bump from trailer when towing

[blues midnight]

Have trailered my 2006 26M a few times since buying it in summer and noticed a pronounced bump from the trailer whenever starting or stopping, seems to be more happen more when trailer is wet. If I pull out or brake very very slowly then no bump happens.

It's the original steel trailer but brake actuator system has been disconnected (no trailer brakes). I'm pretty sure it's not the boat itself moving, I use tiedowns on the sides and an extra tiedown strap on the winch eyelet in addition to the winch strap. I am guessing it may be due to the actuator overload spring allowing the end of the tongue to move forwards and backwards when starting or stopping, I think I can see it in different positions at different times so the end of the tongue seems to still be sliding forwards and backwards. (I know I need to get under there and look to see if the shock absorber is still connected and check out exactly what's going on inside the disconnected actuator tongue)

My questions are:

1) Is this dangerous? It freaks me out each time I feel that bump happen. I worry that the trailer might disconnect from the force of it.
2) Can I disconnect the actuator somehow to stop it sliding back and forth (if indeed this is the case...)

Any help on this issue very much appreciated, thanx!

[Mac26Mpaul]

Here in the land of Oz (not the one near Kansas), we have a lever that you put down on your hitch when you are reversing which stops the cylinder from compressing. Not sure how the original US hitches work (if that's what you use in the UAE), do they have something that holds the actuator in the out position as this will stop that bang.

[Jimmyt]

My 2013 M trailor has a small metal insert that you have to wedge in a slot to defeat the brakes mechanically. I have a small bungee that keeps it in place during backing if the tow vehicle doesn't have the correct connections for the electric defeat. Movement appears to be 3/4" to 1" if I recall, so if your hydraulics are out, that may be your bump. Happy hunting.

[Spector]

My actuator used to leak a bit and I could tell it needed fluid when it started bumping more. If you're not using the brakes, disable the ability for it to slide. Or ignore it.

[blues midnight]

Thanx for the replies. Good to know that bump is not only in my case. Read the actuator manual this morning so will try to disable it with the pin so it doesn't slide. Or I could just live with it I suppose, now that I know it's 'normal'.

No plans to fix the breaks on it, they' were stripped out by the PO cuz of rust, trailer is almost 10 years old but seems ok but not worth much. Not much in the way of trailering laws here yet, it doesn't even have lights, just like the rest of the locals here!

[Azzarac]

Not sure if the M trailers use the same actuators as the X trailors did but mine has a small shock absorber under the actuator to mitigate the forces put upon the trailer when starting and stopping. Over the years the shock will wear out and cause the trailer to slam back and forth with a very annoying thud. You can easily replace these shocks by removing 2 bolts. Once out you can test them by how easily you can compress the shock.

[Paul S]

use the locking pin or fix the brakes. The parts are not expensive.

Im sure its fine letting it slide on the pins, but the banging would annoy me.

[Tomfoolery]

Not sure if the M trailers use the same actuators as the X trailors did but mine has a small shock absorber under the actuator to mitigate the forces put upon the trailer when starting and stopping.

I believe the M trailers used the UFP actuators, which though quite a bit different than the Titan/Dico Model 60 type used on the X trailers, still has a shock absorber. And here's the manual for it(A-60/70/84 maintenance link). http://www.ufpnet.com/actuators/tabid/54/default.aspx I had to look it up - curiosity got the better of me.

[korn_kid_12]

My trailer is falling apart the brake lines were rusted out and useless. I stripped them off, stripped all the parts out of the tongue and bolted and welded a new coupler in there. Reason in my the actual coupler was bent and difficult to lock to the truck by the po. I will snap a picture

[blues midnight]

That's what I was thinking, just bolt/weld on a new coupler minus the actuator, less parts,simpler,less stuff to break/maintain/rust, especially since no trailer laws here, small country and pretty flat terrain.

[LoHo]

I think what the original poster is experiencing is the actuator pivoting with no resistance from the now-disconnected brakes. If there is no back pressure from the hydraulic braking system, the actuator just pivots fore and aft with the momentum of the trailer.

[Paul S]

I think what the original poster is experiencing is the actuator pivoting with no resistance from the now-disconnected brakes. If there is no back pressure from the hydraulic braking system, the actuator just pivots fore and aft with the momentum of the trailer.

right. which is why he needs to either fix it or put the locking tab in the slide hole to keep it from moving

[blues midnight]

Not sure what the "locking tab in the slide hole" is, can you explain? ( can't see one on the trailer and not mentioned in the manual as far as I can tell) thanx for all the replies and help, still quite a newby to all this...

[Tomfoolery]

Not sure what the "locking tab in the slide hole" is, can you explain? ( can't see one on the trailer and not mentioned in the manual as far as I can tell) thanx for all the replies and help, still quite a newby to all this...

See page 10 of the manual I linked to above. I believe that's what he's referring to.

[Paul S]

Not sure what the "locking tab in the slide hole" is, can you explain? ( can't see one on the trailer and not mentioned in the manual as far as I can tell) thanx for all the replies and help, still quite a newby to all this...

See page 10 of the manual I linked to above. I believe that's what he's referring to.

or watch the video http://www.ufpnet.com/movies/UFP_A-60-Lockout.mpg