Inspection and Repair List - 26x

[Burdo]

Hi All,

First off, what a great community. When I started looking at boats, this was an excellent resource to help me narrow my choice down to a MacGregor. Thanks for all the time and effort that so many have put into the site so far.

I recently purchased a 2000 26x. Like many, I was drawn to the flexibility of the Macs to motor/sail and to its mobility to access different bodies of water.

The boat I purchased has sat for some time so needs a good inspection and assessment. I have been reading some of the old posts here on the forum so am starting the process of getting up to speed, but have a long way to go still.

Any suggestions of things to start looking at in order of importance? I'll try to keep a list, and will reach out with questions as they come up.

[Dougiestyle]

Hi welcome to the group lots of good stuff here.

Hmm Checklist? Got any photos? Have you had it out yet? has it been in salt or fresh water?

Good place to start is the trailer. Make sure its good.
The trailer can have corrosion problems on the tongue and axle. search trailer problems on this forum.






Has it had water inside The motor well drain hoses have been known to come off and fill up the inside.
The anchor locker can have drain hose issues also. Chain plates sealed? alot of water comes in through these.

Just a few to get you started.

[Burdo]

Hi Dougie,

Thanks for the comments. Quick answers:

1. Photos - I took a couple today. Will try to post below.

2. On Water Yet? - Nope, I had a look at it briefly once before and had time today to go over for the first time and it is missing a few things like a key, a battery, and a gas tank. And an anchor.

3. Trailer - I had an initial look at the trailer. All in all looks ok structurally. It was an inland lake boat so doesn't appear to have much of the salt water corrosion issues discussed here on the site. I'll have a more thorough inspection of the tongue.

The lights work but the wiring looks to be old and hangs in a few spots. In addition, looks like the old trailer jack packed it in and the OP attached a new one. The jack doesn't have the ability to rotate up though and is a bit short so perhaps a taller, more permanent one will have to be added.

4. Water - when I looked at it initially, it had a fair bit of water from a severe thunderstorm as the top hatch had blown or been left open. I emptied most of it out. It has been rainy lately, now only a bit of water can be seen when looking under the four cover panels in the rear berth. So there is still some water coming in.

5. Motor Well - The motor well was full of water from the recent rain, I tried a quick clean out and cleared some mud and leaves and while it is still partially plugged, it seems to drain slowly now. Can I access the motor well drain hose from the inside and replace?

6 . Anchor locker drain - I could see a stain from the seepage but will have to check.

7. Chain plates - didn't look like they have been sealed.

In regards to other leaks, there were a few drip stains on the starboard and ports walls so looks like a full reseal of the top is in order. Some small stains from water ingress at the windows from the highway wind. Also some water staining underneath the helm.

On my to do list at the moment is to get a key, a battery and a fuel tank. The 25hp Yamaha was jump started previously to quickly test so it runs but it ran a bit rough so I will probably take it into a local shop to get them give it a once over.

Based on some initial reading, I'm leaning toward basics to get up and running and getting a 6 gallon fuel tank for now and can pair for possible future expansion based on needs.

I started to read some posts on battery selection and set up and realized it was like asking what type of motor oil is best on a motorcycling forum so will go with a basic marine battery that can be paired etc. as needs expand.

As for a key, not sure if it's easier to get one cut or just buy an ignition assembly. Any thoughts or inputs greatly appreciated.

[Herschel]

Greetings. And welcome. I think you can find some excellent threads on this site on checklists for examining boats. I have had my 1998 26X for about 17 years. Of course, a lot depends on the boats history (how well has it been maintained) and location (salt or fresh, trailered or slipped). I will simply list some of the issues I have faced over the years to give you some idea of what you might want to check into. I replaced the original outboard in 2013. The old one had just under 500 hours, but was not reliable. I had the bottom painted early on so I could keep it in a slip fulltime. I replaced the mainsail in 2017, but I had a Sunbrella edge added to my working jib early on so I could roller reef it and leave it on full time. I only use the 110 jib. I have used first NewglassII and now Fleetwax to slowdown deterioration of the Gelcoat. That needs to be done at least every year, if not more often depending on location. I am in Florida, and the UV is strong here. I recently replaced my chart plotter going from an old dull Horizon to a color Garmin. I replaced my forestay in 2012 and the two longer shrouds in 2017 just to play it safe. My boat has been in fresh water exclusively so the old stays were still in pretty good shape, but you can't really tell until you cut one and examine it inside. This past spring I put $1,200 into rehabbing my OEM steel trailer with POR15 anti-rust treatment and paint, plus all new gear. That included having a welder fabricate the new three main transverse support beams to replace the rusted ones. . Of course, batteries last about four years or so. I have had most luck with Optima deep cycles, and I replace them in pairs. My trailer tires seem to last about five years. I keep them covered full time and stored on concrete or wood slabs to cut down on dry rot and UV damage. There have been other routine repairs and maintenance items that I consider typical for boat ownership. These are the major ones. So, do you think someone has been doing some of these over the years for the boat you just bought, or might some of these be waiting for you down the road?

[Tomfoolery]

Hi Dougie,

Thanks for the comments. Quick answers:

1. Photos - I took a couple today. Will try to post below.

2. On Water Yet? - Nope, I had a look at it briefly once before and had time today to go over for the first time and it is missing a few things like a key, a battery, and a gas tank. And an anchor. Be advised that an anchor that fits the anchor locker (Danforth fluke-type anchor) is too small to be trusted for other than a lunch hook, although a Fortress aluminium anchor, like the little 4 pounder that I have, set to the correct fluke angle for the bottom (sand or mud), can dig itself in to where it's hard to get back out again.

3. Trailer - I had an initial look at the trailer. All in all looks ok structurally. It was an inland lake boat so doesn't appear to have much of the salt water corrosion issues discussed here on the site. I'll have a more thorough inspection of the tongue. Bang around the bottom of that pole tongue tube with a ball peen hammer, listening and feeling for a sharp rebound and ringing steel sound. A dull thud and/or poor rebound indicates bad corrosion. Look especially hard where it meets the channels, like in the photo above with the failed tongue - that's where the greatest bending moment is, and where they normally fail.

The lights work but the wiring looks to be old and hangs in a few spots. In addition, looks like the old trailer jack packed it in and the OP attached a new one. The jack doesn't have the ability to rotate up though and is a bit short so perhaps a taller, more permanent one will have to be added.

4. Water - when I looked at it initially, it had a fair bit of water from a severe thunderstorm as the top hatch had blown or been left open. I emptied most of it out. It has been rainy lately, now only a bit of water can be seen when looking under the four cover panels in the rear berth. So there is still some water coming in. If you're not sailing, you're chasing leaks, at least in the beginning. Many leaks originate at deck penetrations, like winches, rope clutches, the slides for the hatch, lifeline stanchions, etc. Next-level investigation and mitigation would involve pulling off the rub rail and grinding out and resealing the joint, then putting on a new rub rail. But I'd start with rebedding all the other stuff first, using butyl tape for most.

5. Motor Well - The motor well was full of water from the recent rain, I tried a quick clean out and cleared some mud and leaves and while it is still partially plugged, it seems to drain slowly now. Can I access the motor well drain hose from the inside and replace? Yes, you can. But I'd first inspect it from the inside, and if solid, blow that drain out with a water jet. That line is too small, mainly because debris clogs it too easily, not because of water flow, but unless you want to do surgery on it, blowing it out with water when it gets clogged will clear it fine. It works well when it works.

6 . Anchor locker drain - I could see a stain from the seepage but will have to check. Might be from the forestay chainplate leaking.

7. Chain plates - didn't look like they have been sealed. Drill out the rivets and remove the oval covers. Clean and rebed with butyl tape. That stuff stays flexible forever, and will stop those leaks. Replace the cover and pop rivet it back on.

In regards to other leaks, there were a few drip stains on the starboard and ports walls so looks like a full reseal of the top is in order. Some small stains from water ingress at the windows from the highway wind. Also some water staining underneath the helm.

On my to do list at the moment is to get a key, a battery and a fuel tank. The 25hp Yamaha was jump started previously to quickly test so it runs but it ran a bit rough so I will probably take it into a local shop to get them give it a once over. Try running Seafoam through it. Amazing stuff. I got my late father's snowblower running after sitting for 10 years in the garage, and the carb cleared up after a tank of Seafoam. Just one data point, but the stuff really does work, and it's less work than replacing carbs (don't know how feasible rebuilding carbs is any more).

Based on some initial reading, I'm leaning toward basics to get up and running and getting a 6 gallon fuel tank for now and can pair for possible future expansion based on needs. If you're sailing mainly, a 6 gallon tank is plenty. I motor a lot and have a pair of them, and a 50 hp. Just pay attention to fuel level, and know that when it gets to the 'reserve' part of the tank, you'd better get thee to a petrol merchant toot sweet.

I started to read some posts on battery selection and set up and realized it was like asking what type of motor oil is best on a motorcycling forum so will go with a basic marine battery that can be paired etc. as needs expand. If you're using it as a day sailor, then just about any battery will work. Marine 'deep cycle' types are not true deep cycle batteries, like golf cart and forklift batteries, but they're fine for what I use the boat for. I do have two of them on a 1/2/both/off battery switch, with staggered born-on dates, and replace them one at a time as needed. But to be honest, I could be just fine with a single battery and one of those little booster packs full of lithium batteries. In your case, learn how to start your outboard with a rope, as it's small enough to easily do that.

As for a key, not sure if it's easier to get one cut or just buy an ignition assembly. Any thoughts or inputs greatly appreciated.

[Be Free]

When I lost the key for my Honda BF40A I found out that all Hondas used the same key. I think they eventually went to about a dozen different keys for the newer versions. I would not be surprised if Yamaha did the same. It is very likely that you can order a replacement key online with a little research.

Even if you have to have a new key cut it will probably be much less than replacing an ignition switch, and considerably easier.

I'm not aware of any connection between the forestay and the anchor locker. I'm pretty sure that all of the hardware is in front of the anchor locker well. Staining from the anchor locker drain hole is probably coming from something in the anchor locker. Check for rusting chain or shackles on your anchor.

You can easily see both connectors and the drain hose for the engine well if you slide all the way back in the aft berth and remove the panel covering the back of the berth (if it is still there). Look for any signs of leaks but don't mess with it unless you see it has been leaking. To clear a blockage, just shoot water from a garden hose from outside drain. It should clear easily. Don't run anything solid down the drain. You will probably puncture the drain hose.

[Burdo]

Hi Herschel,

Thanks for the comments and the examples of things that you have had to so far.

1. Outboard - I can see the benefits of a newer, larger outboard but will use my current motor for a bit to see if I need to repower at some point.
2. Gelcoat - good to know that it should be done every year. A product recommendation is very useful as well.
3. Chart Plotter - It's on the list of things to get.
4. Forestay & shrouds - haven't checked in detail but will take some pictures and post. I did a once over and they look ok at first glance but a detailed inspection is required.
5. Tires - I plan to drive a fair bit so will check the current age and keep them newer.

I don't know much of the usage and maintenance history of the boat so am planning on inspecting things, using the boat a bit and replacing items as needed.

[Burdo]

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the comments.

1. Anchor - thanks for the suggestion, I'll look at the Fortress as well as something bigger that I assume has to be mounted.
2. Trailer - I will hammer for signs of weakness.
3. Leaks - thanks for the product suggestion. I had never heard of butyl tape so good to get a list of marine specific products started as well.
4. Chain plates - I can't remember the last time I saw my pop diverter, will have to look for it I guess or add it my tool list.
5. Seafoam - good suggestion. Good opportunity to play around with the motor as it's always good to learn more about your own machines and gear.
6. Motor - I'll practice a pull start as a backup.

[Burdo]

Hi Be Free,

Thanks for the comments.

1. Keys - I'll do that. I'll take it apart to see if there are identification numbers and see whether copies are easy to be made.
2. Anchor locker - will look and clean out the drain hole.
3. Engine well - good to know there is a panel that can be easily removed to view the drain hose. I'll flush and inspect to make sure it is clear and not damaged.

[Dougiestyle]

Inspect and grease the wheel bearings

[Tomfoolery]

4. Forestay & shrouds - haven't checked in detail but will take some pictures and post. I did a once over and they look ok at first glance but a detailed inspection is required.

Check carefully at the mast hound especially. The forestay bends a lot where it comes out of the furler, and that's where you're most likely to find broken wires. I don't think I've ever seen a post here where the forestay started failing anywhere other than there, and that little bit of rope has a rough life up there.

BWY makes a larger 5/32" forestay (same size as the side stays) that's a direct replacement, which I and many others have. It doesn't need to be stronger than the 1900 lb breaking strength of the 1/8" rope when it's in good condition; it helps that there's more reserve for when it's damaged. Which it will be, sooner or later, from the way it lays with the furler with the mast down, unless you detach it every time you un-step the mast of course.

[Herschel]

Forestay & shrouds - haven't checked in detail but will take some pictures and post. I did a once over and they look ok at first glance but a detailed inspection is required.

Roger that. I can only reiterate that my reading and study regarding shrouds is that they deteriorate from the inside out. When I ordered a new forestay, I asked the rigger at West Marine to cut the original/OEM one, evaluate it, and report his findings. His report was that it was in good shape. Given it had been on the boat for 15 years and used exclusively in fresh water, I found it educational/reassuring. I had heard advice from salt water sailors that replacing shrouds every 7-10 years was advisable depending on the use of the boat and whether it was mostly trailered or kept in a slip full time. My personal experience with a dismasting on my Hobie 18 in the Gulf of Mexico (SW Florida coast) due to shroud failure was a formative experience. I really didn't have a sense about fresh water boats. Like I said, I went ahead and replaced the longer shrouds a few years ago just for peace of mind. I did not not send my old shrouds to BWY to examine, nor did I cut them myself. It just seemed a shame to do that when they might have some unknown use at some time in the future. Yes, I guess I am a bit of a hoarder when it comes to boat parts and gear. The lower shrouds and back stay are on my wish list for Santa this winter. They are 22 years old and have served me well, especially since I keep my boat at a slip full time. My Navy training/nautical paranoia (often hard to know the difference) is kicking in. I'll cut one this time and inspect it (and report back).

[Burdo]

Thanks Tom, Doug and Herchel.

1. Keys - As an update, I looked into replacement keys and depending on the manufacturer, some many have a handful of different types to and others may have quite a few. On one of the Yamaha sites, someone suggested 125 and I counted about 75 listed and available on another site.

The fun part is removing the ignition control to find the faintest number stamp I have ever seen. It was almost invisible unless held up to the light and located on the key barrel.

2. Wheel bearings - to be inspected and greased or replaced if they look beyond their useful life.

3. Shrouds and stays - all good advice. I'll post some pictures when I get around to looking at them in detail.

Questions:

1. I was looking at the battery holder and since I don't have anything to compare it to, didn't think it was too unusual to have it mounted in the storage space under the starboard seat leaving enough room for one 6 gallon fuel tank. Apparently the boat didn't come from the manufacturer this way so it must have been customized this way. Does everyone else pretty much have two batteries and mounted underdeck in the standard spot?

2. Surge brakes on trailer - any tips on testing them? How have they held up for users over the years?

[Tomfoolery]

Questions:

1. I was looking at the battery holder and since I don't have anything to compare it to, didn't think it was too unusual to have it mounted in the storage space under the starboard seat leaving enough room for one 6 gallon fuel tank. Apparently the boat didn't come from the manufacturer this way so it must have been customized this way. Does everyone else pretty much have two batteries and mounted underdeck in the standard spot?

2. Surge brakes on trailer - any tips on testing them? How have they held up for users over the years?

1) I have two batteries under that useless little seat on the port side, abaft the galley. There is a off/1/both/2 battery switch on the inboard face, and I put a 2-channel trickle charger on the aft face, with one set of leads wired to each battery so they both charge on shore power no matter what. Only down side is that I can't see the charge status lights on it without peaking over it a little, but no bid deal.

2) Mine were frozen and burned up while bring it home from the marina where I found it. So I ripped them off both axles, and cut the coupler welds and removed it, and installed disc brakes on just the rear axle (two axle trailer) with a new coupler, bolted not welded. The front axle still has the drums, but no backing plate and guts. Makes the annual inspector raise an eyebrow, but it's perfectly legal, and I just don't feel inclined to replace perfectly good hubs and studs that happen to have a drum around them.

I have a reverse lockout solenoid valve on it so I don't have to get out and pin it to back up. Brakes work well, and when I've pinned the coupler* I can tell the brakes aren't working; it's very noticeable.

In NY State at least, only one axle has to have brakes; some states (MD, for instance) require brakes on all axles. But disc is the way to go. If in salt water, SS disc brakes would be better than budget carbon steel setups.

*I pin it when backing it into my in-laws' driveway, which is a fairly steep hill. The approach is downhill, so when I stop, the coupler is compressed. Putting it into reverse simply locks the valve with the brakes energized, which isn't good. So I lock them with a pin in the church lot next door, then do my thing. There are better lock-out valve types that actually vent the brake line to tank when energized, so the coupler compresses but the fluid just loops back to the reservoir, but I didn't go that far, which is too bad as that's the cat's meow for disc surge brakes. And lock-out solenoids aren't needed for "free-backing" drum brakes, which have very little effect in reverse (not all drum brakes are "free-backing"), but I didn't want drums at all.