Trailer Tire Options (Triangle TR645)

[Wind Chime]

OK, time for us to buy new trailer tires this spring.

I know this question has been asked before, but I would welcome any new advice from you good folks.

- 2000-X weighs 4350 lbs with boat and trailer loaded for cruising.
- staying with refurbished factory steel trailer with single axel.
- staying with factory size 14 inch tires.

I’ve done lots of research and wisdom says best to use a “D” Load 8 ply tire to take the weight. (But hard to find in 14”).
A local dealer says he does a lot of overloaded boats and camper vans with a tire made by Triangle called a TR645. (195/R14) cost is about $115 Canadian.

Anyone heard of this tire before - any experience?

[Russ]

What is the rating on that tire?
Also, is there room to upgrade to a 15" tire, since these are so hard to find. Might make sense the next time they need replacement.

[Hamin' X]

They are load range "D": Max Load: 2060 Lbs

They are an LT rated tire, for Light Truck

Best to stick with an ST rated tire, which are designed for trailers: Stronger sidewalls and more lubricant in the the tread and casing, due to infrequent use. and resistance to swaying and sidewall cuts.

~Rich

[Boblee]

Personally I think you would be better to upgrade to 15" tyres if you have room as there is more scope to find appropriate tyres and obviously by Haminx's post they are not.
Not sure how much lighter an X is to an M but I know I was well over your weight before loading properly, more like 2250 kg (5,000lb) which is why we uprated trailer as we do long miles if you don't then? you only have the regulators to worry about.

[Wind Chime]

More great talk on an old subject, and I much appreciate it.

Has anyone upgraded from 14" to 15" tires on the 2000 factory steel trailer?

There doesn't seem to be much clearance on the steel fenders. This is why I am resolve to stay with 14" and also do not want to bother going to double axle.

[Boblee]

Wouldn't be too hard to modify or replace mudguards and you would have room to move with tyres, we normally just use LT for trailer tyres here.

[Russ]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't there be only 1/2" more going to a 15" diameter tire?
Seems like there ought to be at least that much room above the fenders. If not, a big hammer might fix that.

[Tomfoolery]

Good question, so I looked at some tires.

14" Load Range C, 1870 lb: OD=26.3"
15" Load Range C, 1820 lb: OD=27.4"
15" Load Range D, 2540 lb: OD=28.1"

All Kenda from etrailer, and all bias-ply. Interestingly, though, they have 15" Load Range D on steel wheels with a 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern. That's potentially a lot of load on that bolt pattern, and the bearings and axle, for that matter.

[Boblee]

Does the have parralel bearings like the trailer? never had a problem with the axle or bearings from the load only when it hit things but always wanted to change to the 6 stud toyota pattern just never got around to it, really miss the single axle when trying to back into our driveway but it's great not having to think about weight with the tandem.

[Tomfoolery]

Does the have parralel bearings like the trailer? never had a problem with the axle or bearings from the load only when it hit things but always wanted to change to the 6 stud toyota pattern just never got around to it, . . .

I'm not clear on your description, but the OEM steel trailers have common tapered roller bearings, larger inboard and smaller outboard, like the front spindles of passenger cars from days gone by (with rear wheel drive). Axles and bearings are the 3500 lb variety, which (IMO) are underspec'd for the boat, configured for actual sailing, with a 50 hp OB, and the gear typically kept onboard. Usually 4000 lb gross or more, on a 3500 lb rated trailer (nameplate even says 3500 lb gross trailer weight).

The PO's added a second axle to mine, and I'm glad they did - it was actually a not-so-minor selling point, as I don't have as heavy a tow vehicle as I'd like, and they claimed to have towed it all over the Great Lakes area with a minivan. Tracks very nicely with my short-ish Toyota Highlander (Kluger in Australia), and even better with the admiral's Honda Odyssey minivan (much longer wheelbase and wider track), though it's not equipped with tranny cooler and such, so I use the Highlander.

[Wind Chime]

Does anyone know what size tires MacGregor installed on the OEM factory trailer in 2000?
We bought our 2000-X in '06, and it had ST-205/75/14, but not sure if these were original.

[Tomfoolery]

Does anyone know what size tires MacGregor installed on the OEM factory trailer in 2000?
We bought our 2000-X in '06, and it had ST-205/75/14, but not sure if these were original.

That's what the 12 year old tires on my 12 year old OEM steel trailer were when I got it. I put 4 of these on it (PO added a second axle), mounted to galvanized steel wheels with 5 on 4-1/2" stud pattern. https://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-Whee ... 3S450.html

The trailer has a gross weight rating of only 3500 lb, and I don't know of any boats actually equipped to be sailed and motored that weigh that little including the trailer, but that's what they had.

[Wind Chime]

Thanks Tomfoolery.

The reason I ask about the OEM spec on a 2000 trailer is that I spoke with the local tire shop and asked them about "potentially" overloading an OEM tire spec verses upgrading the tire spec -not from an actual safety perspective, but possible legal or insurance implications if in an accident.

They suggested that if the trailer has the “original boat on the OEM trailer from the factory that came with ST/205/75/14 (C)”, that we may be better to stay with that tire even though it may be over loaded. They suggested that the authorities may be more interested in if we had changed from the OEM tire spec, rather than if we had overloading the tires.

Not sure about this advice, but I have heard it before about some places will not even install anything that is not OEM spec due to their liability. I think in this case it may apply only if the "boat" was still the same spec as when it left the factory with no mods or additional contents.

We only trailer a few times a year in the city on paved streets and low speed on short highway runs, so I’m trying not to go overboard but still want to be safe. We just had the trailer redone last year so we are not going to upgrade to 15” rims, and not going to go to double axles - so I was thinking best for us is to max out the tire capacity.

We now have a pair of one year old galvanized rims with ST/205/75/14 (C) that are better than what we had before, but based on the above advice (good or bad) maybe we are better to stick with the same OEM spec of; ST/205/75/14 but change to a load range (D) (2040 lbs. cap)
https://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-Whee ... 10235.html

[NiceAft]

What I have are ST225/75R15. These are on a 2005 trailer.

Ray

[mrron_tx]

No matter which tire size You choose.... My advice is get D's or E's is they are available. It's too late to wish You had when a tire blows at highway speeds... especially with a single axle trailer....IMHO.... Ron.