Soft Transom

[tp56ihs]

Hi all! Wind Wager here. Was wondering if anyone has redone their transom (on the boat) . I seem to have a soft spot at the port bottom outboard bolt mount. If so, anything I should be aware? Trying to decide if I will try and injected it or cut out and replace

Thanks All
Wind Wager(Tom)

[NiceAft]

I am not familiar with the . Can you crawl into the aft bunk and look from the inside? A soft spot has me baffled.

Ray

[1st Sail]

That has me thinking about my M. Are the transoms solid glass or cored with wood. I know there is a plywood backer board under the helm stanchion. I don't recall if there is a wood backer board inside the transom as I haven't crawled back there in a while.

[Seapup]

That has me thinking about my M. Are the transoms solid glass or cored with wood. I know there is a plywood backer board under the helm stanchion. I don't recall if there is a wood backer board inside the transom as I haven't crawled back there in a while.

I thought the 2000 and newer X and also M used no wood for coring, where there is core it is foam. It was one of the marketing points of the 2000

The X transom does not have a core that I have seen when drilling motor mounts. There is a gap between the well and transom, so if you over tighten without a spacer it can crush. You can also crush the upper lip if you don't space the motor properly.

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/modt/index.php?view=940

Can you picture or describe the "soft" spot?

[bwytodd]

Both the 26X and 26M (as well as nearly every other boat made) have a wood core in the center of the transom. On some X's we have seen softness caused by the glass coming unstuck from the plywood. The answer to your first question is, it depends on if the transom reinforcement wood is wet or dry. If you unbolt the engine and fish around in the bolt hole and it is not wet, you can inject any good quality filler material into the void and everything should be OK. If it is wet or brown any gooey, then the bolt leaked and the coring is rotting, if this is the case you will need to cut out the glass from the inside, replace the plywood and then reglass it, for most people this is a job for a professional.

Also, there should NOT be a gap between the transom and the well although I have seen a few where Mac didn't get the gap filled all the way, if you have a gap there you should also fill it to make it solid.

I hope this helps, and I'll be hoping along with you that it is dry in there.

Todd

[Seapup]

I hope this helps, and I'll be hoping along with you that it is dry in there.

Interesting, Thanks for the low down

[LoHo]

You might want to look up HobieCat soft spot repairs; they fairly commonly have areas of delamination that is solved by drilling small holes part way through and injecting fluid epoxy.

[Sveinung]

Both the 26X and 26M (as well as nearly every other boat made) have a wood core in the center of the transom. On some X's we have seen softness caused by the glass coming unstuck from the plywood. The answer to your first question is, it depends on if the transom reinforcement wood is wet or dry. If you unbolt the engine and fish around in the bolt hole and it is not wet, you can inject any good quality filler material into the void and everything should be OK. If it is wet or brown any gooey, then the bolt leaked and the coring is rotting, if this is the case you will need to cut out the glass from the inside, replace the plywood and then reglass it, for most people this is a job for a professional.

Also, there should NOT be a gap between the transom and the well although I have seen a few where Mac didn't get the gap filled all the way, if you have a gap there you should also fill it to make it solid.

I hope this helps, and I'll be hoping along with you that it is dry in there.

Todd

This is very offtopic, but I take the chance to ask you here since I did not get answers to my post on this forum.

I searched the forum and saw that your company could deliver rig to a Macgregor 26x.

Is this still a possibility? If it is, could you please contact me at xxxx@gmail.com.

Thanks

[beene]

Don't forget guys

No email address in the open

Best to PM the user you wish to get in touch with

Cheers

[Sveinung]

I`m nott allowed to send PM at this stage

[kmclemore]

I`m nott allowed to send PM at this stage

You should be able to now. I believe once you have three verified posts under your belt you're good to go.

[tp56ihs]

Thanks all for the input. I will let you know what I have found. One of the issues on this boat that may cause the problem is a constant plugged well drain. So I took care of that 1st removing the fiberglassed small drain and installing a 1" drain for the motor well. Will load picture soon as I figure it out.

Tom
Wind Wager

[Three Gypsies]

Both the 26X and 26M (as well as nearly every other boat made) have a wood core in the center of the transom. On some X's we have seen softness caused by the glass coming unstuck from the plywood. The answer to your first question is, it depends on if the transom reinforcement wood is wet or dry. If you unbolt the engine and fish around in the bolt hole and it is not wet, you can inject any good quality filler material into the void and everything should be OK. If it is wet or brown any gooey, then the bolt leaked and the coring is rotting, if this is the case you will need to cut out the glass from the inside, replace the plywood and then reglass it, for most people this is a job for a professional.

Also, there should NOT be a gap between the transom and the well although I have seen a few where Mac didn't get the gap filled all the way, if you have a gap there you should also fill it to make it solid.

I hope this helps, and I'll be hoping along with you that it is dry in there.

Todd

I read , just recently , that no wood is used in the hull of the boat . Only plywood is used in the upper decks (top cap) to stiffen them .

[tp56ihs]

Yep no wood. There was a gap that allowed the inner fiberglass to compress some. Think I will shoot some epoxy into it.

WindWager