Nissan NS5B 5hp Outboard water pump, lower end repair

[NavySailor]

Hey guys, thanks for the info.

I did the work on the motor, ended up not taking it to a shop. The broken stud, I believe is in a blind hole. It's not in the carb, it's in the crank case. 2 bolts go through the carb and into the crank case thus securing the carb onto its face.

I bought the smallest extractor they had, a #1. I also bought a 1/16" Milwaukee Black Oxide drill bit, resist breaking, precision start with no walking ... we'll see. I didn't get around to working on the motor last night. Hopefully tonight.

I'll be picking up the new motor this Friday!!! I think I got a great deal - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tohatsu-8hp-Fou ... true&rt=nc

Hopefully the Nissan 5 will get fixed soon and I can sell it to help pay for its replacement.

[81venture]

I wish I had seen this earlier

I have a bad habit of pretty much hanging out in the Mac forum.....

Be very careful with "Extractors" I've been working on outboards and International Scouts (old trucks ) for years. I have never actually been able to successfully use one. however with the old stuff I work on usually a bolt snaps from age trying to come off, not going back on, and it's past the point of any "extraction tool"

I also had a friend try one of these on a broke starter mount bolt...he broke the extractor off in the bolt hole, and at that point there was NO WAY to drill out that hardened steel tool.....I fabbed together another style of bolt/bracket to fix that one...so in other words BE CAREFUL!! I personally wouldnt try it.

So here is some advice, and two other things to consider.

1. You have learned already that gorilla strength is a bad idea. In the future remember you are using stainless steel bolts/nuts/etc on usually aluminum cast metal....two dissimilar metals. Unlike car rust and steel, aluminum cast corrodes, and stainless bolts do not...quite often I have issues with parts of the cast threading coming off with the steel bolt. Stainless is also a softer metal than hardened automotive bolts, so if you "tighten" it like you do a steel bolt they are easy to snap. When dealing with outboards use the "German-Torque" settings...if you are not familiar with this it's easy. tighten down the bolt until it is snug, then a small "tweak" more until it is "Gudentieght"

2. If you have a welder, might want to drill into the SS bolt, stick a scrap bolt in it and burn a couple small spot welds and pull it out with the hex head of the scrap bolt. I've done this a lot....careful as Cast alum melts...small pinpoint spot welds only...usually 3 points of contact is enough.

3. If not, then you might try and drill out the SS, but not all the way in diameter and instead leave a 'sleeve" of SS steel....tap this out and use a smaller bolt with a washer in the new threads. You're talking about a carburator hold down, not a "moving part" so it just needs to be good and snug

Anyway, whatever you do be careful...."EASY OUTS" (Drill extractor tools) rarely work, and usually it ends in tears....

Dave

[81venture]

I wish I had seen this earlier

I have a bad habit of pretty much hanging out in the Mac forum.....

Be very careful with "Extractors" I've been working on outboards and International Scouts (old trucks ) for years. I have never actually been able to successfully use one. however with the old stuff I work on usually a bolt snaps from age trying to come off, not going back on, and it's past the point of any "extraction tool"

I also had a friend try one of these on a broke starter mount bolt...he broke the extractor off in the bolt hole, and at that point there was NO WAY to drill out that hardened steel tool.....I fabbed together another style of bolt/bracket to fix that one...so in other words BE CAREFUL!! I personally wouldnt try it.

So here is some advice, and two other things to consider.

1. You have learned already that gorilla strength is a bad idea. In the future remember you are using stainless steel bolts/nuts/etc on usually aluminum cast metal....two dissimilar metals. Unlike car rust and steel, aluminum cast corrodes, and stainless bolts do not...quite often I have issues with parts of the cast threading coming off with the steel bolt. Stainless is also a softer metal than hardened automotive bolts, so if you "tighten" it like you do a steel bolt they are easy to snap. When dealing with outboards use the "German-Torque" settings...if you are not familiar with this it's easy. tighten down the bolt until it is snug, then a small "tweak" more until it is "Gudentieght"

2. If you have a welder, might want to drill into the SS bolt, stick a scrap bolt in it and burn a couple small spot welds and pull it out with the hex head of the scrap bolt. I've done this a lot....careful as Cast alum melts...small pinpoint spot welds only...usually 3 points of contact is enough.

3. If not, then you might try and drill out the SS, but not all the way in diameter and instead leave a 'sleeve" of SS steel....tap this out and use a smaller bolt with a washer in the new threads. You're talking about a carburator hold down, not a "moving part" so it just needs to be good and snug

Anyway, whatever you do be careful...."EASY OUTS" (Drill extractor tools) rarely work, and usually it ends in tears....

Dave

[81venture]

I'm not sure why it posted 3 times...

Admins....HELP!!
lol

[RobertB]

Thanks for the caution on using easy-outs - I thought it was just me that could never make them work - and end up with a harder task of getting the broken easy-out removed. I agree that easy-outs are fine for broken bolts that are NOT stuck (just broken such as due to over tightening).
My favorite go-to tool for this situation is a Dremel tool with a carbide cutting bit. I drill out the broken bolt with a smaller bit and then carefully grind until the flange threads start appearing. Then, if I can use a sharp awl to pick out the threads - great. Sometimes I end up just re-tapping the threads, oversize if needed. And always using penetrating oil.