A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory

[Sumner]

....I was contemplating taking the brake shoes out of the drums completely, since I will not be doing any more over-the-road trailering than the one trip to the marina. I am concerned about leaving the brakes in the drums to sit there and rust for long periods of time, thinking it might cause us a brake lock-up as described in this thread. Am I being overly concerned, or is the idea of taking the brake shoes out of the drums worth the effort??

I think that is a good plan. I"d take a number of pictures and make a drawing and pull the springs and actuators and other parts. Then maybe a thick layer of grease on some of it, especially the pivot points for the shoes. Then check after a time or two in the water to make sure the grease is a good idea.

When I do brakes I usually do them one side at a time so that I can see where everything goes as they get complicated. Thus the reason for good pictures and/or drawing.

I got your PM and sent you one back, thanks,

Sum

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Our MacGregor S Pages

Mac-Venture Links

[Tomfoolery]

Or just pull the whole backing plate out, since you'll have the drum off anyway. New double-lip seals and repacked (or replaced) bearings, and you're good for another 100k miles.



It's cheaper to buy an assembled unit than it is to rebuild the old stuff, should you ever want to go back to having brakes, and you then have the choice of free-backing or single-servo styles. Or disc brakes, which is what I was adding to the other axle in this pic, after I smoked all the brakes on both axles just trying to get this new (to me) trailer home with my new (to me) on it.

[Sumner]

Or just pull the whole backing plate out, since you'll have the drum off anyway. ..

...

Yep that is a better idea than what I suggested,

Sum

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Our MacGregor S Pages

Mac-Venture Links

[TAW02]

Last weekend, I met a fellow Mac'er (Hartflat) and his Admiral at MDR.
Their boatless 07 aluminum trailer had the left wheel (only) lock up and just drag/skid along the parking lot .

Long story, but the tidbit is: If this happens to you, and you have eliminated all other logical reasons for a frozen wheel,
try tapping the disc brake caliper semi-lightly with a hammer.

The offending puck retracted, the wheel unfroze, and all was well in the world.

The BoatUS trailer guy suggested this on the phone, and it worked a charm.

Had the same thing happen to me! Turns out it wasn't the caliper at fault at all. It was a small ridge of rust surrounding the brake pad that held the wheel from turning. And this usually happens when the trailer sits for a few months. Believe it or not this little ridge of rust surrounding the brake pad will hold the rotor in place with no mercy. I was able to use a large screwdriver and a hammer to pop the brake pad free (or jar it enough) to let loose of the rotor.

Tom

[vizwhiz]

Good deal...thanks for the ideas...I think it will be worth not having to wonder about the brakes each time I plan an outing...
If I ever decide to start trailering on a regular basis, I'll have to re-think the trailer and brakes and such anyway.
I appreciate all the input!

[Catigale]

I would pop the drum off, back the adjusters all the way off, and grease them up so they stay free. Lock out the brakes with a large nut up front so you don't move the brakes in this condition.

I agree if you do to the trouble to remove the backing plates, replace with disks, either plated ones for fresh water or SS for salt.....brace yourself for the cost o n the SS ones....

[Sumner]

...Lock out the brakes with a large nut up front so you don't move the brakes in this condition....

That is a good point, You don't want the surge coupler moving and compressing the master cylinder on the tongue if all of that is working.

I think I would go back to pulling the parts and leaving the backing plate on with the wheel cylinder on it. That way the lines would still be full and and attached.

If the brakes don't work now then I'd pull them and as has been suggested don't put money into them later and go with disc brakes. They work great, are easier to service, and should need service a lot less as you don't have all of those parts to rust up and quit working.

If the brakes do work and you leave the wheel cylinders in and lock the surge out on the tongue when you finally put things back I would purge the lines with new fluid.

Good luck,

Sum

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Our MacGregor S Pages

Mac-Venture Links

[Catigale]

Sums post reminded me..if you pull the brake system, you want to pull the master cylinder too. If you leave it dry, it will rust up and add to any refit bill

I would take off the MC, close off the reservoir with a bleeder screw or like, and fill it with fresh new brake fluid for storage.

[Tomfoolery]

But do inspect it before going to all that trouble. When I stripped my brake system off, it was partly because the master cylinder was rusty inside. That, and all the drum brakes were frozen and burned. Wheel bearings were in bad shape. Most of the lines were old, and the one on the tongue was smashed from someone blocking under it for the winter. It would have cost just as much to rebuild it all as it would have to just replace it all in-kind, including a new surge coupler with solenoid lockout, new drums with integral hubs, bearings, seals, backing plates with wheel cylinders, springs, shoes, etc., and new brake lines for two axles.

I opted for disc brakes on one axle for the same money. Brand new brakes from stem to stern for just over $400. Took some effort to grind off the welds holding the original coupler, but that's only because I no longer have a torch.

I guess after 12 years, the old system was due for retirement.

[Sumner]

...I opted for disc brakes on one axle for the same money. Brand new brakes from stem to stern for just over $400. Took some effort to grind off the welds holding the original coupler, but that's only because I no longer have a torch. ...

Definitely the way to go if the old brake system is at all questionable or needs repair. Do it and don't look back,

Sum

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Our MacGregor S Pages

Mac-Venture Links

[vizwhiz]

This is all great advice...and thanks!
I'm thinking that after a year or so of frequently dipping the trailer in the salt water at the marina, the whole trailer will be due for replacement, not just the brakes.
Had a friend admit to an inexpensive way to protect the trailer, though, which was to paint a light coat of marine grease on all the exposed parts. There are parts I won't be able to reach, he pointed out, but he said it would go a long way towards preserving the trailer. I have to say, it's something I'm planning to try.