Evinrude scheduled maintenance.

[dxg4848]

Well, it costs on average $600.00 to do 3-years maintenance – a lot of money! But I found a way how to still have it done and pay a LOT less – do it yourself. I am not a mechanic (not even close) and I believe I did better or as good of a job as many experienced mechanics.
...
4) Replaced spark plugs. Follow this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSngWQoWrF4
Important! Spark plugs must be indexed correctly. Bought 2 spark plugs for about $17.00 each. Was a little nervous as not all spark plugs can be indexed. But even if I had to buy a few more it would still be a lot less money than pay for service. Got lucky – both spark plugs worked! Top one was tightened with max allowed 22 ft/lb torque, and bottom only needed 20.

Looked up Indexing - found the following on the NGK website:
"In any case, engines with indexed spark plugs will typically make only a few more horsepower, typically less than 1% of total engine output. For a 500hp engine, you'd be lucky to get 5hp. While there are exceptions, the bottom line is that without a dyno, gauging success will be difficult."

So, for a 60 hp engine, indexing is expected to yield 6/10 HP. Is this really important? Or is there something really odd about the ETEC that requires this? Face it, the compression stroke should sufficiently mix the fuel air so it is pretty homogeneous in the cylinder.

Good point. It says in owner's manual that plugs must be indexed. Evinrude service video also says that plugs must be indexed. It is easy to do. If you replacing plugs once every 3 years why not to make it right. If plug cannot be indexed then you can make a call to leave it like that or buy new one for $17.00 and try it. Both plugs worked for me. But if they wouldn't I would personally buy more plugs.

[dxg4848]

On self-servicing, it appears you lubed the prop shaft, changed the oil, spark plugs, and fuel filter. What about greasing the tilt mechanism and throttle linkages, changing the sacrificial zinc, and how long does the water pump impeller last? Is there a way for an owner to reset the service counter?

I applied grease through 4 grease fittings. I was trying to follow the recommendations on page 47 of my owner’s manual. It has recommended 3-years maintenance tasks. It doesn’t mention zinc or impeller. I read mixed opinions regarding impellers. I will call Evinrude tomorrow and ask them why impeller is not listed on 3 – years maintenance chart. I personally think if service is performed right then it doesn’t really matter who did it and if service counters are reset.

[RobertB]

When I bought my service manual, I inquired about software to interface the motor. Evinrude people were not too helpful. I have equivalent software/equipment to interface most of my cars. Many cars also have a way to reset without using equipment. Still looking for the best solution for this motor. Like you, I do most this work myself.

[dreamer]

dxg you inspired me to work on the etec. I changed the gearcase oil yesterday. Piece of cake. I had my 3 yr service done 3 yrs ago and was only charged $200 which suprised me because they had quoted me more depending on what needed to be changed. They changed gear oil, greased fittings, pulled plugs cleaned and checked the gap...ok, changed fuel filter, checked thermostat...ok, and checked impeller...ok. Updated software and gave me printout of perameters tested and a neat graph showing the amount of time spent at different rpms. (Total of 121hrs) I was concerned about the impeller not being replaced and mechanic said he has found them very reliable and not to worry. I'm on my 6th season and the engine has been flawless. I think I will probably to do what dxg did but I would still take it in to have them hook it up to a laptop and give me a printout.

[dreamer]

One more thing. I noticed some bubbling from the propeller area at idle when I was up in Geogian bay on the weekend. This has been going on for a while but I forgot about it. Didn't affect performance. After some research on the etec forum I found out that this may be caused by a clogged idle relief filter (or some refer to it as muffler foam). The filter is located under the oil reservoir under a plate. I picked up a new filter and gasket yesterday and replaced it. The old filter was extremely dirty. I'll have to check if the bubbling stops when I have it in the water this weekend.

[dxg4848]

dxg you inspired me to work on the etec. I changed the gearcase oil yesterday. Piece of cake. I had my 3 yr service done 3 yrs ago and was only charged $200 which suprised me because they had quoted me more depending on what needed to be changed. They changed gear oil, greased fittings, pulled plugs cleaned and checked the gap...ok, changed fuel filter, checked thermostat...ok, and checked impeller...ok. Updated software and gave me printout of perameters tested and a neat graph showing the amount of time spent at different rpms. (Total of 121hrs) I was concerned about the impeller not being replaced and mechanic said he has found them very reliable and not to worry. I'm on my 6th season and the engine has been flawless. I think I will probably to do what dxg did but I would still take it in to have them hook it up to a laptop and give me a printout.

If they didn't change spark plugs then your spark plugs are 6 years old now and it is probably a good idea to change them. It is as easy as changing dearcase oil. Just follow this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p68apieFgIA and index them. I wanted to do it right and bought 3/8 drive torque wrench from Auto Zone for $20.00, and 5/8 spark plug socket for $4.0. I also bought Evinrude Triple Guard Grease for spark plugs and prop shaft. I will also use it next year to grease mast rotation washers. You can access top plug by removing top cover. But to access bottom plug you will need to open up starboard cover. You don't need to remove it completely. I just had it opened in front by a few inches and it was held on the back by rubber gasket where cables enter the motor. It is easier to close it back this way and there is plenty of room to remove the plug. To open the cover you will need 1/4 drive 6" extension and deep 5/16 socket (to access one bolt on the back). There are 8 bolts total and one of them is inside upfront under top cover.

You will need to unscrew top firing module to remove bottom spark plug. It is very easy, just watch for two rubber gaskets. Then follow the above video and index two new plugs.

Fuel filter is probably easiest thing to do. It cost only $8.00 and takes 15 minutes to change if you are taking your time. First I got intimidated by hose clamps. I haven't seen anything like that before. I did some research and found out that these are Oetiker clamps. You can by right size clamps from Evinrude. I bought crimp tool from McMaster Carr for $29.00 with straight and side jaws. Straight jaws are used to crimp or to remove clamp. To remove clamp use straight jaws. Position bottom jaw under the clamp's 'lip' and place top jaw on top of the piece sticking out from the last hole. By squeezing the jaws you are forcing 'lip' up and that piece back through the hole. Oetiker clamps are truly great product.

To grease fitting I bought a nice grease gun from Home Depot and a tube of marine grade grease that will last for long time. I also used it to grease my trailer wheels.

[dxg4848]

One more thing. I noticed some bubbling from the propeller area at idle when I was up in Geogian bay on the weekend. This has been going on for a while but I forgot about it. Didn't affect performance. After some research on the etec forum I found out that this may be caused by a clogged idle relief filter (or some refer to it as muffler foam). The filter is located under the oil reservoir under a plate. I picked up a new filter and gasket yesterday and replaced it. The old filter was extremely dirty. I'll have to check if the bubbling stops when I have it in the water this weekend.

Thanks for the tip!

[dreamer]

Thanks for the detailed info dxg, I think I''ll do that in the fall.

[dxg4848]

One more thing. I noticed some bubbling from the propeller area at idle when I was up in Geogian bay on the weekend. This has been going on for a while but I forgot about it. Didn't affect performance. After some research on the etec forum I found out that this may be caused by a clogged idle relief filter (or some refer to it as muffler foam). The filter is located under the oil reservoir under a plate. I picked up a new filter and gasket yesterday and replaced it. The old filter was extremely dirty. I'll have to check if the bubbling stops when I have it in the water this weekend.

Hi dreamer,

I wanted to look at muffler foam today, but couldn’t get to it. I unscrewed oil tank and found muffler foam compartment cover right under the oil tank left of exhaust held in place by 5 screws. I removed screws, but couldn’t lift the cover. It looks like it was pained together with the body and held with paint and possibly gasket. I tried to pry it opened with screwdriver with little force and it didn’t work. I figured if I do pry it opened the gasket will probably be destroyed. I decided to order foam and gasket first.

How did you get yours open? Thanks!

[dreamer]

Yeah order the filter and gasket first. Score the paint with a sharp knife and work the knife carefully under the plate. I did rip one end of the gasket prying the plate open. A little bit of patience will do it.

[dxg4848]

Yeah order the filter and gasket first. Score the paint with a sharp knife and work the knife carefully under the plate. I did rip one end of the gasket prying the plate open. A little bit of patience will do it.

Just ordered foam and gasket. Will do what you said once I have them. Thanks!

[Catigale]

I think X2 was just a "me too" on the 3 gallon tanks.

The impeller is the replaceable part of the water pump, although it is possible to replace the casing if it is scored.

I've run the same impeller on my Mercury BF 50 for 10 years. Light duty use since we use the boat for 3 Cape trips a year plus 4-5 Hudson weekends. Never goes over 3000 rpm. Obviously I'm not big on the change every three year mantra, but I carry a spare and all tools needed for replacement.

[mastreb]

So it was tough to start my E-tec 60 yesterday for the first time ever, after having run it just fine the day before and keeping the power off between sailings. It turned over very slowly, like a bad battery, ....

Hey it's not every day a guy gets to give advice to mastreb!
Had the same thing happen with our E-tec 60 and (not really expecting much help) asked an experienced mechanic at a marina we happened to be docked at. He immediately responded, "check the ground wire on the battery terminals ...". Sure enough it was loose; and the problem has never recurred. I use 'dielectric grease' on both terminals now and check them regularly.
That's it - shot my bolt - Kittiwake's one piece of knowledge.
Kittiwake

This was it! Thanks Kittiwake.

My last electrical install left the ground side of the battery wire to the Perko a bit loose. Tightened it up, cleaned the terminals, and the motor starts right up as its supposed to. Took the opportunity to put the motor back to being powered directly from the battery and not through the Perko, with everything else through the perko. The Etec has no parasitic draw so this lets me leave without going below to turn the boat on.

Matt

[seahouse]

Hey Matt –

I think there's some parasitic draw on the E-tecs, but it certainly is low. When I re-connect the batteries to the motor after a season's storage I get a fat spark, which presumably is charging capacitors, and filling the circuit capacitance, that discharged in the motor over the winter. That spark is no smaller than when I did it to outboards decades older than the E-tecs with electronic ignition. Of course, we are talking a time frame of 6 months or maybe even more of storage, but the spark could be just as large after one month(?)

I think this also happens in part because diodes are imperfect “off” switches, reverse current leakage happens even well below the reverse breakdown voltage.

I have no idea of exactly how much the current might be (micro? milli? amps); it would be lower than the internal discharge current of the batteries themselves, to be sure.

So I'd be interested to see after a while how your motor-battery direct connection works. If you don't go long enough between uses, we'll never find out, though.

[Kittiwake]

..... When I re-connect the batteries to the motor after a season's storage I get a fat spark, .....

Gosh I have never seen such a thing with our 2010 Etec-60. And I leave the battery disconnected over the winter (I take it home for trickle charging). I also often disconnect just the + battery pole when the boat is left on the trailer for a month at a time in the summer. It may be relevant though that Kittiwake has no aftermarket equipment or wiring in its electrical circuits.
Kittiwake