How far does your dagger go down?

[Russ]

I recently looked at the specifications of the M and the factory web site states a draft of 5'9" down and 12" up.

So looking at the dagger control line, it doesn't appear to travel 4' 9" when I lower it. How far does your dagger travel when lowered? I'm curious if my stop knot is too high and that's why my boat points so poorly, the board isn't far enough down.

--Russ

[seahouse]

Confirm - 4'9". Or nearabouts, set as you say, by the stop knot position.

[Ixneigh]

Re poor pointing
Not saying that yours isn't caused by a DB issue but I have found that there are about 5534667 different things that will also have that effect on an M.
A few pounds of seaweed on the rudders will nearly cripple the boat (as I found out this week)
Improper weight distribution.
ANY fouling on the bottom
Any but the most effective sail trim for a given course and wind.
Allowing the boat to stall or sail too slowly.

The boat must have been designed with software used to model aircraft since it seems to be just as picky.
NOT like my heavy keel boat that would still sail fairly well with horrible sail trim and a cruddy bottom.
It's weight plowed through chop, and it didn't stop the minute someone at the helm lost attention and puffed.

Plus the M has literally twice the freeboard of the keel boat. Lots of windage that a pretty modest sail area has to propel.

Ix

[Highlander]

Adding more weight to the bow will improve pointing !! with fully extended D/B

J

[Russ]

I was heading to the boat today to check. Major accident on the highway the closed it down for helicopter air evac turned me back home. I'll check tomorrow how far down it's going.

[DaveB]

My Draft on my XCenterboard is 5ft 7 inches, The M is a few inches less.
In Florida you have to be out 5 miles to put board down.
MacX you hit and board goes up, MacM you hit board breaks.
MacX is always the boat for shallow grounds in Florida.
Dave

I recently looked at the specifications of the M and the factory web site states a draft of 5'9" down and 12" up.

So looking at the dagger control line, it doesn't appear to travel 4' 9" when I lower it. How far does your dagger travel when lowered? I'm curious if my stop knot is too high and that's why my boat points so poorly, the board isn't far enough down.

--Russ

[Russ]

The X with its kick up centerboard is definitely a better shoal draft boat. Haven't seen many threads on how to repair it.

We sail in an average depth of 150' so I want it all the way down.....especially when pointing in light winds.
My boat doesn't seem to have a good foot in the water...high freeboard and fairly flat bottom doesn't help. Maybe the board isn't going all the way down. I'm going to measure the travel.

--Russ

[Russ]

Okay....went sailing today and measured the distance from the stop knot to the end where it hits....36". Therefore, my board only goes down 3' to a max depth of 4'. The Mac26m website claims the board down draft is 5'9".
So, like the commercial "What's in your wallet?", "How far down does your dagger go?

Should I move the stop knot so it goes further down and increase pointing performance? This may explain why my boat points so poorly in light winds. Yea, I know...high freeboard, lots of things, but 1' 9" less of board might be a factor as well. Getting that knot out will be fun. If I do, will there be too little left in the boat and make it fragile?

--Russ

[seahouse]

The minimum amount of daggerboard that must stay in the trunk (I think) is defined in the owner's manual, and (I think) it's about 14", maybe 16". So you can adjust the stop knot so that it gives you that amount of overlap and still have enough remaining that is sufficiently strong. It's possible to beef it up a bit if you want, as I did below.

I originally intended to mark the line at intervals, but once I got into using it found that it's easy to judge fractions of the 5-foot full extension without them. When in a slip you can easily and quiclky gauge the depth of the bottom by dropping the daggerboard until it hits, and judge by the length of line remaining. It will tell you if your rudders are in danger of hitting bottom too. Good where water levels rise and fall.

I strengthened the trailing edge of the top 16" of the daggerboard to give it a larger contact area than the sharp edge would give. Will reduce up and down wear, friction (you don't have to bear off as far to raise and lower), and allow it to take a larger biff without damage.

Just filled a section of slit PEX tubing, and then faired it, with polyester resin...

[Russ]

Wow! That looks fantastic. I bet it keeps it from flopping around as well. Very nice.

Just filled a section of slit PEX tubing, and then faired it, with polyester resin...

[seahouse]

Thanks Russ. To stop the flop I also installed 2 strips of adhesive-backed neoprene (1/4" X 1" X 12" long) inside the daggerboard trunk, as high as I could reach from underneath, which would have been just above the water line. Last time I checked, last year, they were still in place after 4 seasons, and working.

The big bummer for me when I look back at these pictures is, after all the work I did to get it how I want it, I am selling the boat. The admiral, though she tried, just can't get comfortable on the water. Lucky for the next owner, I guess.

[jstyers]

The manual says not to allow it to extend more than 57" below the top of the cabin. So assuming it is pretty close to flush with the bottom of the boat when fully retracted, I'd say about 56".

When I measured the length of the safety line on my daggerboard it was about 42". I was replacing it anyway and allowed a 54" line just to make sure I didn't cross the line.

Excerpt from the manual: "Never let the top of the board go more than 57” below the level
of the deck. If it goes lower, it will not have adequate support
in the hull, and may be damaged. There is a knot in the lifting
line, and a large washer ahead of the knot that will come to rest
against the cheek block when the board is down as far as it should
go. Do not move the knot. If you replace the line, make sure the
knot is in the same exact position. There is also a safety line that
prevents the top of the board from going more than 57” below the
deck level. Do not remove this line."

[Russ]

The manual says not to allow it to extend more than 57" below the top of the cabin. So assuming it is pretty close to flush with the bottom of the boat when fully retracted, I'd say about 56".

When I measured the length of the safety line on my daggerboard it was about 42". I was replacing it anyway and allowed a 54" line just to make sure I didn't cross the line.

Excerpt from the manual: "Never let the top of the board go more than 57” below the level
of the deck. If it goes lower, it will not have adequate support
in the hull, and may be damaged. There is a knot in the lifting
line, and a large washer ahead of the knot that will come to rest
against the cheek block when the board is down as far as it should
go. Do not move the knot. If you replace the line, make sure the
knot is in the same exact position. There is also a safety line that
prevents the top of the board from going more than 57” below the
deck level. Do not remove this line."

The manual? Why didn't I think of that. I've always treated it as a car manual. How to change fuses is about all it's worth.

Hmm....great info. This fit's perfectly. 57" = 4' 9" which added to 12" draft is the exact depth the factory website claims is the draft of the boat (5' 9").
Okay...so I'm moving the stopper knot at least 12"...maybe 1 foot 9" mark at max and then making marks every foot so I can adjust it. I bet this will improve pointing in light winds having at least 12" more foot in the water....with 21" more even better.


--Russ

[Ixneigh]

How does the x sail in say, two or three feet of water ? Will it sail with no board down at all?
Ix

[Catigale]

Oh happy dagger...there is thy slot. There let thee not rust and let me dock....