Trailer more than 4200 pounds possible? (2 axles)

[kurz]

Hello
Does anyone from you have more load than 4200 pounds with the original alu trailer?

It would make sense to go to 5200pounds / 2500kg if you mount a two axles system.

But as long in the paper will stay max load 4200pounds we would have problems in controls.

How did you solve?

Thank - kurs

[RobertB]

I just finished adding a 2nd axle - but do not consider that I can now load much more than the trailer is originally rated for. The axle is just part of a system and I do not have the data to calculate/certify a higher loading. I added it so I had more flexibility on how I loaded the boat and for the added safety of a second axle.

If you want a higher rated trailer, suggest you replace your current trailer.

[Tomfoolery]

Out of curiosity, is the trailer nameplated at 4200 lb gross? I thought I heard that it was, but I'm not positive about that. My original steel trailer is nameplated 3500 lb gross, though with two axles, it now actually has LESS capacity because the additional axle weighs more, and the gross weight rating hasn't changed.

What I've found interesting, from reading trailer posts on this forum, is that the current aluminium trailer still has 5 on 4-1/2" wheel stud pattern, and the same bearings as most 3500 lb axles, so although the axle may be a bit heavier duty (it's also torsion vs my leaf spring), the bearings aren't. If the , fitted out for normal use, is proportionately heavier than the , then the 'upgraded' axle isn't really upgraded since the whole package is heavier.

I think the axle and bearings in the are undersized for long life and heavy use, and it's entirely possible the trailer is little or no better. But I like having the second axle under my trailer, and I don't mind the extra work or expense in maintaining them.

In some places, like perhaps Australia (based on what I've read here), folks have to have trailers 'certified', though I'm not sure what that exactly means or entails. Here, and in every other state I've lived in (mostly New England), you can even build your own trailer. Just make sure the lights work, and has brakes if required, like any commercial trailer. That's about it. Inspection once a year in NY, but they just check that the lights work, and the take my word for it that the brakes work, since you can see the marks on the disc brake rotors.

If you really want more capacity, rather than a second axle for stability (or any other reason), put your trailer on the market and buy a new 2-axle trailer with a higher capacity. Many folks are just fine with the OEM trailer, and you may be able to get a decent buck for it. If I was just bringing it to/from the marina in the spring and fall and storing the boat on it in the winter, the single-axle OEM trailer would be just fine for me. If travelling like Sumner does (insert jealous emoticon here), I'd consider buying a new one, rated appropriately. Since mine was upgraded by the PO, I'm good for as long as it lasts, which I hope is a long time and many thousands of miles, as one of the selling points of my boat was the upgraded trailer.

So, what was the question again?

[c130king]

When I moved here in 2010 I trailered my boat and was reimbursed for moving it myself. I had to get it weighed and turn in a weight ticket.

With the old steel single-axle trailer, the boat, motor, mast/boom, sails, cushions, all the normal gear I would haul on the trailer...it was 4,200 lbs. And I had no trailer issues that I know of. Did over 3,000 miles this way with no issues.

And many boats are probably heavier than mine due to bigger and better toys, electronics, motors, toilets, extra sails, galley equip (I have none)...

But I now have a new dual-axle aluminum trailer and I think it is good for 6,200 pounds so I know I am good to go and it trailers like a dream.

Just another point of reference.

Cheers,
Jim

[Terry]

I have one of the older original 2003 26M steel trailers and it is rated for 5000# according to the factory metal plate affixed to it. The wheels are a 6 bolt/stud pattern and the rubber is about 10 years old now. I was considering adding a second axle but now second guessing the idea after reading here. Perhaps there is some kind of heavier wide radial tire I can buy, I don't know but I do plan to refurbish my trailer over the next couple months. I need a new wire harness and the brakes should be redone not to mention the bearings and of course the tires are way old now but still lots of tread. I am thinking that cleaning up my old trailer may be a better investment than a new one. It has been sitting on a vacant lot for the past couple years so I am sure it will need a bit of work. Is it worth it?

[Tomfoolery]

6 studs? Sounds like 6 x 5-1/2", and (guessing) 15" wheel. Bearings would be bigger, too - 1.75/1.25 compared to 1.375/1.063 for a 3500 lb axle. That sounds pretty beefy for an trailer.

I'd put new rubber on it, maybe already mounted as the wheels are old (~$180 each, on galvanized wheel, load range D), service the brakes and bearings, and call it good. New lights, but that's a regular thing anyway. Certainly a lot less money than a new trailer.

[mdeane]

Out of curiosity, is the trailer nameplated at 4200 lb gross? I thought I heard that it was, but I'm not positive about that. My original steel trailer is nameplated 3500 lb gross, though with two axles, it now actually has LESS capacity because the additional axle weighs more, and the gross weight rating hasn't changed.

My 2005 26M came with a 2004 steel trailer rated at 4200 lbs.


Marc

[RobertB]

I could argue that your gross rating has increased by the additional weight of the axles/wheels since the ability of the trailer to support weight has not decreased by adding more supporting structure.

[Tomfoolery]

I could argue that your gross rating has increased by the additional weight of the axles/wheels since the ability of the trailer to support weight has not decreased by adding more supporting structure.

You could argue that, but the nameplate hasn't changed, so legally, it's still the same. That's what I was going for.

Not that I care, of course, since there aren't too many boats on original steel trailers that are within the 3500 lb gross, including mine.

[Crikey]

So that begs the point; if you increased the potential rating with a second axle how, in north america (Canada)) would you legally get it re-rated. The Aussies have talked about this this much trepidation, and I know from experience that they are very heavily regulated, but what about here?
It's the potential accident liability I'm concerned with if you've just wiped someone/something out, and it's proved your boats gross weight was over the sticker number. Short of finding a new trailer, is this impossibly expensive to do?
Ross

[RobertB]

Loose the sticker and call it a homebuilt?

[padge]

I have an old style Steel trailer upgraded in the UK to twin axle
It is now plated to 2750kg (6000lb)

[Catigale]

On the trailer I believe the single axle limits the rating to 3500 so adding another axle would lift the rating despite the extra weight. I bet the trailer far similarly.

[Tomfoolery]

On the trailer I believe the single axle limits the rating to 3500 so adding another axle would lift the rating despite the extra weight. I bet the trailer far similarly.

No doubt it would increase the carrying capacity to some degree, though the frame and pole tongue are increasingly at risk without additional reinforcement. I was looking at it from the point of motor vehicle laws, which may be driven by what the manufacturer rated it for. In my younger days, nobody seemed to care what it was rated for, or even if it had a nameplate with s/n and GVWR - I'd register a trailer for what I wanted, and payed accordingly. I've never inquired with NYS DMV as to what would be involved in increasing either the nameplate rating, or the registered GVWR, but I'd be curious to know.

From reading a lot of posts about trailers by our friends down under, it would appear that it's not very easy to change the capacity (legally), and even worse, it's a big deal to go over the original GVWR of the trailer by loading up the boat, especially if there's an accident where the authorities take the rig and weigh it. Insurance issues, too. That's the line of thinking I was using when I commented that adding an axle to a trailer with a 3500 lb GVWR actually decreases the payload capacity, unless you can increase the GVWR.

I'm personally not sweating it, though, and that second axle was a selling point for me. I sold my keelboat and got this trailer boat specifically with long distance (highway) travel in mind, and having less load per 3500 lb axle (about 2000 lb or so per axle) appealed to me, as I believed then, and still believe now, that the OEM axle is rather light. Actually, the axle itself (3 x 2 x 3/16 tube), and the leaf springs (about 5000 lb per pair, based on dimensions and calculations), are pretty stout, but the spindles, bearings and hubs are 3500 lb, so that's that.

[Highlander]

but the bearings and hubs are 3500 lb, so that's that.

Same goes for hubs & bearings if rated for 3500# per axle then doubling then up is going to put u up around 6000# at least & speed rating can be easily increased by just going up a size in rim & tire dia. that will also increase the life span of the wheel bearings if maint. correctly
going to a tandem axle set up will also allow u to decrease tire cap. if only using for short trips but if ur useing for long distance hauling better to stay with the higher rated tire it will absorb higher shock loading "potholes" and run cooler in the hotter climates "less chance of a blow-out"
The hitch actuator is good for 6000# cap. so their is no issue their & the draw bar can be very easily strengthened by either removing the shim plates on either side & then simply adding two peices of flat bar larger than the tongue to either side & welded into possition making more of an I-beam or just increase tube size & thickness or weld another tube underneath various ways to do this
If I convert my Alum Mac trl to a tandem axle I will most likely add two or three extra cross members to stiffen up the trl to decrease flexing this will also strengthen it & increase its load cap.

J
PS also adding shocks will decrease sway to some degree also not sure if this can be done with the torsion suspension but a ph call to UFP would soon answer that question