How do I remove the tach?

[Jimmyt]

Don't mean to speak for anyone else, but I was assuming that you weren't just pulling the tach out because you had run out of stuff to do... Begs the question, why? Inquiring minds want to know...

[BOAT]

It's a surprize!!

I'll send pictures later!!

[Russ]

He's using the hole to build a chute to drop beer cans down into the garbage in the cabin.

--Russ

[Jimmyt]

Clever! The hole is about the perfect size already, and drinking heavily at the helm is always a great idea.

Maybe an A/C diffuser for a little spot cooling on a hot day?

A funnel and tube for a helm to cabin intercom?

A funnel and tube for a helm to head urinal extension?

Geez, the suspense is killing me...

[BOAT]

A person my age should always use glasses so I would never drink from beer cans whilst at the helm, but a beer TAP would be a good idea - and a hose down the pedestal to a kegerator is not a bad idea but the beer tap should be on the side of the pedestal, not the front or it would impede the wheel and be dangerous.

Intercom is a good idea. If I did an intercom it would be more modern than the old style funnel and tube and I would use the soup can and string - much lighter and more modern, but the hole is not large enough for the soup can. (I'm wondering why no one mentioned a glove compartment.)

The A/C is a non starter because the thermostat for my A/C is in the cabin so it can't tell when it's hot outside in the cockpit - (gee, I thought you guys would know that).

All good ideas and very tempting, the urinal is a starter but it misses the mark.

You will all just have to wait for the pictures.

[Highlander]

install 3" deck plates on ur pedestal save urself a lot of grief


I have three of these on my pedestal if u like I can take more pic,s one on each side at diff heights & one on the front , the front one also incorporates a cockpit white / red led light
Just makes life so much easier when accessing that area

J

[BOAT]

I'm more interested in that grab handle that goes all the way to the floor than the deck plate (also a good idea) but the grab handle that goes all the way to the floor is a really really good idea - where do I get one?

[Highlander]

I'm more interested in that grab handle that goes all the way to the floor than the deck plate (also a good idea) but the grab handle that goes all the way to the floor is a really really good idea - where do I get one?

Well now because i,m such a nice guy here,s my plans I designed & made it myself , this is not to be used for commercial use without my permission, u can use it to make ur own personal one but not for resale .
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee20 ... r/scan.jpg

extra brkt,s added for strength a must do here the brkt,s r installed externally for display reason only they r installed inside the pedestal for permanent installation
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee20 ... 0004-1.jpg

internal install
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee20 ... 010059.jpg

the top section was a straight length of ss tube I had U shaped by a S S Outfitter cost was $20. on I believe 9.5" centers the rest I shaped myself with a pipe bender
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee20 ... 0015-1.jpg

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee20 ... 0012-4.jpg

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee20 ... 0011-1.jpg





originally designed & made for my but removed it from my & extended to fit my
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/m ... 010007.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/m ... 010006.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/m ... 010005.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/m ... 010004.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/m ... 010003.jpg

U will have to double check these measurements as I designed it in two diff heights their was the short version that i made first for my but it will still fit the as I installed the M pedestal on my
but when I installed it on my I modified it slightly & made it approx 19" taller

J

[BOAT]

That's a lot of fabrication. So would I just use a conduit hand bender and some chrome tube?

[BOAT]

Okay I finally got the tach removed. Here is the surprise picture I promised:



Does this look okay?

[Jimmyt]

It's absolutely lovely! Just wish I had a before picture so I could brag on the specific nature of your genius! But, it really does look good.

[Russ]

Looks really good BOAT. As weird as you are, I have to say I love your mods. They always look top notch.

Now what kind of rudder control? Bagel or tiller pilot?
I'm dying to see what you come up with for that.

I'm gonna wait through this winter for Vic's AP. if he doesn't have it ready for market by then I was thinking of a solenoid (like an automotive car lock) to disengage the tiller pilot. Not sure I like it connected full time.

Again, nice work. Kudos.

--Russ

[BOAT]

As weird as you are, your mods. They always look top notch.

I get that a LOT. Being slightly autistic makes me a bit strange, but it sure helps with imagination and numbers. It's all geometry and math.

Not sure I like it connected full time.

Trust me; you WON’T like the AP connected full time. The first time I turned the wheel with the drive engaged I knew I hated it. And even more I HATE a bagel on my wheel, so I installed a tiller drive unit, but I did it differently than what most others did. No disrespect for the infamous “Resin soaked Block of Wood” but I chose a different route that keeps the drive up high tucked away from my toes when I sleep on the berth. The way I did it also allows the drive unit to be disconnected from the cockpit with no solenoids or electric wires.



I made this thingamabob deal to disconnect the drive unit from the tiller arm:



I can disconnect and connect the drive unit right from the cockpit real easy and real fast.

There are other problems with that drive unit they don't tell you about like:

1. the ram only extends 9.5 inches but our tiller arms swing 13.5 inches
2. the RayMarine manual calls for a tiller at least 14 to 18 inches long but our MAC tiller arms are only 13 inches!
3. the ram is machine grade steel and metal with 3/8" IPS threads at the end like a real ram you see on airplanes and factory equipment but RayMarine put a PLASTIC tip on it! I suspect that's their engineered point of failure for us 'consumers'. I can only assume they were afraid a metal ram end would break boats so they downgraded the end tip to a 'consumer grade plastic' piece to break before the boat breaks.

So I fixed all those problems too.

[Russ]

Wow! Great work and great info.

I can wait another season for Vic. We're at the end of Summer soon now anyway. However, if he doesn't have it by next season, I want to do this.

So PLEASE document this more. Looks fantastic and I knew you would find a way to decouple the actuator. I'm dying to see more.

--Russ

[BOAT]

Wow! Great work and great info.

So PLEASE document this more. Looks fantastic and I knew you would find a way to decouple the actuator. I'm dying to see more.

--Russ

Well, okay I guess, if you want I can start a new thread if you think anyone might be interested. Anyways, for you Russ if you like it, here is what I did:

~~~~~~~~~~~
I got a piece of real lightweight aluminum and shaped it like this:


The aluminum extension bolts on top of the tiller arm to extend it to 14.5 inches because RayMarine says the minimum is 14 inches. This fixes that.

Then I dealt with that cheap plastic thing they stuck in the end of the ram. I put a REAL ram end on it made of nickle just like on the big navy ships:


And I made a trap cage on the aluminum extension to grab the ram ball:


The ball can only escape when the tiller is exactly 90 degrees, (dead amidships). The ball lifts right out.
(I never noticed how banged up my workbench has gotten).



Should I go on? Is this already too boring?

. . . . .