Trailer Shopping

[mtnman711]

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Hey guys,

Long story short, I'm trailer shopping. I've been trying to educate myself and scanning the forum but wanted some opinions on things:

1. Has anyone tried roller bunks or know of a reason they should be avoided?
2. I'm drawn to a tandem trailer for a number of reasons - anyone have any experience to share?
3. Any major considerations when looking at trailers (i.e. dimensions/clearances)?

One that I have seen a couple times is this EZ Loader roller bunk tandem for a 26-28 footer. I found a decent one locally but wondered if there was a reason I should steer clear?

Thanks for your time and consideration!

- Devin

[kmclemore]

Well, my advice is that if you can't find a good original Mac factory trailer (check carefully for rust in the tongue)... I'd buy a trailer made specifically FOR the Mac, rather than spend time trying to make something fit. There's a company that makes very nice aluminum Mac trailers, and they've had very good reviews from our members here. They are available in single and dual axle configurations, and the price is reasonable considering it will be perfect for the job and you'll never have to futz with it again.

https://supersail.com/aluminum-replacem ... macgregor/

[NiceAft]

I’d like to be a little more specific to the question.

First, Kevin is correct,

Second, the Mac hull is rather flexible. I believe that is why it is not a good idea to go with rollers. The hull needs full support spread over a broader area.

[OverEasy]

Ditto Kmclemore if you can find/procure one.
IMHO:
The Original MacGregor trailer was lower for two reasons:
- lower center of gravity
- less travel depth into the water at the boat ramp to float the boat off/on
- aluminum is a great choice >>- HD galvanized is next choice
- NO ON THE ROLLERS! Too much point stress on a thin sailboat hull. GET BUNKS
The rollers were designed for boat with much ticker hulls….

Mind you our Mac26X came to us from the wonderful POs on a great SeaLion tandem axle galvanized trailer with hydraulic surge brakes.
We have modified it since to have 4 guide posts, a HD pivoting front Jack wheel, a bow keel V-block.
While the trailer came with a post mounted spare tire we added a second tire holder to the post to more readily carry the full diameter spare for our van which we tow with.
We modified the fender walkways the POs installed slightly to get better clearance from the hull as the 4 guide posts do that job better.
We have also adjusted the bow winch post fwd (to improve the tongue loading to a positive down force of 300 lbs to help ensure we don’t incur fish tailing when towing) and the height of the bow keel roller for better engagement at steep entry angles.
We also up graded to water-proof LED tail and side markers (great retrofit kit from Harbor Freight).
To pre-empt a possible issue we added a ‘swing keel catcher’ line to catch the swing keel should the lift line ever break or come undone.

On the “To-Do” list is to:
- add a utility box to hold chocks leveling pads and a Jack load pad (we also use our Mac26X for dry land camping)
- supplemental auxiliary waterproof perimeter courtesy lights (for those occasions when we are loading/unloading in the dark)
- addition of an ‘enroute’ batter charge line to help keep the boat batteries topped off when towing cross country

A thing we have done for years is to have a AAA Membership with the unlimited towing and RVs/Trailer option. One of those thing one hopes to never need but great to have when you do. We also have some overlapping coverage with our Tow Boat membership through BoatUS that covers us on both land and water.

Best Regards
Over Easy

Yes tandem

[Be Free]

I have a Magic Trail Signature (Magic Tilt) tandem axle aluminum trailer. It has two sets of bunks on each side. I'd stay away from rollers.

My trailer is the same age as the boat. The closest thing they are making today is the CA series tandem aluminum trailer. It looks a lot like mine.

Having a second axle has saved me more than once when a tire or even a spindle failed on the road. I've used boat trailers from this manufacturer for several boats over the years and never had a complaint. It also helps that the factory is not too far south of me in Clearwater. It was real handy when I replaced the axles. No shipping, just drove down and picked them up fresh off the factory floor!

[mtnman711]

Thank you all for the insightful replies - good points on the stress loading. I'll steer clear of rollers. Frankly I've put over 10k miles on this single axle trailer towing it to lakes all over the western US and never really had a problem until recently. I sheared the lugs on the driver side and, full disclosure, that was mostly my own fault for not double checking torque after putting new wheels on... could have been a LOT worse and I'm thankful I get to learn from the lesson. But I've always been a little nervous, especially on long trips, with not having a little backup and being loaded so closely to safe max of the equipment. One particularly loaded and long trip I rolled over a truck scale and found I had 4500lb back there... and I didn't really think I had that much on board. But for now I'll just focus on maintaining this trailer and keeping within safe loading; ensuring I have a full spare and tools to replace on hand.

Thanks again, guys!

Devin

[OverEasy]

Hi Mtnman711!

Yeah, a scale check can be a surprising experience 🫣 … all those little things add up!

Don’t give up on a tandem axle trailer is the price is right…… It isn’t really hard to swap out rollers for bunks… I’ve done it before.
The basic trailer frame is the key IMHO…
The removal of the bunks is generally just an unbolting operation (maybe spray the threads with some rust penetrating oil for a couple of times for a couple days if need be… I try to make things easy for myself).
The bunk bracket to frame bits can be found at many ‘real’ trailer stores (skip the pseudo shops … they generally only have trinkets, not parts)… There are also many on-line locations to choose from but your BEST bet can often be contacting the trailer OEM!
The OEM will often understand what you are trying to do, have the experienced advice, and the actual parts you need at a reasonable price (don’t nickel and dime yourself as that seldom actually saves much at all when all is said and done (been there/done that/have the tee shirt)).
The actual bunks are generally several good quality (minimal, or better yet, knot free) pressure treated 2x6x8 ft (which varies by your particular installation… hence the value of the OEM advice) which are wrapped in outdoor low knap carpet which one can get from a place like Home Depot, Lowes or Menards. One generally puts the carpet on the proper sized boards taking care to double layer the ends before mounting to the trailer brackets. I prefer to use lots of good quality 1-1/4 inch long Stainless Steel screws with Stainless Steel washers as they will last nearly forever in Salt or Fresh water to secure the carpet to the boards. (Yes I’ve tried exterior and galvanized deck screws in the past only to be disappointed). NOTE: The screws go only on the bottom surface away from the boat hull.

The brackets should be mounted to the frame with HOT Dipped Galvanized or Stainless Steel threaded hardware for ALUMINUM trailer frames.
If you get a GALVANIZED trailer frame JUST use HOT Dipped GALVANIZED threaded hardware, NOT Stainless Steel as it will adversely react with the Galvanized trailer frame.
The best time I’ve found to do the conversion from rollers to bunks is while you still have the boat on its old trailer. That way one can see the existing bunk spacing, lengths, locations (etc…) and wher you might like additional support bunks (more support the merrier).

I’ve generally only needed a half day to do the installation once I’ve had all the parts together (by myself … less time with experienced help). But it’s not a race, enjoy the process and the satisfaction of doing it.
NOTE: it Never hurts to ask questions through the forum or by using the PM function as for most folks this is a first off one and done type project and there is no sense in not taking advantage of experience.

Best Regards
Over Easy

[Gotro]

I have purchased the super sail trailer for my Macx single axel and have not had any regrets. No more Mac bumb for me . I absolutely love it. Yes it still comes up short when I pull it out of the ramp but the winch will pull the boat up close to the v bumber every time . The back bunks are opposite directions from the original trailer running long ways . I was the biggest gubber trying to load the Mac the first 1/2 dozen times , now most of the tme I walk it on then crank it the rest of the way.money well spent

[macowneril2015]

I have purchased the super sail trailer for my Macx single axel and have not had any regrets. No more Mac bumb for me . I absolutely love it. Yes it still comes up short when I pull it out of the ramp but the winch will pull the boat up close to the v bumber every time . The back bunks are opposite directions from the original trailer running long ways . I was the biggest gubber trying to load the Mac the first 1/2 dozen times , now most of the tme I walk it on then crank it the rest of the way.money well spent

I just received mine, any chance you could share how far offset are your rear uprights? I am pulling my boat out for the season in a few weeks and was hoping to get the new trailer set up.

[socalmacer]

Here is a picture of the trailer I purchased from Pacific trailer here on the West Coast. I purchased this many years ago after the factory trailer failed at the boat ramp. The tongue had rusted away from the inside out with little visible rust on the outside - look closely as they did not put a drain hole in for the salt water to drain out if I recall. Any way, I have been very happy with my Pacific trailer and looking at this trailer compared to the factory, you might agree Macgregor should have stuck to making sailboats. If I had to purchase today I would have gotten aluminum instead of the hot dipped galvanized steel. I've like the following on this trailer: 1)Boarding ladder, 2) Bracket at front that guides the boat into the winch, 3) Spare tire holder, 4) Vertical uprights in the back which help direct the boat onto the trailer, and 5)Steel brackets at the back that keeps the boat on the trailer. I did add stainless steel brakes including rotors at one point.

[OverEasy]

Hi Socalmacer!

Like those rear hull guides!!!
Any chance you could share a couple detail photos of them?
Maybe with a ruler or something to scale from?

Best Regards
Over Easy

[Gotro]

Two pictures of my 1995 Mac x Supersail single axel trailer

[kingtoros]

I cannot recommend Venture Trailer enough. I had a blowout on my travel trailer (RV) and since purchased a tire minder system that I move between trailers.

Turns out, when you lose a wheel it takes up to one hour to alert. Do you see where this is going? Such a beautiful day on Elk River, 70mph for an hour with a missing wheel..

I ... didn't ... even ... notice.

Until the alert, until I pulled over to find the below. Same problem, put new wheels on, did not torque properly apparently. I will never buy another brand, Venture Trailers out of Baltimore, MD.