that if someone is comfortable with their technique, they should certainly stick to it.
- Chip Hindes
- Admiral
- Posts: 2166
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 6:13 am
- Location: West Sand Lake, NY '01X, "Nextboat" 50HP Tohatsu
I dock singlehanded with a single dockline through the midships stanchion and onto the winch. Drop the lifeline, grab the prestaged line as you step onto the dock. A single loop around the nearest cleat will stop any residual momentum. A diagonal turn and a reverse loop to lock it and you're good. Works on any dock, any height. Works on a post if you have those instead of cleats. With a little extra effort to loop it through, it works on an eyebolt.
You can then add bow, stern and spring lines at your leisure, as needed; frequently they're not necessary.
Never seen anything easier or more effective. I really don't even have to study an unfamiliar dock; I know it will work no matter what the dock setup.
Only problem: Many of those who would lend assistance don't have a clue what to do with a single midships dockline; if you toss or hand it to them some just stand there and hold it.
You can then add bow, stern and spring lines at your leisure, as needed; frequently they're not necessary.
Never seen anything easier or more effective. I really don't even have to study an unfamiliar dock; I know it will work no matter what the dock setup.
Only problem: Many of those who would lend assistance don't have a clue what to do with a single midships dockline; if you toss or hand it to them some just stand there and hold it.
- John Skardzius
- Just Enlisted
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 6:58 pm
- Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Single handed docking...no (more) sweat!
Year one was full of (mis) adventures while docking single handed...gave the neighbours a LOT to tlak about. Then I was told how the local police do their docking....and I have used it ever since, even in 20kt+winds broadside to the boat.
My dock is starboard, the same techniqu applies. I poer in ballasted, all fins down all the way. I find that the center board pivot is worth the hassle. Approach the dock at whatever angle of attack the prevailing winds dictate. As I approach the dock I prepare the starboard aft dockline in hand. As soon as a pass the last dock bollard, I tie off the aft line and turn hard to port, giving the motor as much thrust as is needed to keep the bow tucked to the dock. I step off, tie off the fore dockline head back, disengage the motor and tend to the rest of post docking duties. This is also a good way of leaving a dock in a stiff cross breeze, engage the motor forward thrust hard to the dock, untie the forelines, get in, untie the aft dockline but keep it looped around the bollard/cleat/post until you are ready to go. Straighten steering or correct for crossbreeze. Reverse thrust, unloop as you pass the tie point, grab the line and you are off!
No more worrying about the boat drifting into the boat in the next dock, or throwing a line to someone who has no idea what to do with it. Approach a dock and say, "No thanks!" when people rush to help out!
My dock is starboard, the same techniqu applies. I poer in ballasted, all fins down all the way. I find that the center board pivot is worth the hassle. Approach the dock at whatever angle of attack the prevailing winds dictate. As I approach the dock I prepare the starboard aft dockline in hand. As soon as a pass the last dock bollard, I tie off the aft line and turn hard to port, giving the motor as much thrust as is needed to keep the bow tucked to the dock. I step off, tie off the fore dockline head back, disengage the motor and tend to the rest of post docking duties. This is also a good way of leaving a dock in a stiff cross breeze, engage the motor forward thrust hard to the dock, untie the forelines, get in, untie the aft dockline but keep it looped around the bollard/cleat/post until you are ready to go. Straighten steering or correct for crossbreeze. Reverse thrust, unloop as you pass the tie point, grab the line and you are off!
No more worrying about the boat drifting into the boat in the next dock, or throwing a line to someone who has no idea what to do with it. Approach a dock and say, "No thanks!" when people rush to help out!
single-hand dock
I dock single-handed all the time (26M).
I do it with ballast full, daggerboard down 1 foot or so, and rudders up. If conditions are very adverse and water depth allows, I'll drop the daggerboard all the way.
The wind and current dictate approach angle. If those forces are pushing me onto the dock, I come in very parallel. If the forces are pushing me off the dock, I come in at an angle (bow first) - the stronger the offsetting forces, the steeper the angle.
Since I have the rudders up, it is very easy to maintain the desired angle to the dock using the engine - with rudders up the stern slides very easily sideways (pivoting about the daggerboard).
I run the dock-side forward mooring line outside the shrouds to the rear cleat so it is ready to hand (I use a 30' line on the bow).
As the boat approaches the pier, I just use the engine to maintain angle and bleed off speed. If the wind is offsetting, then the final maneuver is to turn the wheel hard toward the dock and back down, taking off my angle and pulling the stern to the dock while at the same time stopping all headway. I step off the boat grabbing the forward dock line and make it fast, then the after line. This has to be quick because the offsetting wind/current will carry the boat away from the dock and into the boat in the next slip.
If the forces are onsetting, I just come in parallel about 2 feet off, stop headway, and let mother nature work for me.
An absolute rule on my boat, whether I am alone or have helper(s), is NO ONE EVER JUMPS TO THE DOCK. If you cannot step (a "hop" is ok if it is a low dock) onto the dock safely in control, then bail out and come around for another pass. With 50HP on the stern and the amazing turning radius of the 26M, I've never had a situation where I could not back out without hitting anything and set up for another try - which is the final lesson: Always have an escape route and plan!
- AndyS
P.S. The above tactics approximate very closely the docking maneuvers of most Navy ships...
I do it with ballast full, daggerboard down 1 foot or so, and rudders up. If conditions are very adverse and water depth allows, I'll drop the daggerboard all the way.
The wind and current dictate approach angle. If those forces are pushing me onto the dock, I come in very parallel. If the forces are pushing me off the dock, I come in at an angle (bow first) - the stronger the offsetting forces, the steeper the angle.
Since I have the rudders up, it is very easy to maintain the desired angle to the dock using the engine - with rudders up the stern slides very easily sideways (pivoting about the daggerboard).
I run the dock-side forward mooring line outside the shrouds to the rear cleat so it is ready to hand (I use a 30' line on the bow).
As the boat approaches the pier, I just use the engine to maintain angle and bleed off speed. If the wind is offsetting, then the final maneuver is to turn the wheel hard toward the dock and back down, taking off my angle and pulling the stern to the dock while at the same time stopping all headway. I step off the boat grabbing the forward dock line and make it fast, then the after line. This has to be quick because the offsetting wind/current will carry the boat away from the dock and into the boat in the next slip.
If the forces are onsetting, I just come in parallel about 2 feet off, stop headway, and let mother nature work for me.
An absolute rule on my boat, whether I am alone or have helper(s), is NO ONE EVER JUMPS TO THE DOCK. If you cannot step (a "hop" is ok if it is a low dock) onto the dock safely in control, then bail out and come around for another pass. With 50HP on the stern and the amazing turning radius of the 26M, I've never had a situation where I could not back out without hitting anything and set up for another try - which is the final lesson: Always have an escape route and plan!
- AndyS
P.S. The above tactics approximate very closely the docking maneuvers of most Navy ships...
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Frank C
Re: Single handed docking...no (more) sweat!
Sorry John, but I have no idea what you're describing there.John Skardzius wrote:My dock is starboard, the same techniqu applies. I poer in ballasted, all fins down all the way.
... Approach the dock at whatever angle
... As I approach the dock I prepare the starboard aft dockline in hand. .
... As soon as a pass the last dock bollard, I tie off the aft line and turn hard to port
... giving the motor as much thrust as is needed to keep the bow tucked to the dock
If your dock is to starboard
and you tie-off starboard aft line,
and you turn to port & accelerate,
the bow will not tuck to starboard ???
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Frank C
Re: single-hand dock
Exactly as my son taught meAndy26M wrote: I run the dock-side forward mooring line outside the shrouds to the rear cleat so it is ready to hand (I use a 30' line on the bow).
If the wind is offsetting, then the final maneuver is to turn the wheel hard toward the dock and back down (REVERSE), taking off my angle and pulling the stern to the dock while at the same time stopping all headway. I step off the boat grabbing the forward dock line and make it fast, then the after line.
At age 15, my son learned it in his Sea Scouts troop. He was so motivated by that experience, and attentive, that they made him helmsman on their 65-foot surplus AVR (some sort of mutha-big Rescue vessel).
I also prohibit jumping to the dock, especially from the bow since it's just about to pull AWAY from the dock as the boat goes parallel. It's much safer to step from the cockpit as the boat stops - and it always does stop just a step away.
- richandlori
- Admiral
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- ALX357
- Admiral
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properly restrained, i guess it's ok..
for instance, on retreival, when nosed into the trailer, i leave it in gear forward at minimum throttle to keep the boat against the bow-chock while i walk forward over the cabin and lean over the bow to attach the winch-strap, then i go back to the motor and shut it off, and raise it, before pulling the trailer and boat up the ramp. Otherwise, the boat floats away backwards while i am grasping for the trailer ladder or whiskers.
for instance, on retreival, when nosed into the trailer, i leave it in gear forward at minimum throttle to keep the boat against the bow-chock while i walk forward over the cabin and lean over the bow to attach the winch-strap, then i go back to the motor and shut it off, and raise it, before pulling the trailer and boat up the ramp. Otherwise, the boat floats away backwards while i am grasping for the trailer ladder or whiskers.
