I am going to replace my keel pivot bolt. I ordered a new one from blue water yachts and it came with nice instructions the cup washers and rubber seals. However the directions say to tighten until rubber seals are squished but not deformed.
My boat is a 1984 Mac 21
Does any one know what the correct torque is so I do it with my torque wrench and feel good about applying the correct torque. Thanks in advance if someone knows.
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Keel Pivot Bolt Torque
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luis_sailing
- Just Enlisted
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Sun Jan 17, 2016 7:29 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 21
Re: Keel Pivot Bolt Torque
Tighten until the rubber compresses, if it starts to look deformed back it off a little.
There is no set value, its a compression gasket so over time, as the gasket ages, you will have to tighten it a little to keep the water out.
There is no set value, its a compression gasket so over time, as the gasket ages, you will have to tighten it a little to keep the water out.
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Tomfoolery
- Admiral
- Posts: 6135
- Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2011 7:42 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Rochester, NY '99X BF50 'Tomfoolery'
Re: Keel Pivot Bolt Torque
What he said up there ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ though I don't have that model boat. So take it (from me) for what it's worth. That's why oil filters show how much to rotate to tighten once contact is made with the synthetic rubber gasket (turn-of-nut method) - they know from the thread pitch, gasket type, size, and thickness, and of course experience, that 3/4 turn (for instance) is adequate and desirable.
But torque on any threaded fastener is a very poor indicator of residual pre-load, even under the most rigorously controlled conditions (like auto makers), and stainless bolts and nuts replacement parts are just commodity items with no particular requirement for precise specs and tolerances (rolled vs cut threads, fit class, finish, lubrication, etc.) as they would have for things like engine head bolts or studs. We use it basically because it's all we have, and the average mechanic isn't going to use a specialty hydraulic stud tensioner (for instance) when tightening the nuts on engine studs.
But torque on any threaded fastener is a very poor indicator of residual pre-load, even under the most rigorously controlled conditions (like auto makers), and stainless bolts and nuts replacement parts are just commodity items with no particular requirement for precise specs and tolerances (rolled vs cut threads, fit class, finish, lubrication, etc.) as they would have for things like engine head bolts or studs. We use it basically because it's all we have, and the average mechanic isn't going to use a specialty hydraulic stud tensioner (for instance) when tightening the nuts on engine studs.