weather is still cold and wet over here. Can't do much on the boat, so I took "Rockhoppers" original rudder off which has had quite a few prop nibbles ever since I bought her. Initially, I only intended to fill those but have decided now to extend the leading edge but also the total length of the rudder. Must be getting bored
Mac 26S Rudder Modification
- FinallySailing
- First Officer
- Posts: 281
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2010 2:37 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26S
- Location: The Sunny South East of England between Suffolk and Essex
Mac 26S Rudder Modification
Hi,
weather is still cold and wet over here. Can't do much on the boat, so I took "Rockhoppers" original rudder off which has had quite a few prop nibbles ever since I bought her. Initially, I only intended to fill those but have decided now to extend the leading edge but also the total length of the rudder. Must be getting bored
! Similar to a few threads that I found online I am intending to extend the leading edge by 2.5 inches and the length by 4. So I've cut the leading edge just off the central hard wood piece and also cut through the bottom of the rudder with the intention of fitting further pieces of wood into there and then to glass/fill over it (great video on youtube that shows the process on a Mac25 rudder). I've noticed, that part of the rudder is hollow (aft). This has allowed water to get inside the rudder where holes for lines had been drilled through.
Is the rudder meant to fill with water to stop it from floating ? It then should also have a drain hole at the bottom. Mine hasn't. I have a rudder downhaul anyway and it should be easier to kick up the rudder if it is not filled with water and keeps buoyancy. I am getting confused
. The not glassed over part of the wood inside was moist but has since dried and is in good shape as far as I can see. Any reason I couldn't fill these voids with PU foam ? Just don't see the point of water ingress into the rudder and possibly causing problems with the wood.
weather is still cold and wet over here. Can't do much on the boat, so I took "Rockhoppers" original rudder off which has had quite a few prop nibbles ever since I bought her. Initially, I only intended to fill those but have decided now to extend the leading edge but also the total length of the rudder. Must be getting bored
Re: Mac 26S Rudder Modification
Yes the rudder is designed to fill with water to keep it from being boyant. I did a similar mod on mine by moving the leading edge fwd however I did not lengthen it. Mine had holes on top and bottom. Maybe at some time someone has repaired yours and for got to put the drain/fill holes back in?
- Steve K
- Captain
- Posts: 703
- Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2004 7:35 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26D
- Location: So. Cal. desert
Re: Mac 26S Rudder Modification
I modified mine, just like you're explaining. I used foam in the void.
The rudder was originally designed to fill with water, as others mention.
You can melt the foam out with Acetone, ($18.00 per gallon where I live) when you're done, if you want. I just left mine as is.
It floats and is just a little difficult to pull down, at first. (2:1 downhaul). Once it's down a little, it gets easier to pull down the rest of the way.
The plus is, the boat handles like it has power steering, but I still get some feedback through the tiller. It is very responsive and easy to track. Tacking is a breeze.
Here's a link to some pics of mine. The mod was done several years ago, btw. If you view the pics full screen, you can see the uphaul/downhaul setup and the strengthening plate along the back of the rudder head. There is a stud sticking up at the bottom of this plate that connects to a linkage to the outboard so rudder and outboard turn together (best mod I ever made). This offers great control at low speeds, crowded marinas and when docking. The linkage just slips off the stud for raising the outboard, when sailing. Also, there is no chance of the rudder coming in contact with the prop, because it turns as the rudder does.
https://www.box.com/s/fd1042cab40bb3e44c61
Best Breezes,
Steve K.
Mac 26D "Three Sheets"
The rudder was originally designed to fill with water, as others mention.
You can melt the foam out with Acetone, ($18.00 per gallon where I live) when you're done, if you want. I just left mine as is.
It floats and is just a little difficult to pull down, at first. (2:1 downhaul). Once it's down a little, it gets easier to pull down the rest of the way.
The plus is, the boat handles like it has power steering, but I still get some feedback through the tiller. It is very responsive and easy to track. Tacking is a breeze.
Here's a link to some pics of mine. The mod was done several years ago, btw. If you view the pics full screen, you can see the uphaul/downhaul setup and the strengthening plate along the back of the rudder head. There is a stud sticking up at the bottom of this plate that connects to a linkage to the outboard so rudder and outboard turn together (best mod I ever made). This offers great control at low speeds, crowded marinas and when docking. The linkage just slips off the stud for raising the outboard, when sailing. Also, there is no chance of the rudder coming in contact with the prop, because it turns as the rudder does.
https://www.box.com/s/fd1042cab40bb3e44c61
Best Breezes,
Steve K.
Mac 26D "Three Sheets"
- Steve K
- Captain
- Posts: 703
- Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2004 7:35 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26D
- Location: So. Cal. desert
Re: Mac 26S Rudder Modification
BTW,
I also drilled out and installed bronze bushings in the pintle holes, because they were badly worn. The bushings are almost a press fit in the holes, but I used a little "JB Weld" to make sure they wouldn't slip out. (refer to pics of the rudder head). Took all the slop out of the steering.
The tiller extension is homemade. (some parts from the Walmart bicycle dept)
Best Breezes,
Steve K.
I also drilled out and installed bronze bushings in the pintle holes, because they were badly worn. The bushings are almost a press fit in the holes, but I used a little "JB Weld" to make sure they wouldn't slip out. (refer to pics of the rudder head). Took all the slop out of the steering.
The tiller extension is homemade. (some parts from the Walmart bicycle dept)
Best Breezes,
Steve K.
- FinallySailing
- First Officer
- Posts: 281
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2010 2:37 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26S
- Location: The Sunny South East of England between Suffolk and Essex
Re: Mac 26S Rudder Modification
Thanks guys, very helpful replies. No holes in my rudder at the bottom or top, Grady, but maybe it's been very well fixed in the past. Brilliant pictures, Steve, I've now got a level of quality that I have to aspire to !!!
- FinallySailing
- First Officer
- Posts: 281
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2010 2:37 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26S
- Location: The Sunny South East of England between Suffolk and Essex
Re: Mac 26S Rudder Modification
Thanks again for all the replies, as always this site has been a major source of help and inspiration. Here is the "new" rudder antifouled and ready to go onto our boat:


- mastreb
- Admiral
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- Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2011 9:00 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
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Re: Mac 26S Rudder Modification
I have to ask--why antifoul your boards? I pull mine up in the slip after use, and haven't been at sea long enough in any one stretch to worry about fouling.
- FinallySailing
- First Officer
- Posts: 281
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2010 2:37 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26S
- Location: The Sunny South East of England between Suffolk and Essex
Re: Mac 26S Rudder Modification
Mastreb, it takes much less space on the pontoon with the rudder down in the water. Less chance for somebody to hit into it. 
- mastreb
- Admiral
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- Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2011 9:00 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
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- Contact:
Re: Mac 26S Rudder Modification
Good point. And let's not forget how odd the stern of a Mac looks with the rudders up in a slip...FinallySailing wrote:Mastreb, it takes much less space on the pontoon with the rudder down in the water. Less chance for somebody to hit into it.
