Running and accessing wiring

acmaui · Post by **acmaui** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:18 pm

Okay, first off I am totally impressed by those that do upgrades and add on's that require running wire or cables through the boat because, frankly, I can't figure out how they run these wiring additions through the various tight, sharp fiberglass impeded, no access, frustrating channels that we have to use to do anything. I nearly gave up installing a VHF antenna out of frustration trying to figure out how to either run power or run antenna. I want to do quite a few upgrades, but after this experience I'm kind of daunted trying to figure out how to run wires through the boat. So my question is how is it done. Are there screws I'm not seeing that let you lower or separate the different fiberglass panels? It looks to me like you needed to get any wiring in during manufacture and not after. Every time I think I find a solution I find a very narrow channel that if not stuffed with foam, it's too tight to get a fish line through to where I want to go. If you can provide some guidance, or more important, photos, on how to access clear routes to run wiring it would be greatly appreciated. I may need to replace my transducer and it looks to me like all the wires are run in corrugated plastic pipe that branches off and runs between two of the fiberglass sections of the boat, but damn if I can see where it connects to the wiring harness for the GPS.

Ormonddude · Post by **Ormonddude** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 10:24 pm

Well I used a electronics fishing wire like this one - http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Fish-Tape-W ... 35bf87e19c except i cut the hook off the end then I used a heavy Duty outside extension cord 12 gauge then I can run several things off of it. This will make your life SO much easier than trying to Run like 6 or 10 little frail wires also I tape the extension cord (of course the plug is cut off ) to the fishing wire neatly so its less likely to get hung up and I pull it through. This is how I got enough Power to my tiny Helm to handle all my accessories. Now to rewire your Panel I found the Original wire by the battery and then at the Panel and did the same thing except just tape the your new cord to the old and pull it though from behind the panel its perfectly fine to Lube up the new wire with WD-40 to help it slide and it helps to have someone feed it as well. I am not going to pretend the helm was easy IT IS A BEAR on my 96X the steering and engine control cables all go through about a 2" hole and then another at the back it was a struggle to say the least but it is obviously doable with careful thought and consideration.

Catigale · Post by **Catigale** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 2:29 am

....another trick is to use messengers lines...start with strong fishing line, pull string, then pull wire.

When it breaks, check for young ears, swear, and start again...

chipveres · Post by **chipveres** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 4:37 am

Harbor Freight has a "fiberglass wire running kit" that may be of some use. Their model number is 65326. This is a series of thin fiberglass rods that are good for pushing through confined spaces. Like a rifle cleaning rod only much longer. Once you get the rod in, you can use it to pull the wire or pull a heavy nylon string.

My boat is an older Mac 22, and the "wiring" is lamp cord thrown in the bilge. It's not very good, but it sure is easy to replace.

Chip
S/V Macaroon
Dania, FL

dive4it · Post by **dive4it** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:25 am

I've got a X model but I'm sure your M is similar in that it's a sum-biatch to pull or push wires through the confined channels. I made up a few new cuss words during my re-wire for sure. What I ended up doing (since my original panel is up front over the forward berth) was to remove a number of the white plugs in the overhead liner that give you access to the bolts and nuts for deck fittings. Now, I'm an electrician and am no stranger to pulling runs of wires, but this was super frustrating like you mentioned. Figure about 20 minutes for every foot of wire pulled. I had to run wires from one hole to the next, pulling them down through the hole every foot or so. Pull enough down to make the entire run, then push it back up through and towards your next hole in the line, keeping a large loop of wire until you get to the next spot to pull it down. You will find some serious choke points. I'm certain that the manufacturer ran the wires before the hull was sandwiched together (too bad they didn't run extra wire of better quality). If running LED lighting, you can go with a smaller gauge wire, even multiple wires in a single sheath, not Cat5, but stranded wire in 16 gauge or so for most stuff. I ran two sets of 4 wire 16 guage runs from front to stem to stern with access points in various areas behind the liner. That way, it's all set for future goodies that I haven't even thought up yet. You'll have to get creative and just accept the fact that it takes time, head scratching, and itchy arms and hands from all the fiberglass. I had to cut a couple of holes the same size as the factory plugs to gain access to certain areas, use a forstner bit so you don't go through the outer hole like with a hole saw containing a pilot bit. There is one spot that I absolutly couldn't get wire through so I used a short piece of surface mount conduit from the hardware store, planstic stuff in the shape of a fat D looking at it's end profile. It has double side stick tape on the flat section and can house the wire....don't use the metal painted stuff since it's bound to rust eventually. It can be cut with a utility knife or hacksaw and is the same color as the liner. I did use a fish tape on some spots, but found that pushing the wire one foot at a time worked better. Hope this helps.

JT

JohnCFI · Post by **JohnCFI** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:48 am

I did much the same as above, its a real dog of a job, but worth it in the end. I found that expletives helped, so did an old steel VHF antenna and some bent coathangers, and lots of first-aid plasters, and then lots more expletives.

Catigale · Post by **Catigale** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:35 am

Ill bet no one can beat the words I used when I nicely wired my VHF cable with a single piece, no breaks all the way to the mast...then promptly cut through it the next day with a hole saw putting in my NICRO vent....

dive4it · Post by **dive4it** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:21 am

Nice one Catigale!!

RobertB · Post by **RobertB** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:26 am

Catigale wrote:Ill bet no one can beat the words I used when I nicely wired my VHF cable with a single piece, no breaks all the way to the mast...then promptly cut through it the next day with a hole saw putting in my NICRO vent....

Bet you really sounded like a sailer then

JohnCFI · Post by **JohnCFI** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 12:49 pm

All this is really putting me off wanting to run a cable from helm to masthead for the Garmin GWS 10 Santa has on order for me!!

dive4it · Post by **dive4it** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 1:03 pm

Man up JohnCFI, if you can teach booger eaters to fly aircraft, you can run a cable

I assume that the CFI in your name stands for what I think it does.

JT

JohnCFI · Post by **JohnCFI** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 1:30 pm

Fraid not....... The C is my surname (Clifford) and the FI is where I come from (Falkland Islands).

Mind you I do teach Sea Cadets Power Boating, and silly things like seamanship (never sailing though) Radio Comms/IS and First Aid.

Many of them might qualify as boogers!!!!

Don't worry though the falter in my determination is simply because Santa is taking so long......

dive4it · Post by **dive4it** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 2:14 pm

Oh, ok....I thought it was Certified Flight Instructor.

I respectfully remove my last remark.

JT

Highlander · Post by **Highlander** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 4:56 pm

PS Theirs more

Highlander · Post by **Highlander** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 5:24 pm

MacGregorSailors.com

MacGregorSailors.com

Running and accessing wiring

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