Wrecked Yamaha Update

A forum for discussing topics relating to MacGregor Powersailor Sailboats
User avatar
Sloop John B
Captain
Posts: 871
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2004 2:45 am
Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
Location: Florida 'Big Bend'. 02x Yamaha T50

Wrecked Yamaha Update

Post by Sloop John B »

This started out on a distant string some of you are familiar with, but it can be summed up. In replacing a prop, I failed to pry the thrust washer off the old prop and slide it on the spline before putting the new prop on. This allowed the new aluminum prop to self destruct while biting into the aluminum lower casing of the motor. Its likely to have made it to the bearing housing, referred to as a carrier.

The great grandchildren of the Robber Barons have gone into the outboard repair business.

The Tallahassee dealer tells me it involves 3.4 hours work at $75 an hour. They are insistent about supplying their own parts. The motor can be fixed for $1,359.

The Panacea dealer tells me the parts will run $950 and that labor will run between 6 and 8 hours at $70 an hour.

I call the dealer in Perry (sixty miles east of here). Hes so busy he hasnt time to figure it out. He says, Drop the lower assembly and bring it over so I can take a look at it.

Drop the lower assembly?

Yeah, theres just three bolts, comes right out.

I go down to this shade tree mechanic in Ochlockonee Bay, whom I usually go to, and he says, Yeah, happens all the time. Ill weld a piece of aluminum on to replace the lost casing and that will take care of your cavitation problem. Might have to replace the carrier and then shim in a new one, theyre all different. Could run $600, but Ill see what I can save.

I can get an entire lower unit assembly from Central Florida Yamaha (boatsnet.com) for $874.35. I confront the Tallahassee dealer with this and he says they are refurbished parts from other motors and it will fall apart. Central says the assembly is brand new from Yamaha and itll take a couple days to get a hold of one.

I wonder where truth lies. I can hear little horns going off in the background. This is from a skit on a radio show I listened to in my childhood. I think it was Jack Benny. Every time a lie was told a horn would go off. I cant remember who Jack was talking with, someone between a used car salesman and a politician. It would start out with little trumpet toots. Then the trombones. Worked its way up to tuba blasts. Finally, the whole wind section.

The adjuster from USAA said dealers mark their parts up 40%. Hes sympathetic, helpful and friendly. I wonder if he knows Im on three years probation with the auto claims section. That was for destroying a Kia Reo while backing out of a parking slot at Wal Marts. Didnt even knock the mud off my GMC fender. The three years is if this happens again, Ill be back with the 19 year old males for premium assessment.

Id like to go the simple inexpensive route of welding. I dont know if this a rare operation that could fail, or could only be considered temporary. Or, if it would make it good as new. :?
User avatar
Tony D-26X_SusieQ
First Officer
Posts: 306
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 7:20 am
Location: Mayo, Maryland

Post by Tony D-26X_SusieQ »

Everybody knows that as a boat owner we have lots of money to burn. After you cut off an arm and a leg and send it in you can expect the repair shop to hold onto your boat for about a month for a 2 hour repair. :evil:

Sorry to hear about your problems. I was in a similar boat last season. Took me six weeks to get my boat back and I only put it in for the 100 hour service. I finally made them tell me how many boats were ahead of me and made sure the number went down enery couple of days. They had it done in 4 days after I started pinning them down. :x
User avatar
DLT
Admiral
Posts: 1516
Joined: Mon Dec 06, 2004 10:24 am
Location: Kansas City 2005M 40hp ETEC

Post by DLT »

I vote with Moe...

If it truely is only three bolts to remove the lower unit and replace it with a brand new one, that extra $275 would be well spent peace of mind...

Then, you'll also have a spare, should that mechanic be able to fix it for cheap...

By the way, where do you store a spare lower unit? I bet Moe has one in his spare parts kit...
Mark Prouty
Admiral
Posts: 1723
Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2004 8:52 am
Location: Madison, WI Former MacGregor 26X Owner

Post by Mark Prouty »

Sloop,
You're in a tough situation. I was there once a few years ago. I thought I'd go all fancy and bought fast speed boat with an stainless steel prop. Well, stainless steel might cut through the water nice but it sure doesn't give like aluminum. I hit something and took out the lower unit. I didn't feel comfortable with fixing it myself so I ordered the lower unit and had a local mechanic install it. I remember the total came to about $1200. Blast it! It took him weeks to fix it in prime boating season. Troubles with the lower unit are very expensive.

Your shade tree mechanic says he might have to replace the carrier (bearing housing ). If he had to do this wouldn't this, eliminate the need for welding. He would have to then buy a carrier. I had a 60hp Johnson that I took to a shade tree mechanic. I'd get to the same spot in the lake about 3 miles from the landing and the motor would die. He replaced parts twice and said it was fixed. Turns out the motor was overheating and ceasing-up everytime. The third time out and it was over for that motor. I think these shade tree mechanics can end up costing you more in the end.

If you don't want to install it yourself, I suggest taking the boat to the Tallahassee dealer if he can assure you he can fix it in a timely manner then as Tony suggested keep calling them for time updates. I just took a look on line at a gear case gear case. It was priced at $1272.50.

The entire lower unit assembly from Central Florida Yamaha (boatsnet.com) for $874.35 seems like an exceptional deal. When the mecanic installed the lower unit on my speedboat, he showed me a little how it was done. As I recall, there is one tricky alignment problem. You could get a manual or find one on line and see what it would take to do this job yourself.

Rats and all you need to replace is this thing.

Image

Can't someone give you a good price on just the gearcase? I'd think that would be easy enough to install yourself. Would taking the gearcase off the entire lower unit assembly from Central Florida and using it to replace yours be the way to go?

People! Boaters are not made out of money here!!
User avatar
Steve
Engineer
Posts: 186
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 10:33 am
Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
Location: '99 X, "The Doghouse", Nashville, Tennessee
Contact:

Post by Steve »

I tip my hat for the new lower unit. Sounds like you may be able to replace it yourself if it's just three bolts.

Is there a Haynes or Chiltons manual for Yamaha 50's? That would sure help.

You also may need someone to hold the new unit in place while you run the bolts through.

Has anyone else replaced a lower unit? Is it really only three bolts and it drops?

Hey, at least you'll have some spare parts, or you can have the wife make the old one into a flower pot! :wink:

Steve 8)
:macx:
User avatar
mike
Captain
Posts: 812
Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2003 8:06 pm
Location: MS Gulf Coast "Wind Dancer" 98 26X

Post by mike »

Sheesh... $850, $600, $1300. All you need is a little duct tape, and your motor will be good as new. :)

--Mike
User avatar
Bobby T.-26X #4767
Captain
Posts: 906
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 10:48 am
Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
Location: Oceanside Harbor, CA

Post by Bobby T.-26X #4767 »

mackatt68
Deckhand
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2004 1:45 pm

Bought a lower unit on eBay

Post by mackatt68 »

I destroyed the lower unit on my 92 Force 90HP. Even dumber story than yours, didn't make sure the drain plug was in tight, lost it and all of the lower unit oil. The upper bearing in the drive shaft seized which caused the drive shaft to break in two. After getting the same song and dance as you are, I determined from looking thru the Clymer book and a hint from a Force rebuilder in CA, that lower units from 90-150HP and 1990-1998 are virtually interchangeable. Bottom line, instead of $1200.00 and up, bought one on eBay for $385.00, ready to bolt on, fill-up, really tighten the drain plug, I was back in business.
User avatar
Tom Root
Captain
Posts: 560
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 11:39 pm
Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
Location: Annville, PA. s/v-Great White, MacX4787A202,'09 Suzuki DF-50

Post by Tom Root »

Mark Prouty wrote:Sloop,
You're in a tough situation. I was there once a few years ago. I thought I'd go all fancy and bought fast speed boat with an stainless steel prop. Well, stainless steel might cut through the water nice but it sure doesn't give like aluminum. I hit something and took out the lower unit. I didn't feel comfortable with fixing it myself so I ordered the lower unit and had a local mechanic install it. I remember the total came to about $1200. Blast it! It took him weeks to fix it in prime boating season. Troubles with the lower unit are very expensive.


People! Boaters are not made out of money here!!
Mark, very good point and the wisdom imparted here to me would be to have the prop be the weak link! The composite prop (Plastic) I have is performing great and the big benefit will be realized someday when I trash a prop when it tangles with flotsam or whatever else lurks below the surface of the water to eat it!

The Piranha brand suits me just fine, and I always carry extra blades that can be replaced on the hub in about 10 mins. and also the original aluminum prop!

No Stainless props for me! Thank you for sharing this tidbit, it has convinced me I went with the best material in that I can sacrifice the prop and lose maybe 80 bucks, or trash a whole lower unit for the big bucks!
Frank C

Post by Frank C »

Hmmm ... $875 plus shipping?
A BoatBuck covers it with enough left for lunch at Burger King.
:|
No worries, John!
:(
Mark Prouty
Admiral
Posts: 1723
Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2004 8:52 am
Location: Madison, WI Former MacGregor 26X Owner

Re: Bought a lower unit on eBay

Post by Mark Prouty »

mackatt68 wrote:Bottom line, instead of $1200.00 and up, bought one on eBay for $385.00, ready to bolt on, fill-up, really tighten the drain plug, I was back in business.
Ebay to the rescue again! Give it a shot.
Frank C wrote:Hmmm ... $875 plus shipping?
A BoatBuck covers it with enough left for lunch at Burger King.
:|
(
Wonder what the conversion factor is? :?
Frank C

Post by Frank C »

According to Chapman's .... BoatBuck = $1,000.

(Honest, really!)
:D
User avatar
flbum
Deckhand
Posts: 47
Joined: Thu Nov 25, 2004 6:18 am
Location: Venice, FL "Carribean Amphibian" 2005M Yamaha T50

Post by flbum »

Sloop John B,

I'd like to hear the conclusion to this story. I have a Yamaha T50 also. Sorry about your mishap, but your experiences might prove beneficial to me someday.

I was tempted to buy my engine from Central Florida Yamaha. When I was shopping for a T50, I found them to have the best prices in the state... that I could find. However, I opted to pay a little more and get the engine locally. It turned out to be a lot more in the end. Then again, I haven't dealt with CFY, so I don't know for sure. I just know that their advertised and quoted prices seem to be the best around.

With your choices so far, I would be leaning toward the CFY new part rather than the Ebay route... unless you got an unbelievably killer deal. First I would see what is involved in the actual replacement and identify a local mechanic to install it if it looks too hard.

Then again, the Admiral would probably get onto me about considering doing that job myself and remind me about the amount of time I've spent working on the roller furling / rigging while telling her "I'm so close to finishing this project".

Good luck! Hope that you post the results...

Regard,
ROB
User avatar
Casey
Chief Steward
Posts: 86
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 9:31 am
Location: Gulf Coast, MS 98xMerc50hp 2cycle 11.25dia 10pitch 3 blade "Good Winds Karma"

Post by Casey »

Sloop John B

I had to work through the lower unit decisions last year. It was easy to remove my lower unit and water pump assembly. You should get a manual if you are going to do any of the work yourself. Rebuilding the lower unit would have required purchasing some special tools and an investment of time I did not have. If you have a boat shop do the work they will keep your boat for a long time. I purchased the Chilton's? manual and didn't like it and purchased the factory manual which was easier to follow.

For $275 dollars difference, my vote is for a new lower unit. Have your shade tree mechanic assist in making sure your shifting shaft spacings are correct or puchase a manual and follow the instructions.
User avatar
Sloop John B
Captain
Posts: 871
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2004 2:45 am
Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
Location: Florida 'Big Bend'. 02x Yamaha T50

Post by Sloop John B »

Casey, I'd got the impression the lower assembly would simply 'fall off'. Not true. Solid as a rock with all bolts off. I called Central, they were a little abrupt about hadn't I done such and such with a gear shaft or a shift shaft. A 10mm bolt. I don't know what they're talking about. There is nothing obvious from looking at it. No Yamaha dealer will assist unless I buy their golden parts. My search is now for a knowledgeable gent who can help me.

Having it 'repaired' is out of sight because of the cost of the two or three parts. I will have to have it 'replaced'.

Reminds me when my computer was on the blink when in the Navy. Guy comes around and says what's the problem. There was some little thing. He unplugs it and throws and whole thing in the trash and lays out a new one. Cheaper that way.
Locked