Stern Tie

[Wind Chime]

I know this group sails in many different environments, but I would like to get a sense of what everyone else is using for stern tie line and equipment, as well as techniques and tips.

Line
- type: floating yellow poly, webing, ?
- diameter
- length

Equipment
- retrieval and storage
- trip lines
- stern bridles
- floats

Attachment points.
- Stern cleats
- outboard motor

Techniques
- shore ties option. around trees, rocks etc.
- dinghy use
- environmental concerns
- knots

Thanks!!

[tewharaunz]

Wind Chime,

When we were going from lagoon to lagoon in the Abel Tasman National park, We put the anchor in the deeper water and tied two stern lines to shore (about 45degrees from centerline). Sometimes we tied to trees and other times we tied them around driftwood and buried them in the sand. People around us also used small danforths they would set or bury. The lagoons only had enough water for us to get in or out for an hour either side of high tide so we were on the dry sand half the time. We looped the dinghy around the stern lines so we could pull our way to/from shore when we were floating.

We just used two 30m nylon (8 to 10mm?) ropes. You can make adjustments to your position by letting out or taking in any/all of them.

[C Buchs]

I'm interested in this thread because one of my winter projects is to add a stern anchor. My plan is to:
1. Upgrade/upsize the stern cleats by adding access holes on both sides under the helm seat. (I also want to add a swim ladder handle)
2. Add a white PVC tube to hold the anchor and rode.
3. I was think of using a 14 lb plow anchor like this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IV ... 16S61GUQY7

We're anchoring around islands on The Columbia River. We have sandy bottoms. We usually find a spot with only a little current.

I want to try setting my bow anchor off shore far enough that when the river goes down we won't ground. Say 15-20 feet offshore. Maybe more depending on how it works. Then I will set the stern anchor on shore. If we keep the stern line loose, we should be able to stay straight throughout the night. I'm hoping that we can just pull in the stern line to get the stern to shore so that we can easily get off. We usually have the dog and letting him out before bed and in the morning hasn't been that easy.

Has anyone done it this way? Any suggestions?

Jeff

[yukonbob]

We've been looking at our next boat and one feature I've seen is a stern reel to attach your stern anchor (or could be tied off). Set your stern anchor, motor forward paying out line from the reel as you go; set your main anchor then tighten/loosen the two until you're where you want to be.

like this:
http://www.ultraanchors.com/quickline.html

[Herschel]

Techniques
- shore ties option. around trees, rocks etc.
- dinghy use
- environmental concerns
- knots

Responding to this aspect of your question, I use a floating polyester rope typically used for water skiing or tubing to tow my dinghy. I use that type of rope because I want a floating line near my engine so I can see where it is at all times. I attach it to the starboard stern cleat for towing so I can get to it even if the rear seat/hatch is up for some reason. You are already familiar, I presume, with the desirability of keeping a dinghy on the downward sloping side of the engine wake so it causes less drag. To do that I have enough line so I can make the needed adjustments as my speed changes. When I anticipate docking, I either bring the dinghy alongside the opposite side to which I am tying up, or I have a crew member board the dinghy and let him or her bring it in on its own after I tie up the Mac.

[RobertB]

I'm interested in this thread because one of my winter projects is to add a stern anchor. My plan is to:
1. Upgrade/upsize the stern cleats by adding access holes on both sides under the helm seat. (I also want to add a swim ladder handle)
2. Add a white PVC tube to hold the anchor and rode.
3. I was think of using a 14 lb plow anchor like this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IV ... 16S61GUQY7
We're anchoring around islands on The Columbia River. We have sandy bottoms. We usually find a spot with only a little current.
I want to try setting my bow anchor off shore far enough that when the river goes down we won't ground. Say 15-20 feet offshore. Maybe more depending on how it works. Then I will set the stern anchor on shore. If we keep the stern line loose, we should be able to stay straight throughout the night. I'm hoping that we can just pull in the stern line to get the stern to shore so that we can easily get off. We usually have the dog and letting him out before bed and in the morning hasn't been that easy.
Has anyone done it this way? Any suggestions?
Jeff

I tried PVC but it broke easily. Ended up using aluminium tube with a PVC cap on the bottom and custom plastic brackets. The slot in the tube keeps the anchor from knocking around - important from a noise point of view and the fact that there is very little room back there with the motor, stern light, and rudder. The chain currently stores in the tube.

I am still working on a good way to manage the rode and recently bought a fabric bucket from Harbor Freight. I currently have a large hook with a strap from WM meant for life rings (not shown in the pictures).
The main reason I installed this is to have an anchor for emergencies at hand for when I start single handing the boat. I currently have all lines aft and an autopilot.

[mastreb]

I'm interested in this thread because one of my winter projects is to add a stern anchor. My plan is to:
1. Upgrade/upsize the stern cleats by adding access holes on both sides under the helm seat. (I also want to add a swim ladder handle)
2. Add a white PVC tube to hold the anchor and rode.
3. I was think of using a 14 lb plow anchor like this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IV ... 16S61GUQY7

We're anchoring around islands on The Columbia River. We have sandy bottoms. We usually find a spot with only a little current.

I want to try setting my bow anchor off shore far enough that when the river goes down we won't ground. Say 15-20 feet offshore. Maybe more depending on how it works. Then I will set the stern anchor on shore. If we keep the stern line loose, we should be able to stay straight throughout the night. I'm hoping that we can just pull in the stern line to get the stern to shore so that we can easily get off. We usually have the dog and letting him out before bed and in the morning hasn't been that easy.

Has anyone done it this way? Any suggestions?

Jeff

For a stern anchor I strongly recommend a Fortress FX-11. It's very light-weight and will hang from a simple bracket. They have excellent holding power in all but rock hard bottoms. Then use another variety of anchor off your bow, such as a bruce or rocna. This way you have different anchors for different situations.

Do not use a floating line for an anchor rode. You want the rode to sink easily and lay on the bottom along with the chain.

[C Buchs]

For a stern anchor I strongly recommend a Fortress FX-11. It's very light-weight and will hang from a simple bracket. They have excellent holding power in all but rock hard bottoms. Then use another variety of anchor off your bow, such as a bruce or rocna. This way you have different anchors for different situations.

Do not use a floating line for an anchor rode. You want the rode to sink easily and lay on the bottom along with the chain.

I've got a Fortress FX-11 on the bow now. Attached to it is 15 feet of chain, then a 15-20 lb. pyramid. I’ve never had trouble with it dragging, but we were trying to get off anchor one morning with the wind blowing and it took about all I had to get the anchor up! I’d need to get a bow roller and can change the bow anchor configuration when I do the stern. My previous owner has almost worn through the rub rail with the anchor line/chain. I should change that too. It’s funny how one mod grows and grows and grows…

Jeff

[Tomfoolery]

My previous owner has almost worn through the rub rail with the anchor line/chain. I should change that too.

BWY has a nice little bow roller for the that straddles the stem fitting, and has a shelf for the bicolor light. It's not intended for storing the anchor, but it is intended to prevent the damage you're experiencing, and presumably make weighing the anchor a lot easier as you can sit on your bum and pull until it's all the way up.

[C Buchs]

My previous owner has almost worn through the rub rail with the anchor line/chain. I should change that too.

BWY has a nice little bow roller for the that straddles the stem fitting, and has a shelf for the bicolor light. It's not intended for storing the anchor, but it is intended to prevent the damage you're experiencing, and presumably make weighing the anchor a lot easier as you can sit on your bum and pull until it's all the way up.

I've looked at the BWY piece. Here's a picture of one installed.

I've heard of problems with the wiring not being long enough. I'd like to go with something like the lights shown in this setup.

Here's another example of how one mod leads to another and another. This group will include bow roller, new lights and new rub rail.
I don't think I'll tackle this this year. I will likely just do this.


Jeff

[Y.B.Normal]

For my cruise to Lake Huron's North Channel, I fabricated 2 reels from PVC pipe (~4'' dia.) and the plastic end caps from some old rope reels. I was able to fit 150' of line on one reel, and 200' on the other. I used this line to go from the stern to shore, where I wrapped it around rocks or trees. I used foam swimming "noodles" to protect the bark on the trees.

Another idea I've seen is to use plastic electric cord reels for the line. It's easy to reel the line in or out, and you can easily tie it on to the pulpits.

[Tomfoolery]

I've looked at the BWY piece. Here's a picture of one installed.

I've heard of problems with the wiring not being long enough.

Wiring can be spliced, and the splices shoved below the deck with the hole then sealed from above.

I'd like to go with something like the lights shown in this setup.

Just be aware that side lights a) are supposed to be mounted higher than the working deck, and b) have to cover an arc of dead-ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam, as does the masthead light (both sides for that one, though, and only under power). That way, when the sidelights and masthead light fade out, the stern light takes over. When under sail alone, if the side lights aren't oriented with their bases parallel as in the pic above, there will be an arc where NO light is visible. Under power, that arc will show white only, so another vessel may interpret that as a vessel moving away from them, while in reality, it may be crossing or even approaching slightly, depending on how close to 22.5 deg. the mounting surface is from parallel to the vessel's centerline.

I know that many power boats are built with recessed side lights, but the COLREGS are clear that it's the skipper's responsibility that they be there (after sundown) and be right. And in fact, boats of any size don't even have to be delivered with any lights at all, unlike motor vehicles.

Just sayin'.