Ormonddude wrote:Understand for the engine to hit the Higher Peak horsepower EVERY stroke has to be tuned to the blocks Max Capability.
Of course, that's only when you have the throttle wide open, which on these boats would be less than 10% of the engine's operating hours.
Because I lack any real data on the repair rates of various HP configurations, I've always felt the max HP models were the best value. More HP for the money spent (which is generally, but not always, what the $/HP shows).
I also agree with Catigale's statement on resale: It's clear to me from the sale prices I was seeing when I searched for a used boat (before deciding that resale value of M's was so high there was no point in buying used) the various engine configurations were not reflected in the used price at all. You're buying a hull when you buy used and getting a motor for free. People were selling with an 8hp outboard on the back for the same price as a 60hp, and I only reduced the value in my mind by about $2K for that difference.
Also, these boats are not like cars: People don't have to have one (so they're a pure luxury) and you aren't going to sell it in three years or less when the motor will actually retain value. By the time you decide to sell your MacGregor, that motor will be eight years old at a minimum with many hundreds of hour on it, and by then it will have fallen over its depreciation curve. The hull only depreciates (1) when you haul it off the lot (2) when you put a giant hole in it (3) when MacGregor releases a new model. Beyond that, the value is exceptionally stable. But the motors depreciate by the year and by the running hour.
Finally, in my opinion, there's no reason to buy anything between 10hp and 60hp for an M, and 10hp and 50hp for an X. The M's less flat hull needs a little more power to get up on a plane, and anything more than 10hp is wasted throttle and fuel for a small outboard, since you'll only get them up to 8 knots max with anything in that size range. The difference between an easy and very controlled 6.5 knots with the boards down and unstable plowing at 8 with them up isn't worth a dime IMHO.
The decision is pretty simple: If you want to power, get a 60, 70, or 90 depending on your pocketbook and preference. If you don't care about that, get a 9.9. I see no significant reason to consider anything else.
Finally, I thought I had no interest in powering and only bought the 60 because that's what the dealership I bought from offered pre-installed, and since I got a loan for the boat, the bank required a pre-installed motor. Then I discovered that sailing out to sea for three hours and returning in 15 minutes is pretty damned fun
its Max Weight is 338lbs my 40hp Yamaha weighed 275lbs so I am not very concerned on weight. My thoughts on engines is this - I never like to buy a Max HP configuration in other words if Mercury makes a block and it used for a 100 - 125 - 150 hp Model I never want the 150 hp the Engine is tuned to Max tolerances and (this is just my opinion) More prone to break. It is constantly putting out the max hp per stroke on the block and crank ect. are rated at. So I very much Like the fact that This engine is a 70hp and not a 90 hp using the same engine components. Understand for the engine to hit the Higher Peak horsepower EVERY stroke has to be tuned to the blocks Max Capability.
