Turnbuckles for Mac 26X

[dlandersson]

I realize that I may be putting make-up on a pig, but I'm about ready to get some turnbuckles for my Mac 26X. Adjusting the shroud tension to the bottom end of suggested load (I have a Loos guage PT-1) is a PIA.

The current plates use 1/4" clevis pins. Any suggestions on turnbuckle sizes? I'm think I can just attach them to the existing rigging plate and tighten as required. I also saw a comment that 5/16" turnbuckles can work nicely.

[RobertB]

I initially would recommend basing your choice on rated load. But on further research, these are sold in relation to your rigging wire diameter.

Why is setting your rigging tension such a PITA? Seems that this is not something I would do very often - one or twice every several years. Then again, I am not being considered for participation in the America's Cup

[dlandersson]

I'm having trouble getting the tension on the shroud plates to the bare minimum while in the slip. I'd like to at least have that. Have you ever tried it?

I initially would recommend basing your choice on rated load. But on further research, these are sold in relation to your rigging wire diameter.

Why is setting your rigging tension such a PITA? Seems that this is not something I would do very often - one or twice every several years. Then again, I am not being considered for participation in the America's Cup

[RobertB]

It is really pretty easy. Various methods discussed in the forum recently. While using the tool supplied with the boat looks pretty easy, I did it a bit different. I just lowered the mast a bit, changed the position of the small clevis pins, put the mast back up and measured again. Really quick and easy and no tension to fight while doing it. I do not perform in the slip but in my driveway. I also assumed that it was set up relatively balanced at the factory and I make sure I adjust each side the same.

[dlandersson]

I agree if I was in your driveway it might be easier - since I'm in a slip on the water - it's a bit harder - you are welcome to pop over and show me how you do it in a slip.

It is really pretty easy. Various methods discussed in the forum recently. While using the tool supplied with the boat looks pretty easy, I did it a bit different. I just lowered the mast a bit, changed the position of the small clevis pins, put the mast back up and measured again. Really quick and easy and no tension to fight while doing it. I do not perform in the slip but in my driveway. I also assumed that it was set up relatively balanced at the factory and I make sure I adjust each side the same.

[THE CUSCUS]

OINK, OINK, OINK.........

5/16 open turnbuckles work just fine.

[dlandersson]

LOL

Yeah, that's very similar to what I'm looking at. Since the top plate is fixed to the loop, thinking of replacing the bottom plate. That way I can "undo" if needed.

OINK, OINK, OINK.........

5/16 open turnbuckles work just fine.

[THE CUSCUS]

Not sure I'm following you with the bottom plate statement? The turnbuckle is held to the chainplate with a pin, that is removable.

[raycarlson]

Why add four turnbuckles though, I just put one on the forestay which automaticly tensions the other four as you snug it down. If one of the four sidestays is loose or not adjusted just loosen the forestay and make your sidestay adj and re-tension the forestay, works very well at minimum cost.

[dlandersson]

And that's a good point - I will look at that today.

Edit - I looked - no turnbuckle. How does that NOT affect the forestay tension if I added one?
\

Why add four turnbuckles though, I just put one on the forestay which automaticly tensions the other four as you snug it down. If one of the four sidestays is loose or not adjusted just loosen the forestay and make your sidestay adj and re-tension the forestay, works very well at minimum cost.

[Catigale]

Turnbuckles are easily kinked when trailering...once kinked they loose strength and fail.

If you stay on the water permanently, no problem. If you trailer a lot, I would stay with the verniers, adding either rays turnbuckle or a Johnson lever for ease of adjustment and mounting forestay pin.

[dlandersson]

I trailer once in the Spring and once in the Fall. Adding a turnbuckle to the RF Genoa may be doable, but it's up already for the season. It appears to me it's easier to simply add the turnbuckles on the side shrouds.

Turnbuckles are easily kinked when trailering...once kinked they loose strength and fail.

If you stay on the water permanently, no problem. If you trailer a lot, I would stay with the verniers, adding either rays turnbuckle or a Johnson lever for ease of adjustment and mounting forestay pin.

[raycarlson]

four quality turnbuckles will run about 150 dollars at least, plus you now have four stays in which your adding extra length over what the factory adjusters were so you must raise your mast attach point or reduce stay length. four separate times. you can accomplish the same objective with one single modification at the fore stay.

[Tomfoolery]

Adding a turnbuckle to the RF Genoa may be doable, but it's up already for the season. It appears to me it's easier to simply add the turnbuckles on the side shrouds.

Your RF forestay doesn't have a turnbuckle now? How do you adjust rake? This is the first place that should have a turnbuckle, IMO.

Also, it appears the chainplates on the boats are further back relative to the mast than the ones on the , due to the lack of backstay I would imagine, so it would be easier to make/break the forestay connection on the by cranking down a bit on the mast raising system (MRS) than it would be on the boats, which might explain why some folks can't do it as easily as I seem to be able to, with only the backstay loosened or disconnected, and still have adequate side stay tension once the MRS is slackened.

I'll have to look for the pattern in poster's comments on the subject, as some seem to have no trouble adjusting that way and still making the forestay pin, while others can't do it.

Oh, and I agree that you have to be very careful with turnbuckles on sidestays with these trailerable boats, as the threaded ends can bend easily and will become weakened when that happens. The original vernier adjusters are pretty tough.

[mastreb]

For people reading this, keep in mind that dlanderson is talking about an X.

With an M you have to be careful about forestay tension and mast rake. The mast rake should be only very slightly raked rearward, and any extra induced rake forward or rearward is going to make mast rotation difficult. For that reason, stay tension should be adjusted on the side-stays and not on the forestay on an M.

Also keep in mind that you should not use a turnbuckle on a forestay with a roller furler, as the furler can turn the turnbuckle and loosen it. I believe there's a current post on a mastfall of a non-MacGregor boat likely due to a furler rotated forestay turnbuckle.

The manual also recommends an alternate stay adjustment technique I've not use:

With all the rigging in place, grip the upper shroud about 4 feet
above the deck and pull inboard toward the center of the boat.
The lower wire will go slack and allow another hole to be taken
up in the adjuster channel. To adjust the upper wires, pull inboard
on the lower wire. This method takes 2 people, and can get the
rigging tighter than is desirable. You can also loosen the forward
turnbuckle, make the necessary adjustment in the side wires, and
then retighten the turnbuckle. The final tightening of the forward
wire provides the final tightening of the entire rig.

MAST APPEARANCE AFTER PROPER TUNING.

All support wires should be tight. Ideally, the mast should have about a
1” bow. In other words, the center of the mast should be about 1”
forward of a straight line drawn from the top of the mast to the
base of the mast. The downwind wires will be somewhat slack
when sailing hard. When sailing into the wind, the mainsail takes
over the task of supporting the mast from the rear.