What is this piece in the brake system?

[green]

I was inspecting the 2004 MACG trailer for my new to me 2005 and I stumbled upon a piece of metal jammed in this slot with electrical tape wrapped around it.



There was not one on the other side, and it seemed like this would prevent the brakes from engaging so I removed it.



Any idea why someone would have done this? The previous owner doesn’t know. Trying to find out if there is a problem before I trailer the boat for the first time. Rest of the trailer looks great. Repaired a few loose light wires but otherwise solid.

[Jimmyt]

You are correct. That will defeat the trailer braking system. There was probably a factory piece that came with the trailer to serve the purpose when backing uphill, or otherwise against a load. Removing it should allow your brakes to engage normally when going forward.

You should have a 5-wire connector for your trailer lights. The 5th wire should go to a brake lockout solenoid in the coupling/brake master cylinder assembly (that’s how mine is wired anyway). If yours only has 4-wires, the mechanical lockout will be required when backing the trailer against a load (uphill, over a bump, etc).

The only “gotcha” I can think of is, the brakes were on their way out; and some PO decided to lock them out to keep them from engaging.

This is what my factory lockout looks like - FYI.

[Be Free]

I agree with Jimmy re: the function of the piece you found. It will prevent the surge brakes from engaging. You will want to remove it before you trailer the boat if you need the brakes to work.

If you have a five wire harness then the fifth wire is for the reverse lock out. If you do have one, make sure it is working properly or you may not be able to back your boat up without locking the brakes (unless you take the mystery piece with you )

If you only have a four wire harness on the trailer then there will be a mechanical lockout or you will have drum brakes that are specifically designed to not fully engage when backing.

It's also important that you check the condition of the brakes (drum or disc), the condition of the wheel bearings, the hangers, springs, and u-bolts that are holding everything under the trailer together. Don't forget to check the date code on the tires and tire pressure as well. If it is a steel trailer give it a thorough examination with a hammer to verify that there are no hidden problems in the tongue and frame.e

Take the time to verify the condition of your trailer and all of its systems in your driveway or it may insist on showing what was wrong on the highway.

[green]

Very helpful Jimmy and Bill. Thanks.

I have a five pin. We noticed the blue wire to the breaks was disconnected so we reconnected it. Maybe the previous owner did not have reverse lock out on their vehicle?

I’m new to trailers so I appreciate the info.

[Russ]

(from another thread) Here is a link to another lockout "key".



It prevents travel during "surges"
There is a video on the listing that demonstrates how it works.

As mentioned above, I'd be curious WHY would the P/O do this? Is there a problem with the brakes?

[Be Free]

Very helpful Jimmy and Bill. Thanks.

I have a five pin. We noticed the blue wire to the breaks was disconnected so we reconnected it. Maybe the previous owner did not have reverse lock out on their vehicle?

I’m new to trailers so I appreciate the info.

If the PO had a 4 pin connector on the tow vehicle and used an adapter to allow it to connect to the 5 pin trailer connector he would not have been able to energize the reverse lock solenoid so he resorted to the manual lockout you discovered.

Another possibility is that the lock out solenoid is not working. You need to verify that the electrical lockout is working or provide a manual lockout process.

[bubby-joe]

I know it's an old post but the item you removed locks the brake master from applying the brake when your backing up on level ground, when backing down most ramps the brake does not come into play but on level ground the push on the master applies the brake and makes backing a problem. I worked RV/s for years and a lot of boat trailers, the lockout makes backing up a lot easier.

[NiceAft]

If the lockout key is lost, and you need one because your brakes lock while backing up, a nickel will work as an override.

[Russ]

I know it's an old post but the item you removed locks the brake master from applying the brake when your backing up on level ground, when backing down most ramps the brake does not come into play but on level ground the push on the master applies the brake and makes backing a problem. I worked RV/s for years and a lot of boat trailers, the lockout makes backing up a lot easier.

Anything that will depress the plunger in the trailer tongue will engage the brakes. On pure level ground, mine doesn't engage much, especially if the trailer is empty. Backing up any kind of hill will depress the brake plunger and stop the trailer for me.

Also, there is a 5th wire in the harness for reverse that is supposed to disengage the brakes. My wiring is only 4 wire so I've never tested this.

The nickel would work or I used a fat washer to lock it out.

[BOAT]

Yeah, we had a sour surprise on our last trip out with that thing. My wife had accidently stepped on the connector and I was not aware the blue wire connection to the reverse lights broke off. We launched the boat without incident and I parked the car and trailer as usual - the place where we park is nose in and a curb and sidewalk is in front. Some of the spaces have benches or lamp posts in front of your car too so when it's time to go get your boat or leave your spot after breaking down you MUST go backwards to leave.



So I parked and off we went - sailed away for a week up the coast to Dana Point and Newport and points north. Got back a week later and backed the empty trailer down the ramp without issues - retrieved our boat and re-parked back in our NOSE IN ONLY parking spot. After getting the mast down and all the other stuff I was really tired and jumped behind the wheel to head home. Put the Jeep in reverse to back out and NO GO! The trailer would not move. I tried but even with all 4 wheels pushing backwards the entire rear of the Jeep just started going up in the air - the boat was not gonna move!!!

CRAP!

So, I have that little metal thngy you guys are talking about in this post!! It came with the boat and I never thought about it but I have it right there in a tray with all the hitch locks and stuff so I grab it to put it in that space your all talking about but the breaks are ON and the space is not there because that big round post thing is blocking the space to put the metal thingy!!

I can't put the metal thing in until I can pull forward and get the hitch to slide so the brakes are OFF!! The Jeep is parked with the curb and sidewalk right against the front tires! Well, it's a good thing we are in a Jeep, so I just drive right up over the curb and over the sidewalk!

Man, did that look stupid - I hope no one saw me.

After pulling forward I was able to put in the metal thingy but it also occurred to me: "What if I were blocked from going forward because of a bench or wall or lamp post??"

Would un-hitching fix the issue? Can you make the hitch brakes slide into OFF position unhitched?? Is that possible??

[Be Free]

Boat,
Yes, you could disconnect the trailer and pull on the coupler to slide it forward so you can engage the lockout. You did not have a problem backing down the ramp because gravity would have been doing most of the work for you preventing the coupler from compressing and engaging your brakes. I suspect that your "nose in" parking spot required you to back uphill to exit it.

I'm glad you had the right part with you and that you had the awareness to use it.

I envy you getting away for a week. I spent the last couple of months modding the interior and electrical. I finished up just in time for Ivan

[Russ]

When I put my boat away in the storage lot, my son discovered the C Retainer Ring was broken. (sorry no pic). I wonder what would happen if this thing completely failed?

It's this (red arrow) clip below.

[Be Free]

The shaft that it is keeping from falling out might fall out and then your brakes would no longer work.

[BOAT]

When I put my boat away in the storage lot, my son discovered the C Retainer Ring was broken. (sorry no pic). I wonder what would happen if this thing completely failed?

It's this (red arrow) clip below.

I guess the tounge slides out of the trailer and you go to the ramp without the boat?

[Jimmyt]

I guess the tounge slides out of the trailer and you go to the ramp without the boat?

I hate it when that happens.