Steering disconnect

[Crikey]

I'd done an earlier posting response to Cmagnus4 for a BWY quick disconnect linkage, which I'd similarly installed like most of you. Main difference is I haven't used it in the water yet due to other items I've been trying to deal with, connected with steering but one thing I noticed just a couple of days ago was the new tube arm hitting, and stopping all further rudder movement, on the front of the motor when it was retracted fully. I have a new Suzuki DF60A, which is the culprit in this case and I don't think there is any solution to this short of limiting the full-up position. I'll have to find out later if this results in me dragging my tail in the water when under sail, and come up with plan B - whatever that may be (!!?!!) Don't get me wrong, this is still a vast improvement over stock - which was nothing on my 2010M.

Another item with the arm installation was a very slight difference in its radius dimension. Not enought to cause the contact with the motor, but sufficient to slightly rub one edge of the hole where it exits into the well area when connected to the motor. I could enlarge this or simply let it wear wider but either way it's a shabby hole! Has anyone spotted a stainless fitting ( or otherwise) that would add some fit & finish to this location?

Ross

[paj637]

I made a steering disconnect device for my 2006 with a piece of heavy aluminum flat bar. It works great but I did take a small bite out of my port rudder trailing edge when I was backing out of skinny water and turning to starboard.

Lesson learned: Steering disconnect is only for under sail. Always hook up the steering when manuvering with the engine.

[c130king]

J,

Thanks for the photos. So to summarize.

The rod which connects the motor to the steering arm coming out of the port side of the engine well may need to be shortened.

Attaching to the engine tang is nut/bolt (looks pretty straight forward).

Installing C-Bracket just have to get a socket (probably with extension) underneath to install the nut on the underside (and need someone to keep a wrench on the bolt head up above).

And a new steering arm, with a quick-disconnect ball attached, comes with the kit. This I presume is a simple replacement for the stock steering arm.

I have sent an email to BWY informing them of my desire to order...waiting for them to get back with me to finalize the order.

Thanks again,
Jim

[1st Sail]

Jim,
You are spot on.
The rod which connects the motor to the steering arm coming out of the port side of the engine well may need to be shortened.
* both ends of the rod are threaded. Loosen the lock nut and rotate the quick disconnect at both ends to adjust length. I centered mine to the control arm and rudders first (didn't know any better), with that length set locked the QD with the lock nut. Detached from the steering arm and then pivoted the C bracket until it mated with the QD. Left it attached and bolted the C Bracket in place with 5200.

Attaching to the engine tang is nut/bolt (looks pretty straight forward).
*my Etec has a tang dead center which is threaded. Screwed the QD ball flush to the tang and then locked in place with nut and lock washer (supplied). I hung QD ball under the tang (upside down) on mine (Etec) so when connected to the C Bracket I have full verticle movement. I would think your Merc 40 4S would be about the same size as my E50 so thing should go well.

Installing C-Bracket just have to get a socket (probably with extension) underneath to install the nut on the underside (and need someone to keep a wrench on the bolt head up above).
* open end box end wrench will do IIRC 9/16 no extension needed. The bolt on your M is set in 5200 or same. It is a phillips pan head and washer with open access on the port side of the bunk next to the well moulding. I removed both nuts and punched it thru. You will need someone to hold the bolt with a phillips head while you remove the second nut next to the hull. Or you can grab it gently with a pliers and spin it off without chewing the treads.
On the C bracket install I got lucky put a box end on the bolt head and crawled in and wrenched it down very slowly and it didn't fall off as usuall. Bring a buddy.

And a new steering arm, with a quick-disconnect ball attached, comes with the kit. This I presume is a simple replacement for the stock steering arm.
* 9/16 socket perfered, you will need two wrenches one for the bolt head and one for the nut when you spin it off.

I have sent an email to BWY informing them of my desire to order...waiting for them to get back with me to finalize the order.
*They have been great for me ordered from both Cheryl and Gail.

Regarding the rubbing of the steering arm and fiberglass. I'm thinking making a bearing/seal out of high molecular weight polyurathane and bolting it to the side of the well where the arm exits the well. I thought someone found a expandable rubber seal like those on a hydraulic piston arm. Need to search the mods again. Sorry for the ADD hijack.

Uflex Rotech arrived today so on to greater things.

[Globalhobo]

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