When was the first year for aluminum trailers?

[C Striker]

I just ran across a post refering to an 06 with a steel trailer. I did not know this! Mine is an 09. When was their first year produced? Thank you

Erik

[Russ]

Mine is a 2008 and I believe this was when Macgregor started making aluminum trailers.

It's only seen fresh water, but still looks brand new. I replace the bunk carpet last year. UV in the summer without a boat on it did it in.

[C Striker]

Thanks Russ.

Mine is an 09 delivered Sept of 08. Salt water exclusively. Always gets dipped then sits 3 days until we come back. Then finally a very good rinse.Over 4 years later, I managed to get all the lugnuts off with no damage, yeah Well...almost. I'd feel better if I had a couple spares.

What else, if anything changed when it went aluminum? Is that 06 M on a steel trailer the same as mine at the wheels?

thanks,
Erik

[raycarlson]

use the blue bearing grease on your wheel studs,you'll never have a problem with corrosion,but you do need to use a torque wrench on your nuts.

[u12fly]

I believe it was 2008.... My boat is an 06. I bought it without a trailer in 09, at which time I had the factory build me up an aluminum trailer so I could pull the boat out of the saltwater slip that it had been sitting in. I think the aluminum trailer is good design AFTER you add the second axel to it. If I had to ever replace mine I would go for an aftermarket aluminum trailer. The only thing I do not like about the Mac trailer is the bunks are short and do not carry the weight at the stern of the boat, all the aftermarket trailers I've seen are longer.

[Hardcrab]

I think that sometime in the 2007 model year is when it was introduced, at least in the California market.
As far as differences, the older steel trailer had standard leaf springs instead of the torsion axel.
The main bunks stayed in the same location with the aluminum trailer getting the addition of small bunks on the axel and rear crossmember.

(By the way, if you notice some cast out at the bottom of the tires, then consider that the axel is seeing to much load on that center bunk and then consider raising either the main bunks or "lowering" the axel itself by shimimg up the trailer to axel mounting interface. Get most of the weight off that axel bunk, IMHO).

The boat can/does sit a little lower to the road because of the torsion axel.
The front vee block is in the same position but with a slightly different ladder mounting and no "arms" to guide the bow to the vee block.
Fiberglass fenders replaced steel.
Wheels and tires are the same.
Surge brake is the same with painted steel used in part of the assembly.
Rotors and brake calipers are different; some kind of corrosion resistant stuff is now used.

The weakest part of the trailer, the Schedule 40 steel 3" box tubing drawbar ,is unfortunately still the same.
Beware of this weak link, especially if you are in salt water or love to crank away on the winch (which puts tremendous pressure bending it upwards).
The inside of the tube is fully untreated steel and it will rot, bend, and break sooner or later, unless you do something about it.

[u12fly]

...
The weakest part of the trailer, the Schedule 40 steel 3" box tubing drawbar ,is unfortunately still the same.
Beware of this weak link, especially if you are in salt water or love to crank away on the winch (which puts tremendous pressure bending it upwards).
The inside of the tube is fully untreated steel and it will rot and bend, sooner or later, unless you do something about it.

Thanks for the tip, you just highlighted a good inpection area for me to check on during my annual inspection.

[mastreb]

I sprayed the untreated steel drawbar with automotive rust converter/sealer from JC Whitney:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/eastwood-rust- ... d=c21250j1

Seems to have stopped the rusting inside the drawbar, but I didn't think about the jack stand, and it's rusting out. My trailer is a 2010.

[Tomfoolery]

I sprayed the untreated steel drawbar with automotive rust converter/sealer from JC Whitney:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/eastwood-rust- ... d=c21250j1

Seems to have stopped the rusting inside the drawbar, but I didn't think about the jack stand, and it's rusting out. My trailer is a 2010.

Presumably the steel pole tongue can be replaced, as the rest of the trailer is aluminium. But is it as easy as cutting and drilling a new piece of tube, or are there things welded to it?

My trailer is the original steel from back in the day, so not as easy as bolted connections, of course. But a procedure for those with aluminium trailers could be useful for those who have them. It's just A500 or A501 HSS, I would think, which is bog-standard stuff, so sourcing a replacement tube should be easy.

[Hardcrab]

The ladder/vee block /winch assy and the surge brake piece is welded to it.

It is also just waiting to be resized to 3X4, as there is the vertical room in the aluminum I-beams for the added height.
Whatever has the thickest wall thickness you could find and adding the best rust protectant to the interior would be just the ticket.
Even adding a few extra inches to it's length would help alot, IMHO.

After my 05 steel trailer's drawbar rusted through and broke in half while retreiving awhile ago, I am concerned about my new aluminum trailers drawbar. I've noticed how easy it deflects upward when you just use the winch, or the slightest bend it gets when the jack wheel supports the boat while it's parked.
I've gotten to where I use a jack stand under the alum I-beams to take the load and to release all winch tension while it's parked.
Anything to give that POS drawbar an easier life until I replace it with a better choice of material.
So far, the POR 15 I used to coat the insides is working as advertised.

You guys with new trailers, salt water, and a tool box should perhaps consider taking the drawbar off to really coat the insides before to much time passes.
It's not a hard job to do, and you'll get to see how the surge brake guts are installed as a bonus.

For guys with the old steel trailers, get a jar of Vaseline, bend over, and just wait.
Sooner or later.

[Tomfoolery]

The ladder/vee block /winch assy and the surge brake piece is welded to it.

It is also just waiting to be resized to 3X4, as there is the vertical room in the aluminum I-beams for the added height.
Whatever has the thickest wall thickness you could find and adding the best rust protectant to the interior would be just the ticket.
Even adding a few extra inches to it's length would help alot, IMHO.

Thickest wall commonly available is 5/16". But bumping from 3x3 to 4x3, both at 5/16" wall, increases bending strength a hair over 50%, and more than doubles the stiffness. It would be a good mod to make, especially if the existing tube is questionable.

And FWIW, when I replaced the brakes on my steel trailer, I ground the welds off the coupler and drilled and bolted the new one on. It came with bolt holes, as did the original (which they welded sort of like plug welds, along with fillet welding the bottom edges), so it was just a matter of drilling the pole tongue for bolts. If I need to remove the surge coupler for any reason, like replacing the master cylinder, I can take the whole thing off and bring it to my basement shop for service. I thought I'd also recently read that MacGregor had switched to bolting the coupler on, which only makes sense. If they're drilling the tube for bolting to the aluminium, all they need are a couple more holes for the coupler.

I've designed, and when the weather gets warmer I'll build, a twin spare tire carrier, but it will be bolted on (clamped, actually). The less that's welded to the tube, the better.

[C Striker]

Thanks for the input guys. I am aware of the front steel bar issue. Hope it lasts until it gets fixed. Have to get the wheels done first. There is a thread called "Rust - Mac Trailer 2008" with good pics and info. I used Ospho on my wheels and it really turns rust back to steel! I just wish that drawbar was as thick as my wheels. Yet is still sits rusting away...

I did my research last weekend, specifically for part numbers for lugbolts and nuts. It seems they are rare and pricey. This was on an 06, steel trailer. Lugs should be 1/2 -20 X 2 -1/32 Wh. Couple questions...

Is the same size as the aluminum trailer, never changing? And Wth does the 1/32 Wh mean?
First trailer here... Are dem dere lugs just case hardened bolts or what

thanks,
Erik

[raycarlson]

Dont know about steel trailer, but 08 aluminum studs are just every day half inch studs you can get at virtually any auto parts store, they press right in through back side of brake rotor.

[Tomfoolery]

Is the same size as the aluminum trailer, never changing? And Wth does the 1/32 Wh mean?
First trailer here... Are dem dere lugs just case hardened bolts or what

They wouldn't be case hardened. They're probably Grade 8, which by both chemistry and heat treatment are through-hardened to a minimum tensile strength of 150 ksi in those small sizes.

I'm guessing the 2-1/32" is the length, but I think you'll find that 2" length is common. If there is some stud beyond the nut, then I wouldn't sweat the 1/32".

Are you sure about the Wh? I would expect to see rh, for right-hand thread. At one time, it was common to find left- and right-handed wheel studs or bolts on vehicles. Not so much these days, or at least I haven't seen them around.

[C Striker]

Ray, Thanks buddy thats what I was hoping to hear. Best to replace everything if you can get it at Auto Zone.

I am not sweating 1/32 on a bolt for sure. I thought the Wh may have meant another dimension, like maybe unthreaded portion. Or yet another little tidbit I had never heard of. I wrote the complete dimensions posted above in my notebook last weekend from this site, so someone may very chime in on the Wh part.

Head to the zone... check! May get to that front steel bar this year yet