Centerboard Stuck
Centerboard Stuck
Launched,new to me 98X. Motored out to my mooring, but centerboard would not drop. I went in water to try and pull down,but I could not get a good grip. Going out tomorrow to try again. Any ideas????
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mike
- Captain
- Posts: 812
- Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2003 8:06 pm
- Location: MS Gulf Coast "Wind Dancer" 98 26X
That's odd... the centerboard fits pretty loosley in the trunk. There was a report here about a year ago (Dimitri, I think) of the centerboard getting jammed in the trunk as a result of having beached the boat (broadside, IIRC)... sand/pebbles were wedged between the board and the wall of the trunk.
One of the suggestions made at the time was to try and insert a long metal rod or wooden dowel into the hole where the centerboard line goes down on the deck, and use it to give the top of the board a few gentle taps to hopefully encourage it to drop.
Has the boat lived in the water prior to you buying it, or did it stay on the trailer? I ask because perhaps, if it was stored in the water, the board and/or trunk were not painted with anti-fouling paint, resulting in some growth inhibiting movement of the board.
--Mike
One of the suggestions made at the time was to try and insert a long metal rod or wooden dowel into the hole where the centerboard line goes down on the deck, and use it to give the top of the board a few gentle taps to hopefully encourage it to drop.
Has the boat lived in the water prior to you buying it, or did it stay on the trailer? I ask because perhaps, if it was stored in the water, the board and/or trunk were not painted with anti-fouling paint, resulting in some growth inhibiting movement of the board.
--Mike
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mike
- Captain
- Posts: 812
- Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2003 8:06 pm
- Location: MS Gulf Coast "Wind Dancer" 98 26X
Actually, you can drop the board with the boat on the trailer. It's been a while, but if I remember correctly, the procedure is to drop the front of the board first (after removing the nut that holds the hanger bolt), then slide it forward until the aft end clears the trailer bunk and drops as well.G.F wrote:boat was moored, but has not been in water for 2 seasons, I did paint bottom and tried to get all barnacles around centerboard out. I did not drop board because it was on trailer or even try to move it.
If I'm understanding you correctly, it sounds like you didn't paint the centerboard and trunk... that may be a problem after a while.
--Mike
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Bobby T.-26X #4767
- Captain
- Posts: 906
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 10:48 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Oceanside Harbor, CA
my money's on some left over growth in the cavity, or extra bottom paint in the crevasse which has created enough of a bind to keep the centerboard from dropping.
you may be able to get it to drop while in the water. that is, diving under or using a piece of dowling as described above.
the description/schematic of the centerboard is on page 18 of the 26X manual.
to drop it while on the trailer, you must release the bracket.
the nut & washer holding the bracket can be found inside the boat, accessed under the front dinette seat.
loosen the bolt just above the threads.
now, using a small block of wood to protect the top of the bolt, get a small sledge or the like and pound, pound, pound until you break the 5200 adhesive seal.
it's a very small space to work in so be patient.
once the seal is broken, untighten the nut that holds it into place and it will drop at the point of the bracket.
make sure that there is something soft (pillows/blankets) below it when it drops so as to not damage it.
when you put it back into place after repair, make sure that the rope and knot is in it's correct location so as not to cause binding.
the nut and washer are actually located above the waterline of the boat and any 5200 or silicone you use will actually serve only as a splash guard.
good luck.
you may be able to get it to drop while in the water. that is, diving under or using a piece of dowling as described above.
the description/schematic of the centerboard is on page 18 of the 26X manual.
to drop it while on the trailer, you must release the bracket.
the nut & washer holding the bracket can be found inside the boat, accessed under the front dinette seat.
loosen the bolt just above the threads.
now, using a small block of wood to protect the top of the bolt, get a small sledge or the like and pound, pound, pound until you break the 5200 adhesive seal.
it's a very small space to work in so be patient.
once the seal is broken, untighten the nut that holds it into place and it will drop at the point of the bracket.
make sure that there is something soft (pillows/blankets) below it when it drops so as to not damage it.
when you put it back into place after repair, make sure that the rope and knot is in it's correct location so as not to cause binding.
the nut and washer are actually located above the waterline of the boat and any 5200 or silicone you use will actually serve only as a splash guard.
good luck.
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craiglaforce
- Captain
- Posts: 831
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 8:30 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Houston, Tx
WHen I pull my board and paint it, it tends to stick on the first time out. It always pops loose if I just motor around in some chop for about 10 minutes.
You might also check as was said previously that you don't have some gravel wedged up in the slot jamming the board sideways.
I have used a steel pancake flipper to scrape barnacles in that area. works great.
The board is easy to drop on the trailer. I use a hammer a big piece of cardboard to lay on and of course a new tube of 5200 or 4200 to gook it up again when you replace it. Just undo the hanger bolt and loosed the centerboard line, back the nut off flush with the end of the bolt and give it a few wacks with the hammer. should pop right loose. a little scraping here and there, maybe a fresh coat of antifouling and it is ready to replace.
This is a good time to inspect for pivot hole condition and also the condition of the board. Mine keeps trying to split apart along the edge.
There are other methods and advice on this topic if you search on centerboard removal or something similar.
Good luck and don't drop the board on your nose. .
Also, on my '97, the cheek block pulley degraded and the cable started hanging up by wedging alongside the polymer pulley sheave. Worth a quick check I guess before droppng the board.
You might also check as was said previously that you don't have some gravel wedged up in the slot jamming the board sideways.
I have used a steel pancake flipper to scrape barnacles in that area. works great.
The board is easy to drop on the trailer. I use a hammer a big piece of cardboard to lay on and of course a new tube of 5200 or 4200 to gook it up again when you replace it. Just undo the hanger bolt and loosed the centerboard line, back the nut off flush with the end of the bolt and give it a few wacks with the hammer. should pop right loose. a little scraping here and there, maybe a fresh coat of antifouling and it is ready to replace.
This is a good time to inspect for pivot hole condition and also the condition of the board. Mine keeps trying to split apart along the edge.
There are other methods and advice on this topic if you search on centerboard removal or something similar.
Good luck and don't drop the board on your nose. .
Also, on my '97, the cheek block pulley degraded and the cable started hanging up by wedging alongside the polymer pulley sheave. Worth a quick check I guess before droppng the board.
