High Sides

[zamber]

The sides on the MacGregor 26 are very high. Is it hard to dock because of that? Is it hard to tie the cleats on the dock from the boat? Is it hard to walk along the side of the boat?

[Starscream]

In my experience, it can be difficult to manage a side-wind with the high top sides. But rudders down, centerboard down, a big 4-blade prop, and experience certainly help make it totally manageable.

The high topsides can also make boarding and disembarking from a floating dock difficult for those with reduced mobility. Some owners carry simple plastic steps to out on the dock.

It's a fact of the boat. That's how you get almost 6' of standing headroom in a trailerable boat.

[BOAT]

Something I sorely miss is walking along the edge along the side of the cabin - most boats have a ledge along the side so there is room for your foot along the side of the cabin - the MAC does not have that - it's not possible to walk there.

[Tomfoolery]

As Starscream said (paraphrasing), it's doable, but takes a little getting used to.

I put the CB down just a little and normally have just one rudder down. That's enough for good control even with a cross wind.

One thing you do have to get used to is the transition point between directional engine thrust and rudder control when docking. When going faster, like walking speed, the rudders will do the steering with the engine idling. Going forward, the engine thrust works with the rudders when making a hard turn. But when in reverse, the engine fights you, as it's pulling in the opposite direction as the rudders (still moving forward, though).

Imagine pulling up to the dock on your port side, approaching at 45 degrees to the dock (for example). With a little throttle in reverse to slow you down, you cut the wheel to starboard to straighten out. The rudders pull the stern toward the dock, as you want them to, since you're still moving forward. But as it slows, that prop, pulling backwards, will eventually overpower the rudders and start pulling the stern away from the dock. That's the transition point.

So you cut the wheel the other way and juice the throttle a little, and it pulls the stern right into the dock. That's my standard technique for sidling up to a quay. Almost (but not quite) scrape the hull on the wall, then pull the stern in using reverse. Step out and make the lines.

If it's windy, then just one line will do as a temporary measure, though I sometimes use either a loop from bow to stern, or (most common method) just step out and pull the rail every so often as I first make the stern line, then walk the bow line to another cleat. I keep the bow line terminated at the bow, ran outside all the rigging and temporarily tied to the rail at the cockpit for easy access.

Doesn't have to be pretty at first; just secure. Then there's all the time in the world to adjust, add a spring line or two if necessary, etc.

[Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL]

Get a monkey fist. Attach maybe a 1/4" line to it and throw it over the dock you want to get to. If someone is there they can pull you in. If not, maybe you'll get lucky and the monkey fist will get snagged on something and you can pull yourself in. Or, try again.

[BOAT]

somebody told me about a monkey's fist before and I tried to get the fist but the monkey fought back so I tied a line to the side stay chain plate instead of a monkey and led it back to the cockpit. Then when the wind blows bad and I can't put the boards down I just go backwards to the dock (in reverse) and the boat just seems to follow wherever the motor goes. Then I just jump off the back onto the dock holding that line that is attached to the chainplate so that line would be in the middle of the boat. (If it's in the middle is it called a breast line?? ) don't know what you call it. I call it a chainplate line

Then I just pull on the line.

I was unable to win the fight with the monkey.

[Russ]

A tip Ray from Blue Water Yachts gave me was to run a line from the bow to stern. This becomes a grab line.
Jump off the dock and grab this line someplace and pull the boat in.

Yea, the cost of 6' headroom is less deck space.

I did this for a year and it worked very well until I change slips to one easier to get into.

[kurz]

the only I miss is docking backwarts. It is (nearly?) impssible to dock backwarts an jump over the OB.

There are nice platform ideas, but is not easy to handle with the MacM-configuration.

[Tomfoolery]

I was unable to win the fight with the monkey.

Oh, I know the feeling.

[Jimmyt]

The sides on the MacGregor 26 are very high. Is it hard to dock because of that? Is it hard to tie the cleats on the dock from the boat? Is it hard to walk along the side of the boat?

Docking, or trying to drive on the trailer, can be exciting in windy conditions. We've all got at least one hilarious docking in wind story. I just wish someone had video'd mine. You learn to work with and around the windage problem after you experience it. It will be hard the first time and get exponentially better with each successive attempt - assuming you have some sense of boat handling. You will be wishing for a bow thruster on the first few attempts.

In my experience BOAT's statement, regarding using reverse to maneuver in tight and windy conditions, is the best work-around. It is what kept me from damaging my boat (and several others), on my introduction to MacWindage...

Tying off, boarding, and disembarking difficulty will depend on your agility, and as mentioned above, the style and height of the dock. I usually find that if I didn't destroy the dock coming in, tying off, and getting off the boat are non-issues. But, I'm a spry 61+...

Agree with BOAT. Side decks are not wide enough for serious walking. I tend to incorporate the cabin roof, side decks, etc. when traveling forward. I've never had trouble getting forward when I needed to though (other than staying aboard). You do have to watch your step near the windows.

[BOAT]

The monkey is still the best idea if you can catch him. You can throw them pretty far and they tend to grab onto things.

I guess the big question here is: Hey zamber - are you going to buy a MAC boat? Do you think it's time to get a boat or do you already have one?

[NiceAft]

As to backing into a slip, just stand in front of the pedestal. You are now facing the stern, and when you turn the wheel, whichever way you turn the wheel, the boat will go; no thinking backwards.

I have been doing this for many years. (A) it’s easier backing the boat into a slip. (B) by standing in front of the pedestal you don’t have to figure which way to turn. (C) exiting the boat to grab the line Russ mentioned (I use that technique also), is quite easy (if your life line has been disconnected). Motor in reverse, when you are where you wish to be, throttle forward, the boat comes to a stop and you quickly step off.

Now, with that being said, because of the high freeboard (that is what the original poster inquired about), if there is more than a small breeze, multiply the difficulty factor by three. If there is a stiff breeze or greater, as the sign says on the Belt Parkway as you enter Brooklyn, FAWGETABOUTIT.

[Wayne nicol]

I agree with boat, i actually prefer to "reverse park" the boat, its a lot easier than trying forwards, i also run a bow line( outside the shrouds ) back to the helm, and have a stern line ready with it as well, , and i can step off in a dignified manner and simply snug the boat up!

As for trailering in cross winds, if your ramp doesnt have an adjoining floating dock, i run a bow and stern line off the boat to a reliable person on the beach off to the windward side, maybe 30' away and upwind from the trailer, they can guide the boat in, and with controlled low power from the person at the helm its no drama! Its slicker than butter on a hot day!!

[Herschel]

My wife and I are hearty users of boat hooks. In our mid 70's is no time to be jumping to a dock from a moving boat. She typically takes the bow line from the forward deck and I the stern line from the cockpit. We keep our 26X at a marina so we have the same floating dock/slip to which we return for the vast majority of sails. If the wind is off setting and strong, or I am single handing the boat, I have one more aid we enjoy. We have a long line that runs from the bow cleat on the dock to the stern cleat on the dock that has a couple of small fenders in the middle of it. I can loosen that line so it floats in the water near the dock while we are out, and we can grab it easily with a bow hook when returning to the slip. Dittos on the centerboard and rudders to help. Essential IMHO.

[jimbo]

Consider a bow to stern line - already mentioned - but it need to have a fair degree of slack.
Now get a telescoping gaff and screw a small plastic clip to the gaff end. Telescoping action is required - that will soon become obvious.
The bow to stern line clips to the gaff. Now you will not drop the line
The line can be poked a LONG way away from the hull now without dropping it.
Approach the dock, reach out with the gaff (the bow to stern line attached to the gaff) and place the line over a bollard or deck cleat.
If you are nervous about approaching the dock in a forward direction then reverse in as already mentioned.

At this point you can relax and slow down the beating heart . . . the boat cannot go far . . it is secured to the dock.

If space avails, use the motor to drive forward, the boat WILL line up the to the dock as the now attached line acts as a warp and forces it to (warping action). If there not enough forward room then take up the slack in the line and again drive forward with the motor . .again using the line as a warp.

. . . most importantly . . keep calm and NO yelling at the admiral . . .