Access port for fuel separator?

[JeffJuneau]

Finally getting to my Mac 26M projects to get it into the water sometime before it starts snowing again here in Juneau. I purchased a Suzuki fuel filter/separator for my DF70A. I liked the smallish profile, and the dealer said that it was the separator they install for my 70hp Suzuki. I found a July 2020 image that Highlander posted with his identical or nearly identical separator mounted to his engine well on the starboard side. I apologize that I couldn't get his image file to a size that it would let me post it. I want my filter to be at the same location as his, but on the port side. I don’t see an easy way to get behind the fiberglass wall to attach the hardware. Does that mean my only option is to first, install an access port, again, like the one shown in Highlander’s photos? Thanks!
Jeff Hartman
Juneau, AK

[OverEasy]

Hi JeffJuneau!

I just mounted my new fuel distribution system on our MAC26X.

It is a similarly sized filter/ separator as you describe.

While we chose to mount our system with a fuel tank selector, primer bulb and filter on a PVC Board the attachment pieces I think you are looking for are called “Well Nuts”.
These are available in a variety of sizes.
I would suggest getting the 1/4-20 or larger size and at least an inch insertion depth.

The image came from Lowe’s but Home Depot or other hardware source such as the many on-line ones also carry them.
Use the smallest size drill available to ensure a TIGHT FIT when inserted into the fiberglass.
Apply a little bit of 5200 adhesive sealant to the hole and to the back side of the rubber flange so it both seals and stays in place should you need to remove it in the future for some reason or other.

Insert the bolt and tighten until tight. I’d suggest practicing out in the open on a similar thickness piece to simulate your hull so you can see how it works before doing this on your boat if you are not familiar with these items. A washer will do.



When installing use SST for the screws or bolts, SST washers and lock washers.
I WOULD NOT recommend use of any Locktite or other thread lock compound.

It will form a water tight interface if you use a small hole and work the well nut in tightly.

Best Regards,
Over Easy

[JeffJuneau]

Thank you OverEasy, That is exactly the type of solution I was looking for. So relieved that there is a much easier approach than installing an access port. I don't know if you have posted images of how you arranged your fuel valve and primer bulb locations, but your solution may work better than what I had planned with just switching the quick disconnect line from one tank to the other. Jeff

[OverEasy]

Hi JeffJuneau

Attached is the rough schematic of our fuel system as installed.

We have 2 each 12 gallon Moeller low profile fuel tanks. One on each side.
We modified the fuel cubbys by enlarging the openings and adding through hatches pin the benches to access them for refueling and to check fuel quantity. These work like a charm!

We treat these fuel tanks as rather permanent ( have you ever carried filled 12 gallon fuel tanks? ) and refuel in place.
This works at the refueling dock and also when the boat is on the trailer.

We don’t use any spray less quick disconnects on our system except at the engine.
All fittings are direct connect to the fuel lines which are 3/8 ID.
We have a primer bulb sized for 3/8 ID tubing which gives a better prime per pump than the 1/4 ID variety and are less prone to fouling.

Routing is from each tank to a 3 way selector valve ( Tank A or Tank B or Tank C) then to the fuel filter separator then to the primer bulb and then to the engine. These are all mounted on a PVC Board located on the aft face on the starboard side wall behind the swing seat. The selector valve and prime bulb are just below the top surface within easy reach when seated or when standing. The fuel filter/ separator is viewable when seated by looking over the back of the seat.

The Tank C port is a “TBD” at this time to allow for an additional 3rd auxiliary tank to be added for longer motoring passages when needed in the future traveling plans.

This PVC Board was fabricated and assembled at home and then brought to the boat to be mounted with 4 each 1/4-20 SST screws with washers and lock washers to the 4 Well Nuts. Alignment of the holes into the aft face wall of the boat was a snap by being able to use the predrilled 1/4 diameter holes in the PVC Board. These were then the pilot holes to drill the Well Nut holes in the boat.

The Final holes were drilled tight fit to the Well Nuts which were inserted with a small bit of 5200 Adhesive in the holes and the back flange of the Well Nuts. (NO LOCKTITE)

Once in place the fuel lines were attached and clamped.

Fuel flow to the engine was very improved and the convince of just reaching over and turning the selector valve to the desired tank is a breeze compared to fussing about down below one’s knees struggling with disconnecting/re-connecting fuel tanks. Far safer too as the helmsman’s attention is not divided away from navigation. The prime bulb is readily at hand and always vertically orientated as it should be to work properly.

We will be at the boat this weekend and we will take a couple pictures of the installation.

Note:
We left the fuel line deliberately long as we are planning on adding some additional modifications to our aft deck/motor well area in the future. The extra lengths will allow some latitude to position things.

Regards,
Over Easy

[ris]

We have a 2015 Honda 60 with over 1200 running hours. It has a built in water separator/sediment filter and a high pressure fuel filter. We change them every 300 to 400 running hours. Never had a fuel problem. I thought most newer motors had filters like this. Maybe it’s just a Honda thing.

[JeffJuneau]

Thanks so much Over Easy. The schematic is great, and I'm looking forward to seeing the images. I have to imagine that others here will be interested in how your fuel system is set up. There was not a single Well Nut in Juneau and I have them on order. Ris, regarding your point, our respective climates (Alaska vs yours in Florida) may explain how you can get by without an external filter/separator. No outboard engine dealer here in Juneau would consider installing a new motor of almost any size (except for the tiny 2.3 hp I just bought from our Honda dealer yesterday) without an external fuel/water separator and a lecture about fuel stabilizers. Our dramatic swings in temperature mixed with so much humidity puts out a lot of condensation in any enclosed area like a fuel tank. Many outboard engines including Honda's have been damaged from that problem in my part of the country. Jeff

[OverEasy]

Hi Ris & JeffJuneau

We are currently puttering about with a 2001 Tohatsu 50 HP.

It incorporates an engine mounted fuel filter that is the size of a double shot glass that requires the removal of the cowling, an awkward access and a wrench to service. Anyone trying to do this while on the water, heavens forbid with wind and waves, would really have their hands full.

If I’m not mistaken it isn’t much better on more current manufacture engines including Honda.

A readily accessible visually inspecting tool-less ability to drain separated water from a filter that precludes water and debris from getting to that tiny engine mounted filter is an appropriate pre-emptive for what travel and use plans we are contemplating.

Effort well spent as far as we are concerned.

Humidity, temperature swings and the aspect of not always being able to obtain ethanol-free fuel are valid issues. Many new boat and engine installations now incorporate external fuel filter/separators from the get go as JeffJuneau pointed out.

It’s also a matter of choice that we have decided to embrace on a pre-emptive basis.

Best Regards,
Over Easy

[Highlander]

Hi guy,s hope this helps











U can go with a smaller opening deck plate , the reason mine is larger is because I installed wash down pump in there as well & a bilge blower on the other side
J

[Be Free]

...
If I’m not mistaken it isn’t much better on more current manufacture engines including Honda.
...

BF40D fuel separator is under the cowl but it can be removed and opened without tools. Not too hard to get to if the boat is holding relatively still.

[OverEasy]

Hi JeffJuneau

I haven’t forgotten the install pictures, just haven’t been to the boat for over the past week.
Between the nearly matching heat and humidity at 100 apiece and the near daily thunderstorms ⛈ we’ve been a bit home bound….like we needed more time locked inside

Weather is predicted to be somewhat better this coming weekend……

Hi BeFree

Thanks for the clarification on the Honda engine filter access.
I’m glad that you don’t need a tool to get it off. That’s one aspect less than what Tohatsu gave us!

Ours is also under the cowl but on the aft side and it needs a tool to remove. It also requires that the engine be fully down or the filter contents will spill out. As you might expect inspection is virtually impossible on the water and removal is not only a contortionist juggler contest it is darn near impossible with any wave action. (Tohatsu isn’t alone with this design feature)

Given that engine fuel filter is so small and that it is most likely to get clogged when being tossed about by wind and wave crossing a bar in the dark of night while outrunning a storm ⛈ (which would follow Murphy’s Law ) we opted for a pre-emptive alternative.

Hence why we went with the easy inspection and access external profiler on the aft wall.
Easy to see, drain and when necessary change.
The prefilter is not only physically larger in flow capacity it is also finer in filtration.
As such I doubt that the engine filter will ever foul in the future.

It was worth it to us given my lack of ballet skills and a non-desire to go head first in to the sea (although I’d probably take advantage of the situation to cool off given the heat and humidity we are experiencing the past week or so [hoping not to be bait] )

All kidding aside, we figured that with all things considered, it was just easier to have the pre-filter for everyday use.

Fair winds and following seas
Over Easy

[Be Free]

Permanent "plumbing" to each tank with a common filter/separator have been on my to-do list for a while now.

[OverEasy]

Hi JeffJuneau

Here are some photos of my assembled and mounted fuel tank selector, hand primer bulb, filter/separator, and a FDV pressure regulator (to limit excess pressure due to solar heating and the new regulation fuel tanks that are pressure sealed for vapor control).

I forgot to put the FDV (grey/black round thingy) on the schematic, sorry.
It goes in between the selector valve outlet and the fuel filter inlet.













Making this on a PVC board allowed me to do all the fitting and adjustments on my workbench then mount it simply with 4 of those 1/4-20 threaded Wellnuts and SST boots with SST washers.

It works like a charm for us. We can easily reach the selector valve which is located just below the top surface on the starboard side aft face. We arranged it so that the selector handle points to the side that the in-use tank is on. The 3rd tank option position is for a future auxiliary tank.

Same goes for the primer bulb. No more fumbling around pulling on fuel lines and figuring out which side is “up”.

The fuel filter is easy to see, to change and to drain. No more fumbling under the cowling with a wrench to drain water from the engine mounted filter over open water hanging off toe back end with wind and wave.

Hope this helps.

[JeffJuneau]

Thanks OverEasy and Be Free, The photos and discussion were very helpful, and my wellnuts arrived on Saturday, so I should be able to mount my filter/separator soon. I liked OverEasy's setup and tank switch system. I might have to upgrade mine to something like that in the future. We are enduring a cold and wet summer here. Jeff

[OverEasy]

Hi JeffJuneau

No complaining but the past several weeks have all been in the high 80s to high 90s with several days bumping over 100 F. Wanna trade some hot for some cold?

We already have the wet from Claudette.