ok first post in a long while.
sorry about lack of pics on the meetup with OverEasy, i am having trouble uploading them but i will figure it out soon.
the vessel is sitting in my driveway in vermont, and has been since that voyage.
since then, my daughter was born 8lb 9oz healthy on 9/22 and life has been a whirlwind. she is great, i am on 3 months family leave and my wife and i are keeping the wheels on the wagon.
as an airline pilot i am subject to reassignment, and i have been reassigned to Saint Louis MO. Instead of commuting and being away from my young family, my wife and i have decided to move to missouri. we spent the last two weeks driving to STL from VT and in our time there we located and got accepted on an offer for a townhouse in the city. cheers to her for pulling off 2000 mile round trip with a 6 week old baby.
anyway we are set to close on the home in early december, and of course the Mac is a consideration. there is a marina on the Mississippi River in West Alton MO called Harbor Point, and they seem to have a pretty sweet operation and the river has some interesting points up and downstream for cruising. however, actual sailing is probably nothing to write home about but i may be wrong and would love to hear from anyone that has sailed on the mississippi. Ive also come across Carlyle Lake about an hour east into Illinois from St Louis, and it seems to be a very active sailing destination for boats in the 20-35' range. several yacht clubs and the state park provide great access to the 22,000 acre lake. i found a place to store the boat outdoors for $25/mo a few blocks from the west access marina. so it looks like im doing a long distance drag! OverEasy suggested i spruce up my trailer with a new boat strap and he showed me how to properly seat the mac on the trailer with the truck brakes. im going to need a spare tire and to replace the beat up winch with a new unit with strap and hook.
anyone want to share stories, advice, caution on driving across country?
how about tips on how to rig for the road? stuff to secure for long distance travel?
i feel like i should remove the genoa from the forestay, and probably remove all rigging cables and store everything inside the boat?
remove the rudders and store inside as well?
is the motor going to be safe raised and sitting on the peg?
is the mast safe on the support alone or should i spruce it up with anything?
has anyone ever sailed on Carlyle Lake or anywhere within a few hours of saint louis?
i know Mark Twain Lake Sailing Association and Midwest Sailing have lots of good info, i would love to get as much advice and info as possible
i hope everyone is having a great autumn and in good health
thanks!
jeff
Newest owner of a 26X
-
TheLandlady
- Chief Steward
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2021 3:07 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: SOMD
Re: Newest owner of a 26X
2001 
2008 Mercury 50 2 stroke
2016 West Marine 9’ Dinghy
2019 Honda 2.3 4 Stroke
South Royalton, VT
Saint Louis, MO
Huntingtown, MD
2008 Mercury 50 2 stroke
2016 West Marine 9’ Dinghy
2019 Honda 2.3 4 Stroke
South Royalton, VT
Saint Louis, MO
Huntingtown, MD
-
OverEasy
- Admiral
- Posts: 3010
- Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2020 11:16 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: NH & SC
Re: Newest owner of a 26X
Hi TheLandLady!!!
Congratulations
on your Baby!!!
We are so HAPPY for you both as new parents!!!
You’re gonna do GREAT
Congratulations on the new Townhome in St Louis too!! You should have a great time there. Shouldn’t be as cold or as ⛰ mountainous as VT but you will definitely get seasons 
Not saying we are experts at towing by any stretch of the imagination but we have had three 1000+ mile towing trips with our Mac26X so far without incident. Here are a couple of suggestions for you to do with as you will:
A) Travel slower than the speed limit by 10 mph or more. (We don’t exceed 55 mph no matter what the limit) The reason is a Mac26X (or any Mac) tends to have a high Center of Gravity which helps also explain Rodger MacGregor’s trailer design of keeping the boat as low as possible. The load weight is about 3500 lbs with minimal stuff aboard. I believe the only braking on an original Mac trailer is your tow vehicle. Having 3500 lbs swap ends at speed with your tow vehicle is not a good thing in my mind.
B) Make sure your tires are within their date code and in good condition with plenty of tread and NO cracks in the rubber. You can look up the date code info on-line. Tires breakdown internally and separate their internal binding structure with time. Tires that sit for long periods of time, loaded or not, have this same problem as do tires that are used a lot. It’s a chemistry issue.
Tires with any cracking of the rubber are past their elastic life and the cracks have now exposed the windings and “belts” to moisture which accelerates their degradation and failure.
Tire pressures are critical! The seasonal temperature changes play havoc with this. Measure when cold first thing in the morning before sunlight has had a chance to differentially heat one side vs the other. Under pressurization leads to sidewall heating/degradation & possible failure. A single axle trailer is more susceptible to failure than a tandem axle system.
C) Check the frame of your trailer before any trip and ensure that it is not compromised (rust..dents…cracks). An original MacGregor trailer is what is termed an “optimized “ design (means there isn’t much margin).
D) Brake slowly, gently and early when towing.
E) Watch your vehicle and trailer combined loading. The DOT limits are there for a reason.
Watch your truck bed load to ensure you are getting sufficient weight on you front steering axle. Going to a CAT Scale and getting your boat/trailer/truck weighed can be well worth the effort (and eye opening!
).
F) Each outboard manufacturer has its own recommendations as far as up or down. The motor is more balanced weight wise vertically over the transom for most engines when in the up position and it gives you the most clear space under your stern when maneuvering before ground contact. Having it down makes a moment arm aft at the top line of the transom and an increased risk of a hard ground contact. The choice is yours. We wrap the aft most end with a red flag around the prop for safety (except when it disappeared on our trip home this time so we substituted a white plastic bag. This is so at night the guy behind you has something to be aware of.
(My favorite cover was one with a picture of Yosemite Sam and the words “BACK OFF!”
G)We personally like to secure everything as much as possible directly to the mast or better yet inside the cabin if possible.
When it comes to storage areas I’ve found it very beneficial to minimize any and all removable items on the exterior. Park in the most well lit, visible and trafficked area that is not on an inside corner to avoid theft, vandalism and yard rash.
A good lock on the hatch goes without saying.
A good secured cover tarp will help keep the elements at bay. Make sure it can drain away without making holding pockets for water/ice/snow. Kids play & beach balls are good to stuff under problem areas. Cover wrap & secure your engine. Make sure it is well drained by briefly dry running it to get all the water out from the cooling circuit and impeller before it has a chance to freeze.
I’ve also found it beneficial to pay a visit to the storage yard at least once a month to check up on things. It has allowed me to fix/adjust things before they become actual issues. (Like tires going flat…
).
Just suggestions to do with as you will.
Again CONGRATULATIONS!!!
Best Regards to you and your Family!
Don’t be a stranger!
Over Easy
Congratulations
on your Baby!!!We are so HAPPY for you both as new parents!!!
You’re gonna do GREAT
Congratulations
on the new Townhome in St Louis too!! You should have a great time there. Shouldn’t be as cold or as ⛰ mountainous as VT but you will definitely get seasons Not saying we are experts at towing by any stretch of the imagination but we have had three 1000+ mile towing trips with our Mac26X so far without incident. Here are a couple of suggestions for you to do with as you will:
A) Travel slower than the speed limit by 10 mph or more. (We don’t exceed 55 mph no matter what the limit) The reason is a Mac26X (or any Mac) tends to have a high Center of Gravity which helps also explain Rodger MacGregor’s trailer design of keeping the boat as low as possible. The load weight is about 3500 lbs with minimal stuff aboard. I believe the only braking on an original Mac trailer is your tow vehicle. Having 3500 lbs swap ends at speed with your tow vehicle is not a good thing in my mind.
B) Make sure your tires are within their date code and in good condition with plenty of tread and NO cracks in the rubber. You can look up the date code info on-line. Tires breakdown internally and separate their internal binding structure with time. Tires that sit for long periods of time, loaded or not, have this same problem as do tires that are used a lot. It’s a chemistry issue.
Tires with any cracking of the rubber are past their elastic life and the cracks have now exposed the windings and “belts” to moisture which accelerates their degradation and failure.
Tire pressures are critical! The seasonal temperature changes play havoc with this. Measure when cold first thing in the morning before sunlight has had a chance to differentially heat one side vs the other. Under pressurization leads to sidewall heating/degradation & possible failure. A single axle trailer is more susceptible to failure than a tandem axle system.
C) Check the frame of your trailer before any trip and ensure that it is not compromised (rust..dents…cracks). An original MacGregor trailer is what is termed an “optimized “ design (means there isn’t much margin).
D) Brake slowly, gently and early when towing.
E) Watch your vehicle and trailer combined loading. The DOT limits are there for a reason.
Watch your truck bed load to ensure you are getting sufficient weight on you front steering axle. Going to a CAT Scale and getting your boat/trailer/truck weighed can be well worth the effort (and eye opening!
).F) Each outboard manufacturer has its own recommendations as far as up or down. The motor is more balanced weight wise vertically over the transom for most engines when in the up position and it gives you the most clear space under your stern when maneuvering before ground contact. Having it down makes a moment arm aft at the top line of the transom and an increased risk of a hard ground contact. The choice is yours. We wrap the aft most end with a red flag around the prop for safety (except when it disappeared on our trip home this time so we substituted a white plastic bag. This is so at night the guy behind you has something to be aware of.
(My favorite cover was one with a picture of Yosemite Sam and the words “BACK OFF!”
G)We personally like to secure everything as much as possible directly to the mast or better yet inside the cabin if possible.
When it comes to storage areas I’ve found it very beneficial to minimize any and all removable items on the exterior. Park in the most well lit, visible and trafficked area that is not on an inside corner to avoid theft, vandalism and yard rash.
A good lock on the hatch goes without saying.
A good secured cover tarp will help keep the elements at bay. Make sure it can drain away without making holding pockets for water/ice/snow. Kids play & beach balls are good to stuff under problem areas. Cover wrap & secure your engine. Make sure it is well drained by briefly dry running it to get all the water out from the cooling circuit and impeller before it has a chance to freeze.
I’ve also found it beneficial to pay a visit to the storage yard at least once a month to check up on things. It has allowed me to fix/adjust things before they become actual issues. (Like tires going flat…
).Just suggestions to do with as you will.
Again CONGRATULATIONS
!!!Best Regards to you and your Family!
Don’t be a stranger!
Over Easy
-
Be Free
- Admiral
- Posts: 1974
- Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2012 6:08 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Steinhatchee, FL
Re: Newest owner of a 26X
Make sure everything is strapped down or put inside. You don't want anything to be "flapping" at highway speeds. Things that flap on the highway wear out, break, or break something else.
Service your trailer. Adjust your brakes (if you have them). Service your bearings. (You are doing this regularly anyway, right?) If you have a steel trailer look for areas with rust damage. Tap with a hammer and listen for a difference in sound. Make sure your tires are not worn or too old. Trailer tires usually die of old age before they actually show signs of wear. Inflate your tires properly. Check your lug nuts. Make sure your lights are working. Lock the coupler to the vehicle (don't want it coming loose). Make sure your safety chains are properly attached (in case it comes off anyway).
Make sure your tow beast is up to the task. All normal maintenance taken care of.
Stop along the way and check tire pressure, hub temperature and lug nuts. Make sure that nothing has come loose and has begun to flap (see above). Check the coupler, safety chains, and lights.
Don't be in a hurry. Be safe.
Service your trailer. Adjust your brakes (if you have them). Service your bearings. (You are doing this regularly anyway, right?) If you have a steel trailer look for areas with rust damage. Tap with a hammer and listen for a difference in sound. Make sure your tires are not worn or too old. Trailer tires usually die of old age before they actually show signs of wear. Inflate your tires properly. Check your lug nuts. Make sure your lights are working. Lock the coupler to the vehicle (don't want it coming loose). Make sure your safety chains are properly attached (in case it comes off anyway).
Make sure your tow beast is up to the task. All normal maintenance taken care of.
Stop along the way and check tire pressure, hub temperature and lug nuts. Make sure that nothing has come loose and has begun to flap (see above). Check the coupler, safety chains, and lights.
Don't be in a hurry. Be safe.
Bill
2001 26X Simple Interest
Honda BF40D
"If I were in a hurry I would not have bought a sailboat." Me
2001 26X Simple Interest
Honda BF40D
"If I were in a hurry I would not have bought a sailboat." Me
-
Be Free
- Admiral
- Posts: 1974
- Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2012 6:08 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Steinhatchee, FL
Re: Newest owner of a 26X
Looks like OverEasy beat me to it. All good advice.
And Congratulations on the new daughter (Don't know how I forgot that one).
And Congratulations on the new daughter (Don't know how I forgot that one).
Bill
2001 26X Simple Interest
Honda BF40D
"If I were in a hurry I would not have bought a sailboat." Me
2001 26X Simple Interest
Honda BF40D
"If I were in a hurry I would not have bought a sailboat." Me
-
787Sailor
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2020 5:09 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Kingston ONTARIO
Re: Newest owner of a 26X
For several years after I bought my Mac I trailered it about 1000 miles to our summer home and back every season.
In addition to all the great advice offered above, I would recommend a few simple mods to made trailering easier.
1) Build a mast support that mounts on the mast foot to support the center of the mast in the trailering position. It reduces the amount of flexing in the mast while trailering. I made mine out of an 18” length of leftover mast extrusion when I replaced my mast (don’t ask!) and some ABS Pipe connectors, but you can easily make one out of scrap wood.
2) No need to remove the standing rigging. Get a bunch of velcro cable-ties, coil them up and secure the side stays to the lifeline posts and the aft stay in the cockpit.
3) Disconnect the roller furling forestay from the mast and slide the whole unit up the mast until the furler doesn’t hang over the bow. Secure it and your halyards with velcro straps every 3-4 feet so that nothing flaps around. The first year I made a rigid support for the roller furling so that I didn’t have to do this, but it was always in the way and flopping around at inconvenient times. Moving it up the mast doesn’t add much time to the rigging/de-rigging process.
4) Get a bungee cord about 6 feet long with plastic hooks on each end. Hook one end on your stern mooring cleat, stretch it around the stern behind the raised rudders, and hook it on the opposite side mooring cleat. Holds the rudders firmly in the up position so they don’t bounce around and takes the tension of the uphaul lines.
5) Get a short but strong bungee to lock the steering wheel with the rudders centered.
I added a second axle to increase stability and reduce the risk in the event of a blown tire, but I think that is probably overkill for a one-time move as long as your tires are in good shape. I wish I could provide some pictures, but the boat is stored away for the winter now.
Good luck with the move.
In addition to all the great advice offered above, I would recommend a few simple mods to made trailering easier.
1) Build a mast support that mounts on the mast foot to support the center of the mast in the trailering position. It reduces the amount of flexing in the mast while trailering. I made mine out of an 18” length of leftover mast extrusion when I replaced my mast (don’t ask!) and some ABS Pipe connectors, but you can easily make one out of scrap wood.
2) No need to remove the standing rigging. Get a bunch of velcro cable-ties, coil them up and secure the side stays to the lifeline posts and the aft stay in the cockpit.
3) Disconnect the roller furling forestay from the mast and slide the whole unit up the mast until the furler doesn’t hang over the bow. Secure it and your halyards with velcro straps every 3-4 feet so that nothing flaps around. The first year I made a rigid support for the roller furling so that I didn’t have to do this, but it was always in the way and flopping around at inconvenient times. Moving it up the mast doesn’t add much time to the rigging/de-rigging process.
4) Get a bungee cord about 6 feet long with plastic hooks on each end. Hook one end on your stern mooring cleat, stretch it around the stern behind the raised rudders, and hook it on the opposite side mooring cleat. Holds the rudders firmly in the up position so they don’t bounce around and takes the tension of the uphaul lines.
5) Get a short but strong bungee to lock the steering wheel with the rudders centered.
I added a second axle to increase stability and reduce the risk in the event of a blown tire, but I think that is probably overkill for a one-time move as long as your tires are in good shape. I wish I could provide some pictures, but the boat is stored away for the winter now.
Good luck with the move.
-
TheLandlady
- Chief Steward
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2021 3:07 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: SOMD
Re: Newest owner of a 26X
great stuff, ive got my order from bwyachts on the way, i'll update as i cruise along.
outdoor storage yard in Carlyle IL has a spot for me for $25/mo, cant beat that on the east coast!
jeff
outdoor storage yard in Carlyle IL has a spot for me for $25/mo, cant beat that on the east coast!
jeff
2001
2008 Mercury 50 2 stroke
2016 West Marine 9’ Dinghy
2019 Honda 2.3 4 Stroke
South Royalton, VT
Saint Louis, MO
Huntingtown, MD
2008 Mercury 50 2 stroke
2016 West Marine 9’ Dinghy
2019 Honda 2.3 4 Stroke
South Royalton, VT
Saint Louis, MO
Huntingtown, MD
-
Jimmyt
- Admiral
- Posts: 3402
- Joined: Sat Jul 18, 2015 9:52 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Mobile AL 2013 26M, 60 Etec
Re: Newest owner of a 26X
Congratulations on the birth of your daughter! What a blessing!
Jimmyt
P-Cub-Boo
2013 26M, Etec 60, roller Genoa, roller main
Cruising Waters: Mobile Bay, Western Shore, Fowl River
P-Cub-Boo
2013 26M, Etec 60, roller Genoa, roller main
Cruising Waters: Mobile Bay, Western Shore, Fowl River
Re: Newest owner of a 26X
Old post I know but I just joined today. I live in Missouri and from Monroe County. If you live in St Louis you might want to try Mark Twain Lake. Lot's of folks from STL use storage there and the lake is very quiet compared to Lake of the Ozarks.
-
Russ
- Admiral
- Posts: 8398
- Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2007 12:01 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Bozeman, Montana "Luna Azul" 2008 M 70hp Suzi
-
TheLandlady
- Chief Steward
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2021 3:07 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: SOMD
Re: Newest owner of a 26X
Reactivating an old thread…
I’m probably not the newest 26x owner anymore but I’m still pretty green!
It’s 2023, I’ve got a new job flying jets, our baby is a happy maniac who eats like her dad, and Saint Louis’ winter has been much more mild than last year.
As for the boat et al: my 2008 50hp merc motor has been inspected and found to be “marvelous” by the team at Dupo Marine. Compression was better than ideal. They rebuilt the carb and threw in a new water pump and did an overall tune up. The gas in my tanks and line/bulb was rotten, so I donated it to some local mechanics but held on to the 9&3gal TEMPO tanks. they still have some splashes inside but I figure diluting by filling with some fresh fuel should be ok. I looked into replacing them but some quick research has shown me that would be a terrible idea with current EPA war against outboards. Any advice on cleaning and maybe restoring the gaskets would be welcome. The new gray fuel line is way more stiff than the old black one, bummer but it is what it is.
I still haven’t sailed yet in the Midwest, what with setting up our house and having a toddler and going through indoc and a type rating with a new company and all… but last summer I fixed the issue with my throttle control by replacing the broken plastic cylinder inside the box with some rubber hose and screw clamps. Works like a charm.
Had the bias ply tires replaced with SBR on the trailer, including a new spare, and got the bearings repacked.
Ram 3500 is getting new rear axle seals and I finally fixed the “lack of right brake/turn indicator” issue on all of my various trailers that has plagued it for years.
On 2/25 I’m dragging Seaweed (aka The Landlady, still haven’t done a name change ceremony) along with my young family down from STL to SRQ for three weeks in the sun at an Airbnb with a dock on Sarasota Bay. What better way to kick off the year than that?
Plenty of time to tool around with some new BWY toys to install, including a boomjack, whisker pole, gib sock w/tensioner, transom filler, anchor light, canvas fuel well covers, and a keel line upgrade. Possibly looking at halyards aft, new sheets and halyards, outhaul, down haul, single line reef, clamp on fishing rod mounts (looking for recommendations), stern US ensign pole (that plugs into a rod holder), new carpet on the trailer bunks, and (most importantly) a burgee halyard on the starboard spreader. New sails may also be on the horizon but I’m not a racer and they don’t have any holes yet.
Speaking of the burgee halyard… I have some ideas. Johnson makes that little kit with the block and strap eye, 40 feet of 3/16” line, flag clips and a shroud cleat. The kit looks nice and if anyone uses one I’d appreciate a review, especially on the 40’ line length being adequate, but I am also thinking of getting a little more creative and just buying the johnson shroud cleat and clips while sourcing a small wooden/brass block on eBay for the aesthetic and so I can say I have a little wood on the boat.
I’m wondering what size is appropriate for the block, I’ve seen quite a few on there in several sizes but I’ve got my eye on one that’s got a 1&3/4” brass wheel, block is about 2&3/16” wide, 1&9/16” thick, 3&3/8” long with the eye, and has clearance for a 3/8” line. Wondering if that block is too big for a 3/16” line, or is more room to wiggle better than too little, as I’ve seen on several smaller blocks (think keychain size) or also how it compares in size to the johnson block. Is 3/16” the best line for this use, and would 3/8” be too thick?
Additionally I’d like to get a custom burgee made up for the boat, and wondering about proper size on that. One site I found listed 10”x15” as appropriate for a 24’ powerboat or a mast height up to 30’, and 12”x18” for a 25’-28’ powerboat/mast 31’-36’. It’s a 26x, 25’ LOA and the mast is 28’, but I guess 32’+/- off the water… any thoughts??
Cheers to all, happy new year!
I’m probably not the newest 26x owner anymore but I’m still pretty green!
It’s 2023, I’ve got a new job flying jets, our baby is a happy maniac who eats like her dad, and Saint Louis’ winter has been much more mild than last year.
As for the boat et al: my 2008 50hp merc motor has been inspected and found to be “marvelous” by the team at Dupo Marine. Compression was better than ideal. They rebuilt the carb and threw in a new water pump and did an overall tune up. The gas in my tanks and line/bulb was rotten, so I donated it to some local mechanics but held on to the 9&3gal TEMPO tanks. they still have some splashes inside but I figure diluting by filling with some fresh fuel should be ok. I looked into replacing them but some quick research has shown me that would be a terrible idea with current EPA war against outboards. Any advice on cleaning and maybe restoring the gaskets would be welcome. The new gray fuel line is way more stiff than the old black one, bummer but it is what it is.
I still haven’t sailed yet in the Midwest, what with setting up our house and having a toddler and going through indoc and a type rating with a new company and all… but last summer I fixed the issue with my throttle control by replacing the broken plastic cylinder inside the box with some rubber hose and screw clamps. Works like a charm.
Had the bias ply tires replaced with SBR on the trailer, including a new spare, and got the bearings repacked.
Ram 3500 is getting new rear axle seals and I finally fixed the “lack of right brake/turn indicator” issue on all of my various trailers that has plagued it for years.
On 2/25 I’m dragging Seaweed (aka The Landlady, still haven’t done a name change ceremony) along with my young family down from STL to SRQ for three weeks in the sun at an Airbnb with a dock on Sarasota Bay. What better way to kick off the year than that?
Plenty of time to tool around with some new BWY toys to install, including a boomjack, whisker pole, gib sock w/tensioner, transom filler, anchor light, canvas fuel well covers, and a keel line upgrade. Possibly looking at halyards aft, new sheets and halyards, outhaul, down haul, single line reef, clamp on fishing rod mounts (looking for recommendations), stern US ensign pole (that plugs into a rod holder), new carpet on the trailer bunks, and (most importantly) a burgee halyard on the starboard spreader. New sails may also be on the horizon but I’m not a racer and they don’t have any holes yet.
Speaking of the burgee halyard… I have some ideas. Johnson makes that little kit with the block and strap eye, 40 feet of 3/16” line, flag clips and a shroud cleat. The kit looks nice and if anyone uses one I’d appreciate a review, especially on the 40’ line length being adequate, but I am also thinking of getting a little more creative and just buying the johnson shroud cleat and clips while sourcing a small wooden/brass block on eBay for the aesthetic and so I can say I have a little wood on the boat.
I’m wondering what size is appropriate for the block, I’ve seen quite a few on there in several sizes but I’ve got my eye on one that’s got a 1&3/4” brass wheel, block is about 2&3/16” wide, 1&9/16” thick, 3&3/8” long with the eye, and has clearance for a 3/8” line. Wondering if that block is too big for a 3/16” line, or is more room to wiggle better than too little, as I’ve seen on several smaller blocks (think keychain size) or also how it compares in size to the johnson block. Is 3/16” the best line for this use, and would 3/8” be too thick?
Additionally I’d like to get a custom burgee made up for the boat, and wondering about proper size on that. One site I found listed 10”x15” as appropriate for a 24’ powerboat or a mast height up to 30’, and 12”x18” for a 25’-28’ powerboat/mast 31’-36’. It’s a 26x, 25’ LOA and the mast is 28’, but I guess 32’+/- off the water… any thoughts??
Cheers to all, happy new year!
2001
2008 Mercury 50 2 stroke
2016 West Marine 9’ Dinghy
2019 Honda 2.3 4 Stroke
South Royalton, VT
Saint Louis, MO
Huntingtown, MD
2008 Mercury 50 2 stroke
2016 West Marine 9’ Dinghy
2019 Honda 2.3 4 Stroke
South Royalton, VT
Saint Louis, MO
Huntingtown, MD
-
TheLandlady
- Chief Steward
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2021 3:07 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: SOMD
Re: Newest owner of a 26X
Definitely looking to head up to MTL this summer, been watching some YouTube of a 26x based there and it seems like a killer spot
2001
2008 Mercury 50 2 stroke
2016 West Marine 9’ Dinghy
2019 Honda 2.3 4 Stroke
South Royalton, VT
Saint Louis, MO
Huntingtown, MD
2008 Mercury 50 2 stroke
2016 West Marine 9’ Dinghy
2019 Honda 2.3 4 Stroke
South Royalton, VT
Saint Louis, MO
Huntingtown, MD
-
NiceAft
- Admiral
- Posts: 6794
- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 7:28 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Upper Dublin,PA, USA: 2005M 50hp.Honda4strk.,1979 Phantom Sport Sailboat, 9'Achilles 6HP Merc 4strk
Re: Newest owner of a 26X
Landlady,
I have a question for you; what was the solution to this?
I have a question for you; what was the solution to this?
I finally fixed the “lack of right brake/turn indicator” issue on all of my various trailers that has plagued it for years.
Ray ~~_/)~~