Running Rigging Line Diameters
Running Rigging Line Diameters
Please help this newbie.
Just bought an 89 M26D and wish to replace the running rigging, install single line reefing, a proper topping lift, bring the lines back to the cockpit, etc.
Have not been able to find published line diameters. The boat is in storage,and I forgot the line sizes that were on it, but I'd like to start assembling a parts list for something to do with the rest of winter.
A few posts mention 5/16" and 3/8" for everything?
If there are standard sizes for the following, please enlighten me.
Main and Jib Halyards
Main and Jib Sheets
Reefing Lines
Topping Lift
Boom Vang
In my limited experience, going a line size larger is nicer on the hand, but can result in extra friction if the blocks and sheaves are wanting a smaller line size.
Certainly do appreciate any and all help with this.
Thanks
Jack
Just bought an 89 M26D and wish to replace the running rigging, install single line reefing, a proper topping lift, bring the lines back to the cockpit, etc.
Have not been able to find published line diameters. The boat is in storage,and I forgot the line sizes that were on it, but I'd like to start assembling a parts list for something to do with the rest of winter.
A few posts mention 5/16" and 3/8" for everything?
If there are standard sizes for the following, please enlighten me.
Main and Jib Halyards
Main and Jib Sheets
Reefing Lines
Topping Lift
Boom Vang
In my limited experience, going a line size larger is nicer on the hand, but can result in extra friction if the blocks and sheaves are wanting a smaller line size.
Certainly do appreciate any and all help with this.
Thanks
Jack
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Kittiwake
- First Officer
- Posts: 255
- Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 7:34 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: BC, Canada
Re: Running Rigging Line Diameters
I have a 26M, but I presume the lines used would be similar. Mine came (stock) with what I measure as 3/8 inch braided nylon everywhere (rudder uphauls & rigging). This is fairly standard material, and easy to replace. It is also comfortable on the hands and nice for tying knots.
In my opinion it is worth keeping in mind that the Mac is a small sailboat: the forces involved in hauling up the sails and controling them are quite modest for a grown man. As a result, in my limited experience, winches are entirely superfluous (the stock cleats are highly appropriate though).
I certainly would not bother obtaining any of the fancier and more expensive types of sail-control lines ... eg. with reduced stretch etc.
I will however be interested to hear what our more sailing-proficient colleagues think.
Kittiwake
In my opinion it is worth keeping in mind that the Mac is a small sailboat: the forces involved in hauling up the sails and controling them are quite modest for a grown man. As a result, in my limited experience, winches are entirely superfluous (the stock cleats are highly appropriate though).
I certainly would not bother obtaining any of the fancier and more expensive types of sail-control lines ... eg. with reduced stretch etc.
I will however be interested to hear what our more sailing-proficient colleagues think.
Kittiwake
- mastreb
- Admiral
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Re: Running Rigging Line Diameters
Ditto Kittiwake. Haven't needed the winches yet, doubt that I will. 3/8s everywhere except the roller furler line. I use finger open rigging gloves when I feel like comfort. Also keeps the beer from freezing my hands (everything needs to be at least dual-purpose IMHO).
- Terry
- Admiral
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- Location: Vancouver, B.C. Canada. '03 26M - New Yamaha 70
Re: Running Rigging Line Diameters
I find it a bit hard to comprehend that a boat would come stock from the dealer with all nylon lines, in fact I believe the lines come from the factory with the boat and I still doubt the factory would use all nylon lines. Braided nylon is for dock lines and rode where stretch is desired. For the control lines, halyards and sheets, braided polyester is the proper line to use. If you are investing money to replace lines then you should invest the money wisely and get the proper lines for each purpose. Size for handling comfort is a good consideration to keep in mind.
- Tomfoolery
- Admiral
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Re: Running Rigging Line Diameters
Blue Water Yachts lists 5/16" Samson LS Yacht Braid, which is polyester over polyester braid, for all halyards and control lines except outhaul and single-line reefing, which is 3/16". I think I have 3/16" for the topping lift, too, but BWY doesn't list it. Doesn't take much to hold that little boom up.
I've found those sizes to be alright, and especially for the halyards, I like a little size for improved 'hand'. I don't use the winches for anything but raising the mast, and as a static capstan if I need some resistance when (for instance) cutting the genoa loose when the wind pipes up. Burned hands would result without that friction assistance, but I don't winch them in. I don't even know if the portside winch works.
My asymmetric spinnaker came with what looks like 5/16 sheets, but they seem pretty heavy to me considering it's a light-air sail. I may go a little smaller this season.
I've found those sizes to be alright, and especially for the halyards, I like a little size for improved 'hand'. I don't use the winches for anything but raising the mast, and as a static capstan if I need some resistance when (for instance) cutting the genoa loose when the wind pipes up. Burned hands would result without that friction assistance, but I don't winch them in. I don't even know if the portside winch works.
My asymmetric spinnaker came with what looks like 5/16 sheets, but they seem pretty heavy to me considering it's a light-air sail. I may go a little smaller this season.
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Kittiwake
- First Officer
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- Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 7:34 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: BC, Canada
Re: Running Rigging Line Diameters
Terry and tkanzler you appear to speak truth: I just went down into the basement and carefully fondled(!) my various lines ... and then dug through my paperwork to find that my original list of included running rigging states 5/16". So 5/16" it is.
As to "Samson LS Yacht Braid, which is polyester over polyester braid", I will defer to your greater familiarity with sailing equipment (although I will grumble a bit and go do an internet search just to be sure, 'cause it feels the same as braided nylon to my hands which are calloused from not using the winches).
Kittiwake
As to "Samson LS Yacht Braid, which is polyester over polyester braid", I will defer to your greater familiarity with sailing equipment (although I will grumble a bit and go do an internet search just to be sure, 'cause it feels the same as braided nylon to my hands which are calloused from not using the winches).
Kittiwake
- Sea Wind
- First Officer
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- Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:45 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Mayo, MD Suzuki DF90hp
Re: Running Rigging Line Diameters
What about a downhaul?
How do you attach a 3/8 or 5/16 line to the top slug? Can you just use a small shackle?
Thanks,
Sea Wind
How do you attach a 3/8 or 5/16 line to the top slug? Can you just use a small shackle?
Thanks,
Sea Wind
Downhaul
Sea Wind
The downhauls I have rigged on other boats consist of a 3/16" line tied with a bowline to the hole in the sail's headboard or the first hank (or mainsail slide) or through the shackle. Even a large sail can be hauled down with a line this light. On a hanked-on headsail the downhaul pretty much stays out of the way, but those for the main, like to find things on the mast to foul on. Keeping the mainsail downhaul snug while sailing and dousing the main helps prevent this from happening.
If the halyards are led aft to the cabin top, there is an additional benefit to rigging a jib downhaul. The headsail can be streamed along the lifelines with the sheet snug and the downhaul wrapped around the sail and lifeline with a couple slipped timber hitches. To hoist the sail, one yanks on the downhaul to free the slip knots and pulls on the halyard without having to leave the cockpit. One can also use the downhaul to secure the sail against the life lines after it is lowered.
Practicing with the slipped timber hitches a few times is a good idea before trying to raise the jib this way the first time.
Hope this is helpful.
Jack
The downhauls I have rigged on other boats consist of a 3/16" line tied with a bowline to the hole in the sail's headboard or the first hank (or mainsail slide) or through the shackle. Even a large sail can be hauled down with a line this light. On a hanked-on headsail the downhaul pretty much stays out of the way, but those for the main, like to find things on the mast to foul on. Keeping the mainsail downhaul snug while sailing and dousing the main helps prevent this from happening.
If the halyards are led aft to the cabin top, there is an additional benefit to rigging a jib downhaul. The headsail can be streamed along the lifelines with the sheet snug and the downhaul wrapped around the sail and lifeline with a couple slipped timber hitches. To hoist the sail, one yanks on the downhaul to free the slip knots and pulls on the halyard without having to leave the cockpit. One can also use the downhaul to secure the sail against the life lines after it is lowered.
Practicing with the slipped timber hitches a few times is a good idea before trying to raise the jib this way the first time.
Hope this is helpful.
Jack
- Sea Wind
- First Officer
- Posts: 402
- Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:45 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Mayo, MD Suzuki DF90hp
Re: Running Rigging Line Diameters
Thanks Jack!jacksm26D wrote:Sea Wind
The downhauls I have rigged on other boats consist of a 3/16" line tied with a bowline to the hole in the sail's headboard or the first hank (or mainsail slide) or through the shackle. Even a large sail can be hauled down with a line this light. On a hanked-on headsail the downhaul pretty much stays out of the way, but those for the main, like to find things on the mast to foul on. Keeping the mainsail downhaul snug while sailing and dousing the main helps prevent this from happening.
If the halyards are led aft to the cabin top, there is an additional benefit to rigging a jib downhaul. The headsail can be streamed along the lifelines with the sheet snug and the downhaul wrapped around the sail and lifeline with a couple slipped timber hitches. To hoist the sail, one yanks on the downhaul to free the slip knots and pulls on the halyard without having to leave the cockpit. One can also use the downhaul to secure the sail against the life lines after it is lowered.
Practicing with the slipped timber hitches a few times is a good idea before trying to raise the jib this way the first time.
Hope this is helpful.
Jack
- c130king
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Re: Running Rigging Line Diameters
Pedro,
My "haul down" is actually the same line as the halyard. The halyard is around 70' long in my case. One end tied to the headboard with a bowline in the normal way and then run up through the sheave on top of the mast and then down to the base of the mast. From there it runs through a couple of turning blocks to run back to the cockpit.
Once in the cockpit the line loops back and is run through a couple more turning blocks to the base of the mast and then up towards the headboard where I tie it to the slug just below the headboard...once again with a simple bowline.
So this is all just one long 70' halyard/haul-down. Pull one way the main is hoisted...pull the other way and the main is doused down into the lazy jacks. This was all set up by the original owner...not my idea...I am not that smart. It works well. No spaghetti in the cockpit...just about 3 foot loop of blue line which I secure on a horn cleat mounted on the forward starboard side of the cockpit.
But 2 lines would work just as well and the haul-down line could easily be smaller diamter...no real stress on this line. But this would mean two seperate lines coming to the cockpit with one or the other always resulting in spaghetti in the cockpit.
And just to avoid confusion I call it a "haul-down". A "down-haul" is normally a method to tension the luff of the main by eitther a line connected to one of the lower slugs or a cringle or if the boom itself is on a track a line can be used to pull it down and tension the luff.
I plan to drive out to Casa Rio on Saturday and trailer König back to my house for month or so of mods/cleaning.
Cheers,
Jim
Sailing on König Website
Sailing on König YouTube Channel
My "haul down" is actually the same line as the halyard. The halyard is around 70' long in my case. One end tied to the headboard with a bowline in the normal way and then run up through the sheave on top of the mast and then down to the base of the mast. From there it runs through a couple of turning blocks to run back to the cockpit.
Once in the cockpit the line loops back and is run through a couple more turning blocks to the base of the mast and then up towards the headboard where I tie it to the slug just below the headboard...once again with a simple bowline.
So this is all just one long 70' halyard/haul-down. Pull one way the main is hoisted...pull the other way and the main is doused down into the lazy jacks. This was all set up by the original owner...not my idea...I am not that smart. It works well. No spaghetti in the cockpit...just about 3 foot loop of blue line which I secure on a horn cleat mounted on the forward starboard side of the cockpit.
But 2 lines would work just as well and the haul-down line could easily be smaller diamter...no real stress on this line. But this would mean two seperate lines coming to the cockpit with one or the other always resulting in spaghetti in the cockpit.
And just to avoid confusion I call it a "haul-down". A "down-haul" is normally a method to tension the luff of the main by eitther a line connected to one of the lower slugs or a cringle or if the boom itself is on a track a line can be used to pull it down and tension the luff.
I plan to drive out to Casa Rio on Saturday and trailer König back to my house for month or so of mods/cleaning.
Cheers,
Jim
Sailing on König Website
Sailing on König YouTube Channel
