Winterizing

[Interim]

I know this topic comes up a lot, but in a search of the archive I couldn't find a basic list of steps.

I have a yamaha 9.9 four stroke. Are these the steps?
1) Run it out of fuel, and fog the carb as it uses the last bit of gas.
2) Fog the cylinders
3) Change the lowerunit oil

Am I missing anything?

--john

[paul I]

I add Stabil to the fuel and then run the engine to get "Stabilized" fuel into the carb, then disconnect the fuel line at the motor and let it run out of gas. I also change out the crank case oil and replace the oil filter. Of course, to do all that means I also have to get a hose connected to the water rinse port on the lower unit, tape off the water inlets so the water doesn't leak right out of the intakes, all so I can run the engine for the time it takes cycle the gas and get the oil nice and warm. When I ask my mechanical friends why it isn't considered good practice to just wait till spring to change out the oil, they claim that leaving the dirty oil in longer can do harm to the internal parts. I'm skeptical of this, but I do it in the fall anyway.

I have never fogged the carb. I do remove the plugs and fog the cylinders however. And change the plugs every 2 seasons.

[Tomfoolery]

My Honda has carb drains. I run it out of gas (Stabil added, of course), then drain the three carbs. It even came with a short hose just for that purpose. And there's always a not insignificant amount of gas in each of the bowls after it 'runs out'.

[dlandersson]

Find some sort of half-decent humidifier (damp rid, etc) for your boats interior. Change them out before it's needed.

Boat covering - shrink-warp or tarp, etc.

I pull all the cloth, etc, from my boat's interior - but that's me.

I know this topic comes up a lot, but in a search of the archive I couldn't find a basic list of steps.

I have a yamaha 9.9 four stroke. Are these the steps?
1) Run it out of fuel, and fog the carb as it uses the last bit of gas.
2) Fog the cylinders
3) Change the lowerunit oil

Am I missing anything?

--john

[March]

dlandersson wrote:
Find some sort of half-decent humidifier (damp rid, etc) for your boats interior. Change them out before it's needed.

Using a half-decent humidifier to winterize small outboards? How do you do that?
Or maybe the key here is, "change them out before it's needed..."

[yukonbob]

I think de-humidifier was meant. On top of the above oil (engine/leg) change and fuel, I replace my high and low pressure fuel filters every other year, check all sacrificial anodes, change impeller every other year, pull the prop grease the shaft and install new cotter pin, pump grease into every nipple (engine and trailer) give the whole thing a WD40 bath (engine) and wipe and to top it off check and clean all ground / electrical connections and re-attach with dielectric grease to reduce corrosion and ensure positive connection.

[dlandersson]

I stand corrected. De-humidifier for the cabin.

I think de-humidifier was meant. On top of the above oil (engine/leg) change and fuel, I replace my high and low pressure fuel filters every other year, check all sacrificial anodes, change impeller every other year, pull the prop grease the shaft and install new cotter pin, pump grease into every nipple (engine and trailer) give the whole thing a WD40 bath (engine) and wipe and to top it off check and clean all ground / electrical connections and re-attach with dielectric grease to reduce corrosion and ensure positive connection.

[Interim]

got it. I think I can handle those steps.

Am I wasting money on a $200 cover? I've seen several at $800 and more, but I don't know if that is the better way to go or overshooting the mark.

My winters get cold... below zero... and maybe a couple feet of snow.

--john

[Wind Chime]

got it. I think I can handle those steps.

Am I wasting money on a $200 cover? I've seen several at $800 and more, but I don't know if that is the better way to go or overshooting the mark.

My winters get cold... below zero... and maybe a couple feet of snow.

--john

We have an RV cover that works great. Goes on top of a canvas cover and frame.

[yukonbob]

I do very similar to the above but rather than wrap the bottom I stake it out to shed the snow further from the boat and so that the tarp never actually touches the fiberglass.

[Wind Chime]

I know this topic comes up a lot, but in a search of the archive I couldn't find a basic list of steps.

I have a yamaha 9.9 four stroke. Are these the steps?
1) Run it out of fuel, and fog the carb as it uses the last bit of gas.
2) Fog the cylinders
3) Change the lowerunit oil

Am I missing anything?

--john

We have two small 2-stroke engines (4hp & 2.2hp) as well as our 4-stroke 50hp.

I was given a good tip by a marine mechanic who told me that when spraying the fog oil directly into the cylinders, ensure the pistons are in a position farthest away from the spark plug so the entire cylinder gets fog oil.

As well, once a week I pull the starting cord a few inches which keeps everything moving, and helps stop the piston rings from scoring cylinder walls.

I also leave the choke on full, which closes access into the carb which helps keep moisture, dust and insects out.

[Norca]

I have a cover from "sailorstailor"
It was expensive, at over 1000$can by the time it was delivered at home but well worth it as we see winds at 100km/h just about every week during the winter months.
My neighbors travel trailer traveled 30-40 feet across his yard on its own last winter during a storm
Its a good idea to change oil in the fall as the oil get acid from combustion and fresh oil will protect the internals better than old oil
change the lower unit also because if there was any leaks it could contain water and freese causing damage to the seals.
Pour antifreeze down the sink to prevent freezing in the drain hose. Last winter I did not, and the hose split open. We trailered to South Dade Marina in January, and luckily we slept onboard on the trailer before launching. It rained during the night, and I woke up hearing the water leaking under my pillow.
Who knows how far we would have gotten before discovering the problem if we had launched with a broken hose, I always believed the mack was safe because it has no through-hulls, but that drain outlet on the stern is under water when the boat is fully loaded for a cruise.
This winter I will fill the hose with windshield washer for winter use, and then tape the drain from the motor-well so the stuff doesen't dilute.
The motor-well will fill with ice, but if that hose split again rain could fill the cabin and cause a lot of damage.
I also bring the cushions and sails inside the house, set the trailer on blocks and remove the tires, I spray light metal protector on the beake discs to reduce corrotion
The OP asked about outboard and I am getting off topic a little

[Interim]

I have a cover from "sailorstailor"

The OP asked about outboard and I am getting off topic a little

No worries. All tips are needed and welcome. I put my trailers up on Jack Stands, but haven't pulled the wheels off.

I was told that putting a little light engine oil--maybe even 2 stroke oil--in the cynlinder works better than fogging them. I think this presumes you crank it a little to coat the oil on all surfaces. Anyone done this?

--john

[Wind Chime]

I was told that putting a little light engine oil--maybe even 2 stroke oil--in the cynlinder works better than fogging them. I think this presumes you crank it a little to coat the oil on all surfaces. Anyone done this?

--john

John,

A little engine oil and then cranking the engine will not coat the entire cylinder, although this is better than doing nothing.

Use fog-oil, NOT engine oil.

- Fog oil is in a pressurized can, and therefore when sprayed it literally turns into an expanding fog (foam) and coats everything.
- Putting regular engine oil into the cylinder will at best coat the bottom of the cylinder (gravity) unless you plan on lifting the motor and rotating it over and over and upside down to get the oil to coat the top and sides of the cylinders top of pistons etc.

Darry

[Spector]

I'm not sure I agree with the idea of pulling the starter cord occasionally thru the winter. Your piston rings are going to remove all the anti fog off the cylinder walls. Fog it and leave it alone till startup