The Good the Bad and the Ugly

[JohnCFI]

Did you use the same cables for the Control unit or did you need longer ones. If so what length did you need?? thanks..

[Calin]

Got overheat alarm on my Yamaha after changing oil. Used synthetic Mobil 5w20 (purchased at Costco). Flushed the engine and used Yamaha oil 10W20 and no problem since. Apparently the oil I used was too thin for the ol pump to buildup presure. I have noticed the alarm mostly at idle, but again, after the first time I heard it, never went to high revs.

El cheapo here looking to make a serious engine upgrade - I looked on BWY and it seems the only 70hp Engines they will install is Tohatsu/Nissan or Suzuki well I have been combing the Internet for a Eternity to replace my 96 Yamaha 40hp its a good engine just has over heat alarm over 10knots with full ballast. So I plugged in 70hp Tohatsu on Ebay and what pops up? A 05 with 25 hours on it ending in a day and under $1000.00 Gentlemen I Present to you - The Good the Bad and the Ugly! YES there is a catch!
The Good-
The Bad-
AND THE UGLY-
Yes if I want the engine I have to take the Boat too its around a 65 Lonestar cuddy cabin all aluminum I am thinking its going to the scrap yard after I strip it down. The sad thing is it is somewhat collectable but I dont have a place for it and it has to GO! The Hammer dropped on the Tohatsu and Ugly at $1625.00 So I feel I basically Stole it I have Insurance from the seller and Ebay that this is a Like New Engine with 25 hours on it and in perfect running order - If i find anything wrong with it I can cancel the contract. Has anyone done a 70hp upgrade and do you have any pictures I plan on Aluminum Sandwich Plates (I may cut them out of poor ugly) on the transom and other than that just take it a little easy on the throttle the engines weight is around #330 pounds - Any Thoughts Comments or suggestions are welcome.

[Tomfoolery]

Take a look at the mod I did to mount the control for my BF50 at the helm with the handle on the correct side, like what you show in the pic above. Puts the trim button under your thumb, and the lock lever on the outside where it belongs for a right-handed person. I can also actually see the indicator lights now. If you're going to do all that work, might as well make the control more user friendly.

That is Exactly how I envisioned doing it! and I do believe I will be using your Mod. So basically you had a U-plate fabricated and drilled a cable hole at the front? Thank you

Yes, it's just Starboard (from WM), but similar products are available at plastic shops, probably for less money. It's notched out around the control handle hub in a 'U' shape. I moved the handle around to the other side, and made a round cover so the original hole isn't exposed to the weather. The control is made to work either way.

I used some Starboard spacers to hold it away from the helm even further (1/2" plus 1/4" made from 1/2") so the hub cleared nicely.

I've also recently added the helm guard from BWY, which puts the main sheet lower block high enough that the sheets have never fouled with the control handle. Before I did that, I just put the control in reverse to get it out of the way, but really, it never caught even then, with the handle upright.

A small hole in the helm pedestal for the control cables, and new cables a couple of feet longer than the originals, and it's sooooo smooth and easy to use now, I can't believe the PO put up with it the old way for the whole time they had it.

Something more elegant from black anodized aluminium plate would be even better, but I don't have that capability, while I do have woodworking capability, so that's how I went. And Starboard is easy to work. I even made a couple of mast rollers out of the scraps.

If I had to do it again, I'd have brought the back (aft) edge of the adapter plate even with the aft edge of the smoked plexi side cover, just for appearance sake. I'd also have used a couple of recessed screws to hold the extra spacers to the main plate, then sanded the sandwich edges smooth and uniform, rather than trying to match them up as individual pieces. The extra spacers (where the three original control through bolts are) have to be somewhat small to not interfere with the range of motion of the handle, which almost goes from bolt to bolt as it swings from full reverse to full forward.

Oh, and although I never figured out why the fast idle handle was popping up when shifting the main handle (causing lots of excitement while docking since it would prevent moving the main handle to 'forward'), the finished installation works perfectly. No more interlock problems. It might be the new cables (cheap), or that fact that I adjusted them per the BF50 installation manual, which has a detailed procedure for that. Or some combo of all of it. But it works smooth as butter now, I can see the lights, and I don't have to reach under and feel around to get the key in any more.

While it looks like it sticks out a long way in front of the helm, oddly enough it's not something I've ever bumped into since I've done it. Whether it's because the main sheet is there, so I walk wide while it's up and working, or because I'm heading forward when moving in that direction anyway, I couldn't say. But I've never bumped into it with my hip.

A highly recommended mod.

[Tomfoolery]

Did you use the same cables for the Control unit or did you need longer ones. If so what length did you need?? thanks..

I don't remember the length now, and it's not in the mod posting, but I do remember that I got new cables two feet longer than the originals, which didn't have much slack left. 17 feet maybe? A little under $20 each at WM, if memory serves. Honda uses the 'universal' ends, and Teleflex now only makes the more robust TFXTREME version I believe, with very small minimum bend radius. I was worried about how the engine bends the cables when tilted out of the water, but the radius seems to be within the stated minimum bend radius, so I've just sort of stopped worrying about it. Nothing I can do about it anyway.

http://www.teleflexmarine.com/products/ ... me-cables/

[Ormonddude]

I am Hoping to use the Cables I have now 15' and oops I bought to long for the Yamaha but they should be perfect for the Tohatsu. If i have to buy new cables or ugly's wont work I am ok with that but I am really excited over this Engine!

[Boblee]

Interesting took my boat into have the motor checked out as it hasn't been run for a while and as Mariner aren't sold here now the dealer has changed over to Tohatsu, he is going to put a 40hp tldi on a fishing boat shortly so told him I will be interested in the comparisons between it and the etec as there is more chance of finding a Tohatsu dealer where we go.
Only interested in the noise level and economy but he should be able to get a fair idea overall, pity they don't make a 60 in tldi though.
Easy to miscalculate engine hours I was sure my etec had done less than 100 hr's but it's done 185, nearly fell off the chair.
Don't think I have ever heard anyone knock the Tohatsu yet.

[raycarlson]

No 60, but they do make a 70hp TLDI that is priced lower than the 60hp bombardier-evinvrude.

[Seapup]

Has anyone done a 70hp upgrade and do you have any pictures I plan on Aluminum Sandwich Plates (I may cut them out of poor ugly) on the transom

One other thing to consider while you have the motor off doing the swap. Since you are planning on using plates anyway you can always use a jack plate instead of outer plates. Spreads the load out, gives you adjustable camber like a transom wedge, you can tweak the height and it gives you a lot more room at the stern. Especially if you decide to add a deck covering the rudder brackets/control lines.

[Ormonddude]

I have used them on fishing boats to get into skinny water but I thought it would complicate the steering on the Mac other than the Plates what all is needed? Because squeezing past the engine when your a big guy like me is really something to consider did you need to extend out the steering cable connection? and when the Engine trims up does it clear the Transom? Hydro Power Plates are way out of my budget.

[Ormonddude]

UPDATE: Ugly is Home Safe and Sound awaiting the wheel of destiny it towed wonderful and the Engine PASSED all tests with flying colors and runs flawlessly When I used the Hour Test the Tach shot straight to 3000 meaning 25-35 hours the next post will be on salvage and Engine Exchange in a New Subject Thanks to everyone Especially Crab for all the advise and well wishes Merry Christmas
*<];o)

[Catigale]

Well done

[mastreb]

What are you planning to do with that trailer? Is it going up for sale?

[Ormonddude]

Well the Trailer will go with ugly if someone rescues it or I am not sure if I end up scrapping ugly. On a interesting Note the seller told me I had outbid a Man in Texas that ONLY wanted the boat and wanted to put a classic engine on it and restore it. So he said he would contact the man and send my Information but I cant be sure if that will happen.

[kmclemore]

Reminds me of a purchase my mom once made. At an auction in Philadelphia in around 1954 she bought a large, beautifully carved wooden chest which sat on two huge carved lions. As she was paying for it a guy came up to her and asked her if she'd consider selling the lions. Well, it was the carved chest she wanted and frankly didn't give a dang about the lions, so she sold them to the guy... and he paid her nearly what she paid for the chest, so she came away with this beautiful item for about $50. (I still have the chest, and it's probably worth one heck of a lot more than that now!)

[DaveB]

Wonder what the Lions are worth now?
That boat in SW florida probable demands XXX $$$ for Red Necks.
Dave

Reminds me of a purchase my mom once made. At an auction in Philadelphia in around 1954 she bought a large, beautifully carved wooden chest which sat on two huge carved lions. As she was paying for it a guy came up to her and asked her if she'd consider selling the lions. Well, it was the carved chest she wanted and frankly didn't give a dang about the lions, so she sold them to the guy... and he paid her nearly what she paid for the chest, so she came away with this beautiful item for about $50. (I still have the chest, and it's probably worth one heck of a lot more than that now!)