Location for Springline

[RobertB]

I often dock where I use a springline on the side opposite the pier. Running this from the bow to behind the boat makes for a very long line (and pricey too for double braid). This requiers a line longer than 30 feet.

What are the opinions about installing cleats 8 to 10 feet back from the bow? Or using the stantions to tie off to?

Are people comfortable using 1/2 inch dia or more comfrtable using 5/8?

[Catigale]

Stanchions, no. Using them as cleats will work them out of the deck

Many of use the winches on the cabin top as attach points for spring lines.

1/2 is too big for this boat..3/8 dock line is fine, unless your locale has extraordinary forces.

[RobertB]

The marinas I have used in Maryland often have a 1/2 inch minimum size for docklines.

Do you think the winches are far enough forward to hold the bow away from the pier?

[Tomfoolery]

The marinas I have used in Maryland often have a 1/2 inch minimum size for docklines.

You want stretch in a spring line, and all your dock lines for that matter. I'd use three-strand for the price and the stretch, and if you need a really long one, just buy bulk and splice your own eye on one end.

As to location, I don't have an and therefore can't make a recommendation other than to use a winch. But the longer, the better (better cushioning), so if chafe isn't a problem, I'd run it full length.

[RobertB]

The springline at the bow on the side opposite the pier is to keep the bow away from the pier. I really do not think the winch will offer enough of a lever to control the bow. I was wondering if anyone has added cleats about 8 feet back from the bow for such a purpose. Even with backing washers, not sure the glass would hold a cleat.

[Whipsyjac]

Interesting quandry...I'm a little confused though.

I learned that there is a bow line, a stern line, a breast line(center of the boat directly to the dock), a forward spring line (stern forward to dock), and an aft spring line( bow aft to dock.

The stern line shouldn't be taut but should be tight enough the bow can't swing in and touch the dock.

The spring lines are to prevent movement forward and aft within your mooring.

Are you meaning lines run round the boat to control boat movement while leaving the slip?

Willy

PS(edit) I'm thinking dock...you said pier...are you tied to pilings or something that doesn't rise and fall with the tide? Then every thing makes more sense to me. When I bought my new dock lines the chart on the packaging but me on the fence between 3/8 and 1/2 inch. 5/8 of course would be nice on the hands but might require a size up for cleats, but if you tie of neat and don't make dozens of figure 8's its probably doable with factory cleats.

[Tomfoolery]

Interesting quandry...I'm a little confused though.
<snip>
The spring lines are to prevent movement forward and aft within your mooring.

I'm confused, too. Spring lines are usually long, and in tidal waters, the longer the better so the boat can remain in essentially the same place forward and aft, while the bow and stern lines keep it from 'rotating'. In the lake, I keep the spring lines snug (no tides, though), and let the boat wander around a little, tied at all four corners, with 3-strand for everything.

OP: Can you sketch something? Inquiring minds want to know.

[Chinook]

I have a pair of cleats which slide onto the jib track on my X cabin roof. Since I have a genoa, and sheet to the genoa tracks along the cockpit edges, the cabin top tracks are available for installing cleats. Those cleats are quite handy for attaching spring lines.

[RobertB]

Let me try to work my way out of the confusion - by illustrating how I was tied up at a marina last year:
Consider the boat in a slip with a dock/pier/wooden floaty thing on the starboard/right hand side and the stern towards another pier (bow out). Two lines crossed at the stern to the pier behind, two lines on the starboard side, and a single long springline from the bow back along the port side to a cleat on the pier behind and to the left of the boat. This line along with the lines behind the stern keep the boat from rubbing agains the pier on the starboard side. Best to have the fenders but not use them. They can be noisy, they rub off the graphics, and in some instances they are out of place when the tide rises and falls.
Yes, some marinas have a piling to tie to in order to locate the bow away from the pier/dock/floaty thing but not all and getting a line on this sometimes looks like a circus act with my crew.

[RobertB]

I have a pair of cleats which slide onto the jib track on my X cabin roof. Since I have a genoa, and sheet to the genoa tracks along the cockpit edges, the cabin top tracks are available for installing cleats. Those cleats are quite handy for attaching spring lines.

I have heard people mention these before - what is you take on the capacity of this method (I am trying not to intentionally rip off any parts of my boat)? The location seems about right for a 25 or 30 foot dockline.

[opie]

I don't have access to my photo files right now, so I will post a pic in a few days if there is interest. There are favorite ways to use spring lines to the static boat at the dock. Those are described above.
My contribution to this topic is to mention the neat way of docking single-handed in a blow or stiff tide by using a mid-boat spring line. The factory mounted cleats at the bow are too far forward. No nice way to add a cleat near the rub rail below the stanchions that hold the mast shrouds. So what I did was to add a port and starboard cleat about 12 inches aft of the anchor locker lid near the rub rail. (Again, I will send pics when I can.) I added SS washers and nuts to the bolts by taking out all the bow styrofoam and reaching back under the deck from underneath, then returning the styrofoam, of course. (Messy) Then I lead a 3/8" line from this new cleat, behind the stanchions to a large loop in the line right at the point of the boat that is near the wheel. I go to the dock and loop this spring line and turn the wheel away from the dock and keep slow rpms on the motor while I get out and secure other lines.

[Terry]

I have a pair of cleats which slide onto the jib track on my X cabin roof. Since I have a genoa, and sheet to the genoa tracks along the cockpit edges, the cabin top tracks are available for installing cleats. Those cleats are quite handy for attaching spring lines.

I have heard people mention these before - what is you take on the capacity of this method (I am trying not to intentionally rip off any parts of my boat)? The location seems about right for a 25 or 30 foot dockline.

I have a pair of SS ones and I use them all the time, never had a problem with them. They are a bit pricey being SS but they sure come in handy for raft ups, breast lines or just an extra aft cleat on the genoa track. The tracks are strong enoug to hold a big genoa sail in place while the boat clips along at 6 knots, so if they can take that much force they must be very secure, I have full trust in them for holding a cleat in place. However I have taken a fair bit of flack on this board from some who do not share my opinion/experience. They are a great option given the limited number of cleats on our boats.

[taime1]

Terry, where did you get these? What is the criticism for using them?

[Russ]

I have a pair of cleats which slide onto the jib track on my X cabin roof. Since I have a genoa, and sheet to the genoa tracks along the cockpit edges, the cabin top tracks are available for installing cleats. Those cleats are quite handy for attaching spring lines.

This makes sense. The track should be well secured and make a good attachment point.

My only concern is tripping over those cleats.

[mastreb]

I have a pair of cleats which slide onto the jib track on my X cabin roof. Since I have a genoa, and sheet to the genoa tracks along the cockpit edges, the cabin top tracks are available for installing cleats. Those cleats are quite handy for attaching spring lines.

I have these too. They work just fine for a spring line. Super simple: Just slide them on and screw them down. The track is a hard point, and since I use a genoa, I don't need these tracks for a jib. I've also got some track-mounted hardware for aft-led lines on these tracks.