Battery replacement

[dlandersson]

I just replaced my tow beast battery (warranty expired 9/13). I'm thinking I should be proactive and replace my boat batteries before they up and quit on me.

I put in very nice Marine batteries with a 3 year warranty in 2011



Any thoughts on keeping/replacing batteries?

[Russ]

Yes, marine batteries for the both of them. The "starting" battery really doesn't apply to our small outboards. If we had a big V8 diesel that might be different.

I've heard good things about the Wal-Mart marine batteries. That's what I put in mine.

[yukonbob]

I'm a big fan of the optima blue tops for the boat. A little more but less hassle.

[Boblee]

If you make both batteries the same you won't have any charging problems and you can use them both if needed for house, if worried about your start battery not starting use a voltage sensitive relay to take it off load early, as said our motors start easy and it's a shame to not use that battery when needed for other duties.
Plenty of good battery types about, optima have the name but incorrect use will kill them as easy as the other cheaper ones.

[dreamer]

I changed out original battery late in the 2009 season with 2 flooded deep cycle batteries (group 24) from Costco. I believe they were made by Johnson Controls. Has worked very well so far. I plan on using them one more season maybe two.

[Russ]

Ditto on keeping them both identical. Fewer charging issues.
For me, deep cycle is important. I run a 12v fridge and solar panel to charge stuff back up (no AC dockside power).

Those optima batts seems interesting. Fairly pricey though. I should probably learn more about them.

As for starting, I bet we could start our motors with 2 9v batteries in a series. It doesn't take much to turn these motors. I used to carry a jumper pack in case. Amazon has this very interesting device http://www.amazon.com/PowerAll-PBJS1200 ... umper+pack Reviews are fantastic and it's tiny and easy to store.

[yukonbob]

Ditto on keeping them both identical. Fewer charging issues.
For me, deep cycle is important. I run a 12v fridge and solar panel to charge stuff back up (no AC dockside power).

Those optima batts seems interesting. Fairly pricey though. I should probably learn more about them.

As for starting, I bet we could start our motors with 2 9v batteries in a series. It doesn't take much to turn these motors. I used to carry a jumper pack in case. Amazon has this very interesting device http://www.amazon.com/PowerAll-PBJS1200 ... umper+pack Reviews are fantastic and it's tiny and easy to store.

The biggest thing I've noticed with people experiencing failure with optima's is there are two types of blue tops…one has a grey case and the other is black. Get the grey one as it is the deep cycle. The black is a starting battery and will not take repeated low discharges like the deep cycles. I found them for $150 at Costco in Juneau so I'm sure you can find them cheaper down south.

[seahouse]

Your action is all dependent on how inconvenient, or risky, a suddenly dead battery would be for you.

Since you have two in this case, it shouldn't be too inconvenient at all. If one dies, and you are prepared, just switch to the other until you can replace the bad one. (There are exceptions - if, for example, I were doing a long trip, I would replace them, or one). In the case of a vehicle, in some situations, it might be a different story. Except for abuse, it's highly unlikely that they would both die at the same time. If they are treated well, and maintained properly, they can last a long time past their warrantee expiry date. For the seasonal climate swings here, I seem to have good luck with batteries lasting in cars and boats - the battery in my wife's car is the original - now 9 years old. (Colder temperatures are good for the longevity of a battery, but greatly lower the amps available for cranking the engine).

I personally run batteries until they are done; partly for the experience and the challenge of the game. In the winter, one of my boat batteries resides in the trunk, where it gets the occasional top-up charge, and is always on standby ready in case I need to boost someone else, or maybe even myself. Also a bit of extra weight directly over the drive wheels (other locations can be a liability) for better traction.

The battery in that car is now 12 years old and counting, cranking a V8 as fast as when new on startup, and running power and heated (seats windows mirrors etc) everything. It has now gotten me through another winter, so will be good until the fall at least, which is when batteries tend to fail here- at the first sign of cold weather. I do have a small solar panel connected to it, but since the car spends most of the time in a garage I don't think it's too significant.

So if that battery dies, it's no inconvenience to me at all with the spare (and cables) in the trunk, even if I happen to be wearing a suit at the time. Also, in hindsight, I would have been the stupidest dope in the world had I replaced it after 3 or 4 years, as is often the procedure recommended by those so eager to sell batteries . (Not that I am at all suggesting that that might be proof I am not the stupidest dope in the world) .

If you want two batteries to match as closely as possible, though, get two with consecutive serial numbers if possible - it's a standard practice in the windmill field. This is not as important if you routinely charge with an AC charger that has separate leads for each battery.

-Brian.

[raycarlson]

I wouldn't worry about replacing 2011 batteries until at least 2017 if you have a little knowledge on maintaining them properly. But I would get to work on cleaning up that mess of a wiring job someone did in your battery compartment. That's an accident waiting to happen.....

[dlandersson]

Good point - I have a nice Perko switch design.I

I also have two kids (5 & 7) - so what is acceptable to me is NOT acceptable when my children might be affected. Lemee think on this. Just bought a "battery tester" on Amazon.

[dlandersson]

When is a good time for you to come up and give me the benefit of your advice?

I wouldn't worry about replacing 2011 batteries until at least 2017 if you have a little knowledge on maintaining them properly. But I would get to work on cleaning up that mess of a wiring job someone did in your battery compartment. That's an accident waiting to happen.....

[Boblee]

I personally run batteries until they are done; partly for the experience and the challenge of the game. In the winter, one of my boat batteries resides in the trunk, where it gets the occasional top-up charge, and is always on standby ready in case I need to boost someone else, or maybe even myself. Also a bit of extra weight directly over the drive wheels (other locations can be a liability) for better traction.

Over the years have developed an obsession almost especially on the boat, starting from a necessity and a few failures I really relate to trying to get the most out of them even the two in the boat now which are not holding charge, I will leave them there until ready to head off this year, left a little solar panel on them so they will start the motor for the service but one was original with the boat and the other was S/H 4 ?years ago both have been run right down several times and been down for periods while in service, so not perfect.
I rescued a battery a while back from a dump, it was dead flat and had to trick it to get it charged but left the ignition and interior lights/ radio in the subaru on for over six hours, I thought it might have been down but no goes like a ripper, I really wonder how many good batteries are tossed.
The new ones for the truck are a ten year build? according to the retailer and a multi or dual purpose battery so ideal for marine, be interesting to see how long I can get out of them.
Mind you plenty of top grade batteries die due to not being kept fully charged or taken down too low even deep cycles, they can do it better but it limits the life still.

[innervations]

I am preparing to replace the two batteries in my as they are 4 years old and not well cared for

Currently have one marine starter and one marine deep cycle. Reading some comments here would I be better to replace with 2 deep cycle given how easy it is to turn over the etech 60?

I have a portable starter battery unit as a backup in case both batteries are too flat to start the outboard. This emergency power pack is always fully charged and ready to go.

[DaveB]

I run twin group 29 marine wet cells deep cycle batteries for house with Frig. and a starter group 24 deep cycle for starter battery.
Both are independent of each other thru a diode and one can never discharge to other.
The twin house are parell so if one battery fails it will draw down the other, that's why I have starter battery separate.
I have a builtin 10 amp AC charger that charges house and starter seperatly and is always pluged in on trailer next to house when not in use.
Those who don't have AC plugin can use a 40 watt solar panel with a controller that prevents over charge.
I am on my 4th year using the $80 Wallmart batteries. All are changed at same time.
House batteries that are often discharged down to 50% should be cked for water once a month.
This works for me and all batteries are strong.
When outboard is started, it will charge the lower batteries first and this will be the house batteries. With a selector switch you can run all your elect. needs off Battery 1 (starter) or 2 (house) that way you start engine on either bank or run needed electronics.
The Diode keeps the separated for reverse current on a bad battery.
This is what you need .
http://www.yandina.com/c100InfoR3.htm
Dave

[Boblee]

Currently have one marine starter and one marine deep cycle. Reading some comments here would I be better to replace with 2 deep cycle given how easy it is to turn over the etech 60?

I would or at least multipurpose (marine) type but would steer away from wet cell vented batteries due to fumes below when charging.