sailing the m25

[Ryan]

so when I'm sailing my m25 I have found it difficult to release the main sheet when there is a gust of wind . it is reallhy sketchy an I have almost tipped over several times. it seems that the angle of the cam cleat is easy on one tack direction but the othert is almost impossible to release when it is most needed. what is going on ? I have resorted to having some one else work the the mainsheet while I stear. I dont think it should be that way. it is unsafe and I know there is a better way . can any one advise me on this? also I want to know if the jib line goes on the outside or the inside ofd the lifeline. and does it go through the little circular guides on the deck and down to the winch or not? anyone outthere? Ryan.

[THE CUSCUS]

Ryan, for the reason you listed and others, I went to a dual mainsheet setup that comes off the the top of the cabin. I can easily steer and work the mainsheet from the windward side, and can always have the sheet in my hand.
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/modt/in ... ?view=1402

[seacatcapt]

Ryan- make sure your main sheet cam and block assembly (where it attaches to the traveler) rotates easily. There is a pin in the assembly that should allow the cam cleat to rotate to be in-line with your pull on the sheet. A drop of oil on the pin might help. For the standard jib, the jib sheets go inside the shrouds and stanchions. Hope this helps!

[Freedom77]

I went with mid-boom mainsheet and traveler setup. Standard stern placed sheet setup is a PITA. Don't find it is in the way, easier to reach, easier to adjust sail shape and it keeps the boom down.

[mastreb]

Ryan I've got a 26M and don't really know the mainsheet setup on your boat, but to make snapping the main out of the cam-cleat easier I've got a 1' length of rope at the bottom between the traveler and the mainsheet cam-cleat. It's just a length of 3/8s line with a bowline knot on each end, one attached to the traveler and the other to the cam-cleat. This puts the cleat high enough that I can get a good downward motion on it and easily snap it out. It also shortens the mainsheet by about 5' and guarantees I can't pull the boom down low enough to hit the Garmin on my pedestal.

[heinzir]

Macgregor/Venture 25s did not come with a traveller. They normally have a triangular "Crosby" rig which can be a PITA if not rigged right. Here are three mods that will greatly ease its operation. First, replace the cam cleat with a Harken 150. This cam has three rows of ball bearings making release very easy. Second, replace the single block attached to the swivel base with a single becket block. A becket is a loop for attaching the end of a line. The dead end of the mainsheet is attached to the becket of this block instead of to the eyestrap. This forces the block to stay in line with the rest of the sheet when you tack. Third, and most expensive, is to replace the swivel base with a Harken 144 base. It comes with the 150 cam cleat. You can adjust the angle of the cam with wedges for easiest operation or can mount it upside down if you prefer.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=171966

Making any one of these mods will improve the operation of the factory main sheet cleating system. Making all three will guarantee smooth operation from any angle or position.

On a related note, I recently modified my boat to a dual main sheet system. I have a Harken 144 on each corner of the transom with a standard 4:1 tackle using fiddle blocks going to the end of the boom. This gives me two completely independent main sheets; I use the windward one to control the in/out position of the boom (angle of attack) and the boom vang to control it's up/down (sail twist) location. Using the two main sheets together lets me lock the boom in any position I wish. This gives me all of the benefits of a traveller (and then some) without having to put a track across the cockpit and restricting access to the cockpit. Yes, it is another line in the cockpit, but a properly set up traveller would add two control lines anyway.

Henry

[snotnosetommy]

Henry,
Two mainsheets-- that's very interesting. I'll think that over.
Are you still sailing Chiquita?

[heinzir]

Still sailing Chiquita on the lake by our house. I haven't trailered her anywhere for a long time but hope to change that next year. I'm working on getting a decent tow vehicle and making some mods to the trailer so I can take her to Lake Havasu in February for the HPCC. It's about 1400 miles from here. Don't know if I'll be able to dig her out of the snow drifts then but that's the goal.

Here is a (poor) picture of the dual mainsheet setup. The tackle between the cleat and the tiller is for the backstay. The black line in front of the motor is the other half of the backstay bridle. Note the "rubber ducky" (with the stick up its butt) that I'm using as a knob for the motor shifter extension. It keeps me from having to lean out way over the transom to shift when the motor is down.






Henry

[snotnosetommy]

I'd like to try the dual mainsheet idea. Never had a traveler on my M25, only the Crosby rig. Not sure how the dual mainsheet does the same thing as a traveler.

[Freedom77]

Heinzir: Nice mod on the cockpit seat/anchor storage. In Nevada exterior wood doesn't fare so well. You can get sunburned inside your house. What are those big green things on the shore behind the boat?

[kitcat]

I have also had problems getting the mainsheet out of the Camcleat in a hurry, especially with someone sat close by, and like Mastreb decided the best way is to lift the whole block up, in my case I found a long and narrow 4" shackle at my local boat store, and this is about right to do the job. I may experiment with the rope idea though, and try it even higher.

Paul.

[Ryan]

Thanks for all the ideas guys. I appreciate your response. I am learning a lot . Just happy to finally be sailing the "Small Kine".I have another month , maybe two, before the big surf starts rolling in and she goes back on the trailer. We get a lotta wind out here in the summer and I am still learning what she can handle. Does anyone know what the limitations are on the hull when it comes to swell and whitecaps going upwind? Will this boat fall apart if I go upwind in three foot chop for three hours? I want to respect her needs an be safe and I want to go places but we have the easterly trades blowin anywhere frome 15 to 25 all summer .Down wind ok, upwind comin home? Any advice? Thanks Ryan,

[Freedom77]

Sounds like you're in Hawaii.You one kine lucky. We have sailed Freedom for 6-8 hours stretches in 15-20 kt winds with waves breaking over the bow and she held together just fine. As I have suggested in other posts, I put heavy aluminum backing plates behind all deck fitting and behind rudder gudgeons. Overkill, pehaps, but I have never had a failure due to bolts ripping out. Fair Winds and Full Sails....Old Salt.

[andiamo_25]

I also worry about higher seas. My main worry is losing the centreboard somehow. Is there some reinforcement I should do to the trunk, pivot bolt or lock bolt? I just can't stop thinking that two bolts holding that heavy keel are enough in the long run!

Does anyone know the proper lock bolt size? Mine was missing and I have a 1/4 inch stainless hardware store bolt in there but I'd like something a bit beefier I think.

[THE CUSCUS]

The lock down bolt should be a 3/8" diameter bolt. That 5/8" pivot bolt is plenty strong. It would pull through the fiberglass before it would break off. I would be more concerned with the keel falling off due to an elongated pivot hole that has gotten too close to the edge of the keel. Have read on this site that some have experienced a loss of keel, and the bolt was still there!