Steering for 26X with etec 90hp and 5.5" Jack Plate

[C Buchs]

We have two 's. One is a 2000 and the other is a 2001 and we're installing 2014 and 2015 etec 90hp outboards. The outboards are set back 5.5 inches by these two-piece manual setback/jack plates https://thmarinesupplies.com/collection ... 8932197419.



Here's how we mocked the steering up yesterday. That is not the rod we plan to use. We mocked it up with a piece of galvanized rod, a coupling nut, and our original steering rod. We're just trying to get the geometry right before we build the final assembly.



Because the engine is set back 5.5 inches, we moved the clamp with the ball out to the end so that it's as far to the stern as possible. This moved that connection point back about 3.5 inches from the original position.

We also have the connection on the engine as far back as possible. This seems to give the engine the best swing and it closely matches the rudder swing. Mounting the ball & socket on the bottom of the outboard arm is preferable because it gets things as low as possible (less tripping hazard). Also, there isn't room between the cowling and the arm for the ball & socket on the top in that hole.

The problem we are having is when the engine is tilted, there is interference between the ball & socket and the engine. Although we plan to disconnect the motor when sailing, we want the ability to leave it connected and still steer. I've ordered one of these rod ends https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071D ... UTF8&psc=1 to replace the ball & socket. I'm hoping that we have the same range of motion in a smaller package. We won't have the quick disconnect, but it's not really needed on the motor end of the connection rod.

This is a work in progress and I'll update everyone on how this turns out. Also, please provide any suggestions you might have.

Jeff

[beechkingd]

You might need to go to a dual cable system or possibly some type of idler bell crank.

[Seapup]

It looks like you are getting it figured out. I had a similiar binding issue at first. I had a different type of motor connecting bar (OEM I think) and fully threaded the end on, but did not lock it down with a locknut it so it could turn on the threads as the motor tilted. My bar was not angled like yours though. I had to raise where the motor bar connected to the rudder bar to make the motor bar level vs angled up for the higher motor.

I had a 5" setback jackplate with my 90. I ended up raising the motor up on it quite a bit, maybe 3" above no jackplate to get it to run at the right depth. The water rises behind the stern and the further back motor is angled deeper in the water as the bow rises. With the bow angling up when moving my motor was much too deep at first.

[Seapup]

hat's a big motor, and a long thin linkage that you've put a bend in. I'd move it further out from the motor to give you better leverage

If you move it to the outer pivot the motor will only turn about halfway. The angled back steering with the further setback of the jackplate makes the motor swing less than the original geometry.

I noticed on the other thread you also mentioned your concern over the strength of the connecting bar. Those are both reasons after a season I moved the steering cable from connecting to the crossbar to directly to the motor. Gives full steering for the motor at full strength, no linkage slop, no play. Mounted just like every other powerboat. Alos helped my autopilot track straight without hunting around. The rudders weigh a few pounds vs a few hundred of the motor, so much less stress on the linkage and lesss steering slop, no motor flop. Also full lock on the motor steering is good for docking, full lock on the rudders just stalls them, so if you have to loose a little swing on one or the other the rudder was my choice. With that setup I later went to a 10" jackplate without issues.

[Sheppie62]

I will be using hydraulic steering connected to the motor first. I’ve been thinking about flipping the tie rod backwards with a rod attached as far right as possible. I don’t know if the motor tilted (with setback and lift) will hit it.

[C Buchs]

I noticed on the other thread you also mentioned your concern over the strength of the connecting bar. Those are both reasons after a season I moved the steering cable from connecting to the crossbar to directly to the motor. Gives full steering for the motor at full strength, no linkage slop, no play. Mounted just like every other powerboat. Alos helped my autopilot track straight without hunting around. The rudders weigh a few pounds vs a few hundred of the motor, so much less stress on the linkage and lesss steering slop, no motor flop. Also full lock on the motor steering is good for docking, full lock on the rudders just stalls them, so if you have to loose a little swing on one or the other the rudder was my choice. With that setup I later went to a 10" jackplate without issues.

I'm still concerned about the strength of the quick disconnect fitting. I ordered a pair of the Panther 55-5200 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TT ... UTF8&psc=1) to see if they are any different than what BWY sells (http://shop.bwyachts.com/product-p/5714-1v0.htm). The Panther ones are rated by the manufacturer for 25hp. Both of our boats had the quick disconnect steering with our 50hp engines for 20 years and never showed any signs of wear.

Our steering systems never had the standoff. I've always wanted to feel what it's like to sail with just the rudders connected to the wheel. To really learn to balance the boat. This is one reason for staying with a wheel-rudders-engine system instead of a wheel-engine-rudders system. The other reason is we really are changing a lot and smaller changes are easier to manage.

I'm confident that the rod end I've ordered will be strong enough. I'll be putting my hands on the quick disconnect every time I change to sailing mode. So I'm confident that I can monitor it for any signs of failure.

Jeff

[C Buchs]

... I had a different type of motor connecting bar (OEM I think) and fully threaded the end on, but did not lock it down with a locknut it so it could turn on the threads as the motor tilted.

I have thought about not using a lock not and allowing the connectors to rotate in the threads a little. I'd rather not, but it's an option.

Jeff

[C Buchs]

I will be using hydraulic steering connected to the motor first. I’ve been thinking about flipping the tie rod backwards with a rod attached as far right as possible. I don’t know if the motor tilted (with setback and lift) will hit it.

The geometry is super complicated. Especially with the complication of tilting the motor. I don't think you could get it right unless you created a thorough CAD drawing. I tried working it out for my setup, but until the motor was on and hooked up to a battery so that I could tilt it, we were just guessing. I bought a piece of stainless 48" long 3/8" diameter rod to make our tie rods from. It was $34 and the last one the well-stocked hardware store had. We've been mocking it up using a cheap piece of galvanized all-thread I had on hand and some coupling nuts. This is working well for us, but all these rod ends and quick connects are fine thread and the all-thread is course thread. So keep that in mind! Don't do what I did and "clean" the threads of your quick connects with a course thread tap!

Jeff