Salt water trailers

A forum for discussing issues relating to trailers and towing MacGregor sailboats.
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DaveB
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Salt water trailers

Post by DaveB »

I bought a New Aluminum Trailer 3 years ago. I wash with fresh water every trip.
Problem is I now have to replace both axels (End 4 inch plates that brakes are fasten to were so corroded there was no strength to hold them and the joint that fastens to the gal. axel) and springs due to leaving the trailer at parking lot for 2-3 days at a time and also my duel water sprinklers were hitting the boat and trailer while parked in back yard.
Axels are $200 each and Springs $25 each plus fastners.
This will cost me $600 ,doing the work myself.
I recomend anyone launching their boat in salt water to cary a 3 gal. fresh water sprayer to wash down the ends of axels and springs after launch. Also wash down intire boat and trailer when you get home.
Also would recomend pulling tires and do a complete washdown and spray Cold Galvinized spray on ends and bolts.
Save your trailer and pull the wheels off once a year and do a clean/paint . :)
Dave
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fishheadbarandgrill
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Re: Salt water trailers

Post by fishheadbarandgrill »

Good advice. I was doing that and have gotten lazy. A good lesson to get back in the habit.

Bob
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mastreb
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Re: Salt water trailers

Post by mastreb »

Gosh, I think I'd rather replace the axle every three years. :P
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Phil M
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Re: Salt water trailers

Post by Phil M »

Does aluminum corrode faster in salt water than the standard Mac trailer would? After only 3 years?

Phil M :macm:
Benmcgov
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Re: Salt water trailers

Post by Benmcgov »

I think a aluminum trailer should do a lot better than the standard metal mac trailer.
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ROAD Soldier
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Re: Salt water trailers

Post by ROAD Soldier »

Phil M wrote:Does aluminum corrode faster in salt water than the standard Mac trailer would? After only 3 years?

Phil M :macm:
I have a galvanized twin axle trailer and replace all hardware every two years thanks to saltwater. This year I finally got around to doing a brakes job that have never worked since I bought the boat in 2008. The lines drums and all hardware were shot and cost me $1150 worth of work done by a professional trailer shop because I couldn't even get the drums off. I do have bearing buddies that grease the axle but it is still a good idea to pull them once a year and hand pack them, if for no other reason than to see what is going on in there. No matter what type of trailer you have aluminum, galvanized, or the cheap mac trailer there will be a price paid for launching in saltwater. For two years I had my boat at a slip in the Marina and as part of the monthly payment they would hoist your boat off the trailer and launch it that way. I never had the patients to wait that long so I didn't take advantage of that service. I wish I had now. Maybe we can get relentless to make us a stainless steel trailer and see how well that holds up in saltwater.
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mastreb
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Re: Salt water trailers

Post by mastreb »

Phil M wrote:Does aluminum corrode faster in salt water than the standard Mac trailer would? After only 3 years?

Phil M :macm:
Aluminum is far less subject to oxidation than steel, and salt water does not promote aluminum oxidation the way it promotes steel oxidation. However, in a steel-aluminum joint, the aluminum will corrode due to galvanic corrosion first because it's quite a bit less noble. So in a trailer made of aluminum and steel, the aluminum will corrode at steel fastener joints, and the steel will oxidize (rust). It's kind of the best of both worlds.

The problem is that much of the trailer, including all the parts that people have trouble with, are steel. The wheels are steel, the hubs are steel, the bearings are steel, and all of the fasteners are steel. The tongue and drawbar are steel too, and that bar is not painted on the inside. I used auto frame protector on mine to put a coat of something on it.

Probably large zincs bolted to the aluminum next to the wheels would help a lot to reduce aluminum corrosion. They won't hurt in any case. But I suspect that most of the problems we have are good old fashioned rust that zincs aren't going to help with.

This list on Wikipedia shows the (reverse) order in which you would expect corrosion to occur in a bi-metal reaction in seawater. Lower on the list will corrode first. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_series
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ROAD Soldier
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Re: Salt water trailers

Post by ROAD Soldier »

mastreb wrote:
Phil M wrote:Does aluminum corrode faster in salt water than the standard Mac trailer would? After only 3 years?

Phil M :macm:
This list on Wikipedia shows the (reverse) order in which you would expect corrosion to occur in a bi-metal reaction in seawater. Lower on the list will corrode first. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_series
Yep any other Aircraft Mechanic out there can attest to the never ending fight to prevent corrosion on magnesium aircraft parts. So looking at the list when is Roger going to start making boats out of Carbon Fiber :?:
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Phil M
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Re: Salt water trailers

Post by Phil M »

mastreb wrote:
Aluminum is far less subject to oxidation than steel, and salt water does not promote aluminum oxidation the way it promotes steel oxidation. However, in a steel-aluminum joint, the aluminum will corrode due to galvanic corrosion first because it's quite a bit less noble. So in a trailer made of aluminum and steel, the aluminum will corrode at steel fastener joints, and the steel will oxidize (rust). It's kind of the best of both worlds.

The problem is that much of the trailer, including all the parts that people have trouble with, are steel. The wheels are steel, the hubs are steel, the bearings are steel, and all of the fasteners are steel. The tongue and drawbar are steel too, and that bar is not painted on the inside. I used auto frame protector on mine to put a coat of something on it.

I am seriously looking into buying a new tandem axle trailer. I thought aluminum would not have any rust problems, but apparently that is not the case.
I have read in this forum warnings about upgrading the standard Mac trailer. There is a saying "Don't throw good money after bad." Hence, the search for a trailer has started.

Phil M :macm:
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DaveB
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Re: Salt water trailers

Post by DaveB »

Phil,
My Aluminum Trailer is in excellent condition except were the ends of axel that has a plate (not hot dip galv.) that holds the brakes and some Galv. bolts rusted thru and springs on port side that was being sprayed with sprinkler system for lawn. This water is called recycle water from the city and is corrsive.
My Starbord side is ok with light rust.
I deceided to replace both axels and springs and bolts. Cost for materials is $538. I will do all the work.
Aluminum Trailers are great and if the sprinkler hadn't hit the trailer it would have lasted another 2-3 years doing the same wash down after pulling trailer.
I also go on a 3-5 day cruise and leave boat trailer on city parking that also gets sprayed with sprinklers from city duel water.
Anything that is hot dip Galv. and aluminum frame on my traler should last at least 15 years in salt water.
Axels cannot be hot dip at the weld ends, this is were you want to make sure you cold dip Galv., spray with heavey water proof spray every year or less.
I blame this rust for my lack of changeing sprinklers and not lubeing the currect parts in a timely way when needed.
Dave
Phil M wrote:Does aluminum corrode faster in salt water than the standard Mac trailer would? After only 3 years?

Phil M :macm:
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kurz
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Axel inside...

Post by kurz »

Hello
I have the new :macm: aluminium Trailer with the Axle that ist just painted black.

So I can imagine to wash the brake an the rest. But what will happen, when the salt water gets into the axle? What is inside the axle? Is it just gummi/rubber or a spring?

How can I get out the salt water?

Is it possible to drill a holw into the axle to put in fresh water?

Thanks for replies - kurz
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cmagnus4
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Re: Salt water trailers

Post by cmagnus4 »

Don't panic! It can hardly be worse than driving on a winter road with snow and salt spray. Most cars survive this treatment in northern Europe. :) So why shouldn't the trailer do it?
Claes
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DaveB
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Re: Axel inside...

Post by DaveB »

Any V shaped axel will have a hole at bottom of V for drainage, spray fresh water inside both ends. I didn't have any rust on or inside my Galvinized axels, only at the ends were they couldn't galvinize and used Cold Galv. Paint that doesnt last.
The 4 inch plate is for bolting on Brakes and that to is Paint. It cost $10 more for this plate on a new axel and it's your option to put the brakes on.
I just completed both New Axels and used liquid Tape to cover all nuts and bolts. I also just removed the 50bf Honda and replaced the Tilt motor as the outside caseing was rusted. Upon removal I actually lightly taped the side of caseing and opened a 1 inch hole to the motor, the rust just fell out. It wouldn't have made another trip.
Dave
kurz wrote:Hello
I have the new :macm: aluminium Trailer with the Axle that ist just painted black.

So I can imagine to wash the brake an the rest. But what will happen, when the salt water gets into the axle? What is inside the axle? Is it just gummi/rubber or a spring?

How can I get out the salt water?

Is it possible to drill a holw into the axle to put in fresh water?

Thanks for replies - kurz
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